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I was also surprised when told electrical terminals are within the gas tight area, one would expect at least a warning sign, however there is nothing on my boilers to say caution gas sealed or anything else.
Since we were selling my father-in-laws house we has a gas safe guy to fit a new fire, and do other work, the actually gas he did a good job, testing to ensure no gas leaks using equipment I don't own, so even if I wanted I could not have tested like he did.
However the back plate for fire was sealed to the wall and flue brick with duct tape which as soon as fire got hot peeled off, so until fuel gets warm there is a real danger of exhaust gases getting into the house, and a gas stove was fitted without any cooker hood venting to outside, so although I would not do anything with the supply gas, I would not worry about working with the flue gas as likely I would do a better job to the gas safe guy.
I can however see the problem with not being sealed to room, I note with my boiler well before Corgi came in, if used with cover off the draft through garage could cause the pilot flame to blow out, so yes does need a seal, but on my old boiler all electric connections were before the seal, and there was no stuffing gland as the cables entered the boiler only a clamp, so very clearly that area was not sealed. I have worked with flame proof glands many times, I have fitted 1000's of Hawke glands when working on the building of the Schiehallion oil ship in Belfast, also gas terminal at Point of Ayr and I can recognise a gas tight gland and non of my gas boilers have gas tight glands in the junction box.
So I would not really worry unless you see a warning sign to say gas sealed. Or signs there is clearly some seal used. The boiler would have to be some really cheap and nasty make to put the electrical junction box in the gas tight area, as cables like Ali-tube are not gas tight what ever gland you use and could direct gases into electrical junction boxes so even with a stuffing gland it would not seal.
Since we were selling my father-in-laws house we has a gas safe guy to fit a new fire, and do other work, the actually gas he did a good job, testing to ensure no gas leaks using equipment I don't own, so even if I wanted I could not have tested like he did.
However the back plate for fire was sealed to the wall and flue brick with duct tape which as soon as fire got hot peeled off, so until fuel gets warm there is a real danger of exhaust gases getting into the house, and a gas stove was fitted without any cooker hood venting to outside, so although I would not do anything with the supply gas, I would not worry about working with the flue gas as likely I would do a better job to the gas safe guy.
I can however see the problem with not being sealed to room, I note with my boiler well before Corgi came in, if used with cover off the draft through garage could cause the pilot flame to blow out, so yes does need a seal, but on my old boiler all electric connections were before the seal, and there was no stuffing gland as the cables entered the boiler only a clamp, so very clearly that area was not sealed. I have worked with flame proof glands many times, I have fitted 1000's of Hawke glands when working on the building of the Schiehallion oil ship in Belfast, also gas terminal at Point of Ayr and I can recognise a gas tight gland and non of my gas boilers have gas tight glands in the junction box.
So I would not really worry unless you see a warning sign to say gas sealed. Or signs there is clearly some seal used. The boiler would have to be some really cheap and nasty make to put the electrical junction box in the gas tight area, as cables like Ali-tube are not gas tight what ever gland you use and could direct gases into electrical junction boxes so even with a stuffing gland it would not seal.
