Wiring Difficulties Replacing Very Early Drayton Digistat

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I am trying to update an original wired Mk1 Drayton Digistat that I fitted myself as a replacement for an analogue Satchwell (or I think it could possibly have been a Honeywell) room stat in either 1993 or 1996 with a HoneyWell Chronthem CM907 Roomstat. This is the very earliest LCD digital stat from Drayton before they had several models in their digital stat range. The boiler is an oil fired boiler on an old style gravity feed system where the hot water circuit is always also heated up when the central heating is running although the hot water circuit can be heated up with the central heating circuit switched off.

In any event when I fitted the very old Drayton Digistat 15 or more years ago I was faced with a 5 wire set up on the back of the previous room stat with red, black, blue, green and yellow wires. This is because the room stat (previously I think a Satchwell) originally controlled a driven motorised valve for the downstairs heating circuit while the upstairs circuit originally had a motorised driven valve controlled by a timeclock. However the downstairs valve had failed some years earlier and the system was then modified so that the room stat now only switched on or off the heating pump. More recently the upstairs mechanical Satchwell time clock became intolerably noisy and rather than being replaced was simply disconnected by the boiler servicing engineer and the upstairs circuit valve left permanently open.

In the mid 1990s when I removed the Satchwell stat and fitted the Drayton Digistat I blanked off the green and yellow wires and connected the remaining three wires (red, black and blue) to the Drayton Digistat. However when I came to try to change the stat today the wiring to the four terminals was shielded with black electrical tape and I may not have accurately noted down which wire was connected to which terminal but definitely the Red wire was connected to Terminal 1/Live and I thought the Black wire was connected to terminal 3/Sat and the blue wire to terminal 4/N but possibly the Black wire was connected to Terminal 2/Dem but a wire was definitely connected to terminal 4/Neutral and I thought it was Blue unless the Black and Blue were the other way round.....

Trying to cut a long story short after reading up on this forum about the dangers of wrongly connecting the Neutral wire to the new CM907 and blowing it up I became scared about the risk of destroying it and so decided to put the old Drayton Digistat back for now. I hasten to add that whenever I was working on the wiring on the back of the stat I always turned off the mains supply since I acknowledge that I am not a qualified electrician, even though in theory a room stat's wiring is not much more complicated than a wall light switch.

Anyhow putting the wiring back on the Drayton Digistat I consistently kept the red wire on Terminal 1/Live but as I was having no luck making the room stat switch on or off the heating pump tried a number of combinations of the blue and black wires on terminals 2 (Dem), 3 (Sat) and 4(N). A couple of these combinations blew the 3 Amp fuse of the wall switch controlling the power to the central heating programmer and heating pump next to the boiler in the kitchen (the room stat is in the living room) and other combinations did not blow the fuse and the programmer functioned as normal but throughout the boiler would now only operate in response to demand from the hot water circuit and after the boiler had reached temperature turning up the Digistat to a level that should have caused the central heating pump to operate and make the boiler fire up failed to do so. The Digistat made the usual on/off clicks but the pump belligerently refused to cut in and then make the boiler fire as the water temperature in the boiler dropped.

Finally after trying various three wire combinations (always keeping the red wire on L but with Blue and Black on a variety of 2, 3 and 4 ) I made the probably rash decision to connect just the red wire to 1 and the black wire to terminal 3/Sat. When I turned the mains back on after this there was a nasty pop from the Digistat and a burning smell and its clear that I have fried it as all it now shows is CHECK BATTERY and replacing the battery does not help.

I accept that I may well need to get in a professional central heating engineer or electrician to finish the job but can anyone clarify whether the fact that a combination of the red wire to terminal 1/Live and just the Black wire to 3/Sat burned out the digistat possibly suggests that the Black wire is in fact the Neutral wire or is the fact that I attached the black wire to terminal 3 without also having the Blue Neutral wire attached to terminal 4 responsible for the burn out incident? I had previously had the blue and black wires attached to terminals 3 and 4 together in both possible orders and neither of these combinations burned out the Digistat.

If I go to B&Q or another DIY shed I can clearly buy some sort of mains wiring tester but other than establishing that the red wire is the live wire should I also be able to definitely establish which of the black and blue wires is Neutral and should therefore not be used with the CM907? I assume that the green and yellow wires I taped out 15 years ago are not needed as the old Drayton Digistat has been using just the red, blue and black wires to operate for all these years with no problems other than a battery change every couple of years.

I should add this room stat is on my 75 year old widowed mother's heating and hot water system so I am now severely in the dog house for screwing it up when all I was trying to do was to make the system more efficient and less hassle as the very first Drayton Digistat is a real pain because to turn the temperature down two degrees you have to cycle all the way up the high 80Fs and then roll back down to the 40Fs and all the way round just to make that small adjustment.

I know that there will inevitably be plenty of you on here now wanting to deride me for taking on this job when I am not a qualified electrician but all I can say is that I did manage to fit the old Digistat ok myself and I do take sensible precautions such as switching off the mains before i work on the wiring connected to the room stat.

