Wiring 3 motorised valves to a relay

[fdiddy]

Hi all

I currently have 2 motorised valves that are wired to a plug and working perfectly via a WiFi switch.
These 2 valves control the downstairs and upstairs rads.

I also have a hot water circuit that has a motorised valve but is always manually open as it's currently not powered.

I would like to connect all three motorised valves to a WiFi 4 channel switch as per image below, but not sure on how to wire it, especially whether live or neutral goes to common or normally open. Any advice welcome

 

[jj4091]

I don't think you should be trying to do this with such a limited understanding of electrics, especially looking at the plug connected to the extension lead. Call an electrician.

 

[picasso]

You would have to wire the sonoff to the cylinder stat but as said you seem out of your depth.

 

[fdiddy]

You would have to wire the sonoff to the cylinder stat but as said you seem out of your depth.

I don't need to wire to the cyclinder stat, I just need to power the valve.

 

[picasso]

Your reply kinda proves my point.

 

[CBW]

I don't need to wire to the cyclinder stat, I just need to power the valve.

So how do you currently control the hot water temperature? How would the valve know when to close?

 

[fdiddy]

The boiler is on timer everyday to "top up" the hot water in the cylinder. The honeywell on the right is on the return of cylinder,and the orkli beside it is on the return upstairs rads.since the honeywell has no power it is manually open all the time.i essentially have no control of the cylinder circuit... hope this explains the issue

 

[picasso]

Why not join the 21st century and get proper control over your heating and hot water? The sonoff is a half @rsed approach to what your trying to achieve.

 

[fdiddy]

When i moved in the heating system wasnt set up the best, so trying to use wifi switches to control the valves. i have a sonoff controlling the pump and boiler with 0 issues.It might be unorthodox as per usual plumbing standards but it works well for me...
That being said any advice on my original ask on how to wire the N/O & Common on the relay?

 

[SpecialK]

Link all the commons to your live feed. The feed to the valve then gets power from the NO. Neutrals are linked elsewhere.

 

[picasso]

I was going to post no one will help you bypass the cylinder stat but I could be wrong.

 

[fdiddy]

Link all the commons to your live feed. The feed to the valve then gets power from the NO. Neutrals are linked elsewhere.

Thank you - Can you expand on the below

Neutrals are linked elsewhere.

 

[SpecialK]

Thank you - Can you expand on the below

In a suitable junction box?

 

[stem]

The Sonoff is just a series of switches. [four in the version you have] If you simply want to use it to turn something on/off then it's wired as below The 230V supply is shown on the left below and the device being powered via the wires on the right.

I've just installed one of these for a friend in his summer house for the lights because he didn't want visible wires running on his timber walls to a series of light switches. Basic on/off switching is really what it's for. As has been said proper heating controls with a thermostat would be better for your application.

Below shows the wiring for the first switch. The others follow the same pattern. COM goes to the L supply and NO (Normally Open) is the contact that powers the device. [NC isn't used for this application] There should also be a separate earth connection terminal for any devices that require it.

The Sonoff unit should be mounted inside a suitable enclosure because it has exposed live terminals. You also need to secure and clamp the cables firmly and make sure that only the sheath is visible outside of the enclosure. [This worries me looking at the state of the wires from the plug in your photo which has exposed wires.]

So something similar to this:

They are also quite tricky to wire, even for those of us that do it regularly. The terminals are very close together and it would be easy to create a short circuit. Each wire must be inserted into its terminal so that there isn't any exposed copper on show that could touch the wire next to it. especially difficult where there are two wires in the same terminal.

 

[fdiddy]

Excellent advice - thank you. Is there a neutral output required here. for the Ground, each motorised valve has one - anything else needed here?