Wiring details for stand-alone hi-lo PIR

IM

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Hi there.

I have replaced a hi-lo PIR for a porch light, and obviously not done the like-for-like wiring swap I thought I had.

The unit is supposed to come on dimmed at dusk, and then light up to full power when someone walks up the path - with the option of having it always on by flicking a switch indoors.

At the moment, it only comes on when the internal switch is flicked. I need to establish whether the PIR is shot or if I've done something wrong.

I have what I thought was a simple enough set-up with no rogue, random coloured wires. i.e. Neutral, live and earth from internal circuit/switch, and neutral, live and earth to the lamp unit - and 'N', 'E', L, L1, L2 connections within the PIR.

All assistance gratefully received.
 
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Are you sure the neutral line earth combo is what you have?

At the switch do you have a terminal block containing the neutral?

Have you tested that you have line, neutral and earth voltages at the light?

Are you sure that the copper is properly connected to the terminals and you haven't got the insulation trapped.

Not sure why you need to touch the PIR connections.
 
OK didn't quite load up as shown on my PC, but should be reasonably self explanatory.

The box on the right hand side is the switch (with a connector block) and the N,E, L, L1, L2 the connectors within the PIR unit (I've not shown them, but obviously there are various wires on the other side of the connectors, for the PIR itself)
 
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With that set up you'll have to leave the light switch on to have the light working - you'd need to supply a permanent live in order to get it to work the way you want.
 
Not necessarily, that is normal. It is supposed to be on all the time - but only lighting when it is dark.

What does the L2 connection do?
 
Not necessarily, that is normal. It is supposed to be on all the time - but only lighting when it is dark.

What does the L2 connection do?

yes, but how on earth is that set up going to work without the switch set to on?

It's hard to tell if the OP is expecting something that's impossible with the existing wiring, or referring to a feature of some PIRs whereby the output can be overridden by flicking the supply off and then on a couple of times in quick succession.

IM, what happens if you turn on the switch and then leave the PIR to settle for 5 minutes? Also, I assume you have adjusted the dawn/dusk level if necessary?
 
Inevitably, I can't find the instructions that came with the PIR (my money's on a certain 6 year old always on the look-out for paper to draw on....)

The one I had was from Wickes, though they don't seem to sell it anymore. I've found these instructions online for a very similar looking unit from Screwfix - http://www.free-instruction-manuals.com/pdf/p3421232.pdf

Don't know if they'll help or cause further confusion...
 
At the moment, it only comes on when the internal switch is flicked
I don't mean to be patronising but you aren't expecting it to work when switched off, are you?

Edit -
Please clarify, is this hi-lo lamp a complete unit with attached and integral PIR?
If it is I don't see what you could have done wrong merely connecting L, N & E.
Therefore, perhaps you should assume it is faulty and return it.
 
IM if you have the instructions make sure you have followed the walk test procedure and the set up for automatic operation. Sound like you have not done one of these.

As already highlighted the light switch must be on for the pir to operate the way it is currently wired.
 
All

Thanks for the replies - and feel free to patronize, I won't take offence!

With the current set up, if the internal switch is on, the light comes on and stays on - and if the switch is off, it doesn't come on at all.

i.e. If I try to do the walk test when the internal switch is off, nothing happens. If I try to do it when the internal switch is on, I never get the chance because the bulb stays on.

From what I remember, the instructions (which I still cannot locate) made reference to an option to have an over-ride, but didn't mention the 'switch on then off again' type instructions from the Screwfix version from the link.

I know I've had a hi-lo PIR in the past where it worked without the switch being 'on'. In my simplistic understanding, effectively this was a two-way set-up, with either the PIR being in control when the switch was off (the light coming on at low illumination at dusk) or the switch over-riding when it was flicked.

I've also had ones where you had to do the on-off-one-off thing to get the light to stay on, and not have to leg it back up the garden and wave at the sensor.
 
All

Thanks for the replies - and feel free to patronize, I won't take offence!

With the current set up, if the internal switch is on, the light comes on and stays on - and if the switch is off, it doesn't come on at all.
That would be because there is no power to the PIR.

i.e. If I try to do the walk test when the internal switch is off, nothing happens. If I try to do it when the internal switch is on, I never get the chance because the bulb stays on.
On the walk test the light will stay active for 5 seconds if you have followed the instructions and turned everything down to the minimum.


I know I've had a hi-lo PIR in the past where it worked without the switch being 'on'.
That cannot happen because with the set up you have when the switch is off you have no power.

Read the instructions you have linked to and follow walk test etc to the letter with the switch on!
 
To start from scratch -

After the lamp has been switched off for several minutes,
switch it on - the lamp should light. It will stay on for a while - could be up to 20 minutes - depending on how it is adjusted - leave it switched on.
Then it should go off and into automatic mode - in this case, dim when it gets dark and bright if it detects movement.
 

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