If anyone can help and particularly comment on why they think attaching just the red wire to Terminal 1/L and the Black wire to Terminal 3/Sat blew it up then it would be very much appreciated.
 
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Is your Digistat a programmable one or just a thermostat? The CM907 is a programmable stat, so it might be more complicated for your mother to use?

Also, it is taking me a long time to try and extract the salient points from your essay, as it contains a lot of irrelevant info. Brief and to the point is always better. ;)
 
Is your Digistat a programmable one or just a thermostat? The CM907 is a programmable stat, so it might be more complicated for your mother to use?

I am replacing the 15 year old basic Drayton Digistat Mk1 (this just changes temperature with no programming and shows current temperature and the set temperature) with a Honeywell CM907. The Honeywell CM907 is not complicated to use day to day as the temperature alterations all happen in the background to the schedule that has been programmed by the IT literate son. The current set temperature can be altered at any time with up and down buttons just like a simple digistat. You have to open the front door to access any complex programming features.

My mother has been using a Windows XP computer for 10 years and uses the internet and email. I do periodic security updates etc when I visit but she has had to seek my technical advice when I am not staying with her only once or twice a year. Perhaps I should not have mentioned her age as being 75 as you then seem to have jumped to false conclusions based on that.

Also, it is taking me a long time to try and extract the salient points from your essay, as it contains a lot of irrelevant info. Brief and to the point is always better. ;)

For The Sun and Daily Mirror readers in my audience let me simplify.

The old Drayton Digistat that I am replacing and that I have now managed to fry has four terminals numbered 1 (L), 2 (DEM.), 3 (SAT.) and 4 (N) and due to black masking taped fitted over all of them when I removed the wires I may have lost track of which terminal the black and blue wires were attached to.

When I tried to reconnect the old Drayton Digistat (after taking fright that I might fry the new Honewywell CM907 unit if I did not speak to Honeywell technical support first and they are closed over the weekend) I found I could not manage to connect the red, black and blue wires in a pattern that caused power to now be applied to the heating pump that the thermostat controls. Result the boiler runs and the water heats but the central heating does not get hot.

Eventually after a lot of wire changes but always keeping red on terminal 1 I unfortunately fried the old Digistat when I connected Red to terminal 1 (Live) and Black to terminal 3 (SAT). When I had red connected to terminal 1 and Black to terminal 3 but also the Blue wire to Terminal 4 (Neutral) this did not result in the Digistat being fried, even though the heating pump did not run.

So what does the fact that a combination of only the red wire connected to terminal 1 (Live) and the black wire attached to terminal 3 (SAT.) resulted in the Digistat being fried imply? I am slightly concerned that the Black wire may actually be the Neutral and the Blue wire may be the switched live back to the heating pump.

The new Honeywell CM907 just has A, B and C terminals and as I understand it if I connect the old Neutral wire to the new Honeywell CM907 at all instead of blanking it off I will fry that programmer too. So how do I test which wire out of the red, blue and black is the neutral one? It seems that a trip to Messrs B&Q to buy some kind of mains testing kit is therefore required?

Sorry I couldn't make it in in to Janet and John Go To Wiring School type story for you but it is a relatively complex or messy situation that I am now in.
 
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[quote="Capvermell";p="1643285
Also, it is taking me a long time to try and extract the salient points from your essay, as it contains a lot of irrelevant info. Brief and to the point is always better. ;)

For The Sun and Daily Mirror readers in my audience let me simplify.

[/quote]

Always a great idea to insult the people to whom you are asking for help. What a tool!
 
Always a great idea to insult the people to whom you are asking for help. What a tool!

But you don't want to help anyway. You just seem to be a forum troll who looks for reasons to take exception to requests for help.

My essay is long because trolls like yourself on forums then regularly complain that not all the information they need to offer a solution has been provided.

No one forces you to read the forum. If you don't want to help then don't but please don't try to start a class war in the process. :(
 
I wouldn't help you, don't worry.

D_Hailsham made the mistake of trying that. When he asked you to keep your post short, you belittled him by inferring that he is a tabloid reader.

You're completly up yourself. Class war, you've got no class mate.
 
You're completly up yourself. Class war, you've got no class mate.

And you are clearly an inverted class snob who actively despises providing help to anyone you identify as not being a fellow white van driver with your horrid England flags fluttering in the breeze.

Luckily as you are based in Bristol there is no danger that I will end up using your over priced services.

I knew there was a "mate" going to be delivered at some point in the not too distant future. When I get the time I really must leave this country and move to one where all these sad and pathetic class jealousies do not exist.

You do seem to have a very big chip indeed on your shoulder about all the exams at school that you so clearly didn't pass.

Currently listening to and watching Le Mans on British Eurosport where fortunately all the commentary team seem to be public school educated.

Do have fun refusing to share your limited knowledge about how to join a few copper wires up with others who ask for your help.
 
Ive only skipped through your posts (because they are too long and i am half/full phished and can't be rsed)
You have fkd your old stat so obviously the black was a neutral. Spend a tenner in b&sque and buy a cheap multimeter and figure it out. If you can't do that pay a heating guy or a spark around £50.
N btw stop being a nob. If you ask for advice at least be courteous. You are looking at your problem and we (if we feel like it) try to figure out what you are on about and offer FREE advice. Sometimes it is not easy to figure out wghat you are on about
 
Have you thought about finding the other end of the thermostat cable and checking what each wire is connected to? It might give you a clue as to which is the neutral.

