Wireless Replacement for Drayton RTE thermostat

[blytha]

Hi,

I have an Drayton RTE thermostat in my lounge and want to replace it with a RF stat. I've attached two pictures one of the inner wiring and one of the wiring diagram.

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• blytha
• 1 Aug 2013
• 1

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• blytha
• 1 Aug 2013
• 1

Wire 1 – Live from fused spur
Wire 2 – Heat Load / demand - only connected when CH timer on
Wire 3 – Cool Load / satisfied
Wire 4 – Neutral

I have found a Salus RT300RF and would like to use that. Can anyone whether there is an issue not having the Cool/satisfied feed?

Wiring would be:
Normally Open - RTE 2
COM - Cross linked to RTE 1
Live - RTE 1
Neutral - RTE 4

If the Salus is not appropriate then do you have any suggestions for a replacement at a reasonable cost. The Drayton Digistat RF is 3 times the price!

Also for my info what is the accelerator circuit for in the Drayton RTE?

I'd appreciate any advice/help.

Thanks in advance

 

[ianmcd]

Yes you can use the Salus or any other for that matter but Im not sure you realise how an RF stat works , you install the receiver (the part that gets wired to the boiler, next to the boiler and the room stat with the display is battery powered and doesnt have any wires, or do you intend to install the receiver unit where your old thermostat was and put the new thermostat somewhere else ?

 

[blytha]

Hi,

I know exactly how an rf thermostat works thanks, and yes I was going to put the receiver where the old thermostat was.

What I was concerned about was the satisfied wire not being used by the salus, which only has a single switched contact. I.e there is no output when the thermostat has reached temperature.

Thanks anyway for the response

 

[emerylloyd]

You're fitting the thermostat receiver where the old thermostat was? Instead of fitting the thermostat where the old thermostat was?

Drayton is 3 times the price as it has a reputation of 3 times better and I'd imagine build quality/usability close to 3 times better.

Accelerator is how the room stat works to heat a room more accurately. The accelerator resistor is connected to the bi-metal strip in the thermostat (the temp sensing bit) and cuts it out prior to room being heated to desired temperature. Its then disabled so the boiler/zone valve can be clicked on/off in short bursts to heat the room comfortably. Basically allowing any heat left in the rad to be utilised before heating it more! An early sign of energy efficiency.

 

[blytha]

Thanks for the response.

yes, I want to fix the receiver where the old thermostat was and then I can put the thermostat in any room.

Thanks for the note about the accelerator something like my assumption, but well explained.

I did not want to spend £100 on the replacement, any ideas anyone on the original question of whether the Salus is appropriate?

cheers,

Anthony

 

[emerylloyd]

Hi Anthony,

I see what you're saying, but please remember when placing room thermostat: not near a heat emitter, not in a room with a thermostatic radiator valve (they can conflict) and in the coolest part of the house which in theory requires the most heat, unless you specifically want it in a certain room through your own reasons.

You can wire the receiver unit via the wiring centre if this is located in a more discrete area?

The Salus will be appropriate from what I've seen in this post. Good luck.

 

[blytha]

Thanks for the response 'emerylloyd'.

I'm going to use the current location of the thermostat as the base for the receiver, as then I won't need to fill the old wall box or run new wires to the Y valve controller in the airing cupboard.

I still have a concern over the satisfied wire from the current drayton thermostat. The new Salus receiver does not have a feed to say that the thermostat temperature has been reached?

Any thoughts I may just end up going for the Drayton, even though the receiver is ugly, just because it has the satisfied connection.

 

[emerylloyd]

Where in your house is your thermostat currently located as seen in the picture?

The Salus thermostat will send a signal to the receiver unit, which will liven up the COM to start the process of the switch lives turning on all relevant parts of the system, boiler, motorised valve etc. Once the Salus thermostat is satisfied according to its onboard temp sensing kit, it will send a signal to break the circuit between the COM and LIVE in the receiver. This will turn everything off. Unless I am mistaken of course, I'm sure someone will jump in and help.

Me not seeing your house, obviously, so please forgive my ignorance; put the receiver into the cupboard and connect it, using at most 1m flex, then place the thermostat over the existing hole once the existing cable is disconnected. The idea of wireless stat is not to walk around with it, IMO of course.

 

[blytha]

Hi and thanks for the response,

The issue is that I want to move the thermostat because it is in our front room, which is one of the warmest in the house, and that means that the heating is turned off even though the rest of the house is colder. I want to put the thermostat itself in the hall or landing.

The current Drayton system is connected so that the satisfied line is live when the thermostat is in the off position, this then aids the motor controller when deciding what it should be doing, if the water heating is still on or not, thus moving the y-valve. I just wonder whether the satisfied return is required (i.e does it provide a feed for the water call if the water is on and the heating has switched off)
Here is a diagram of a my set up.

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• blytha
• 2 Aug 2013
• 1

cheers

 

[emerylloyd]

blytha, I understand now, can see why you're doing it.

I presume you've looked at the Y-plan wiring diagram already for the Salus? It just seems as though the only way is to wire it from the wiring centre direct, hence making (unfortunately for aesthetics) the Drayton the best bet to wire it as you wish.

1 - L
4 - N
2 - COM
3 - NO

That seems to be the only way to wire it in place of existing stat, presuming that the wiring diagram Salus shows matches Drayton/ACL, that you would have to check first.

Tricky one! Touch wood somebody who's done this exact swap can shed some light.

 

[blytha]

I've gone for the drayton to prevent possible issues...

cheers,

Anthony