When I tried to reconnect the old Drayton Digistat I found I could not manage to connect the red, black and blue wires in a pattern that caused power to now be applied to the heating pump that the thermostat controls. Result the boiler runs and the water heats but the central heating does not get hot.
That tells me that you have a pumped heating, gravity hot water system.

How is Hot Water temperature controlled? Is it by the boiler thermostat, or is there a stat on the side of the HW cylinder and a motorized valve?

What is the make/model of the existing time switch?

The CM907 may not be suitable.
 
I for one will not help a scum bag like this.He slates off tradesmen and then in the same breath asks for their help ,go **** yourself
 
That tells me that you have a pumped heating, gravity hot water system.

Correct. I already knew that was the configuration of the system from previous talks with the boiler servicing guy.

How is Hot Water temperature controlled? Is it by the boiler thermostat, or is there a stat on the side of the HW cylinder and a motorized valve?

There is a temperature control on the HW cylinder but I'm not sure exactly what that controls. The HW is always heated when the heating circuit is in use, which rather suggests there is no valve to isolate the hot water circuit. Without the heating pump operating the boiler just runs for three or four minutes until the water flowing through it is up to temp. The pipe from the boiler up to the HW cylinder is hot and the return pipe is luke warm. All the pipes feeding the heating circuits are stone cold.

What is the make/model of the existing time switch?

The CM907 may not be suitable.

The existing central heating control is a Drayton Tempus 7. The Drayton Digistat worked happily with this and latterly was switching on or off the heating pump circuit when the temp in the room fell below the set temperature. The CM907 surely does the same job but just adds time related control of the set temperature several times a day and/or on different days of the week.

If the CM907 is set for a lower temp overnight and in the middle of the day and on the HW circuit on the Drayton Tempus 7 left on constant it surely comes to much the same thing as operating the Tempus 7 on Twice and leaving the CH and HW switched off overnight?

Or are you saying that you think extra strain and/or running cost will be added on the HW side if the CH circuit is left on constant controlled by the CM907?

Apologies for any unjustified previous rudeness but a certain forum member was clearly deliberately try to provoke me and I do have a wordy writing style that does not seem taken exception to in other internet forums to the same degree as here. So with respect it does seem that some of you have something of a thing about trying to describe everything very briefly. I note that solicitors seem to get paid for generating as many words as possible. Not of course that I am a solicitor.
 
Not really worth helping the guy anyway, as she is off to live in a classless cunntry where all the wires will be different again, she'll only get confused, just thought I would share that bit of limited knowledge with you before getting into my white van to go and cut up other traffic on my way to overcharge some poor hard up windows XP pensioner, all the best "mate" ;)

Lets all wait for another War and Peace length reply :LOL:
 
Not really worth helping the guy anyway, as she is off to live in a classless cunntry where all the wires will be different again, she'll only get confused, just thought I would share that bit of limited knowledge with you before getting into my white van to go and cut up other traffic on my way to overcharge some poor hard up windows XP pensioner, all the best "mate" ;)

Lets all wait for another War and Peace length reply :LOL:

The thing is why do so many of here seem to enjoy conforming to my jaundiced and no doubt totally unfair stereotype. Surely there must be a poet or a writer amongst you that still engages in this useful but potentially dangerous and repetitive toil in order to earn some cash. Also if you will recall War and Peace sold in rather large numbers as did The Hobbitt etc.

Coming back to the hot water cylinder it has something called an AEI Timerswitch on the top of it that has a setting of definitely IN and then either OUT or AT which it can be switched between (it is rather old and worn so hard to read). This is one of the oldest bits of the system and may date back to 1958 when there was a coal fired boiler but the same radiators and hot water cylinder put in place. When I found it just now the switch was in the OUT or AT position. There also used to be a silver label scale on top of the AEI Timerswitch but that has long since worn off.

I don't know what the AEI Timerswitch is controlling by timer wise now though. There used to be a Satchwell timer that also controlled a driven motorised valve for the upstairs central heating circuit but I don't know if this also controlled the operating hours of the AEI Timerswitch? If it did then this means the hot water cylinder is now potentially being heated up whenever the boiler runs. Does this mean in a cold winter spell when the central heating pump is running all the time there is any danger of overheating the cylinder and blowing it up?!

The problem I face is that my mother is of an "if ain't broke don't fix it" mentality but her current oil heating bill is nearly £2,000 per annum and I'm sure the current system configuration could be made a lot more efficient.

For now I need to get a working room stat back in place so the heating circuit runs and as I was only visiting for the weekend am rather under pressure to get this done by Monday even though fortunately central heating (even out here in the countryside) is only a very marginal need late in the evening for the next two or three months.

I hope that the bigger and more generous of you on here still may offer some advice even though I can see that some of you are now chuckling with delight at the thought of me falling in the hands of one of your colleagues and being landed with a labour bill of £100+
 

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