Wiring new Salus EP200 (replacing an old Sangamo)

Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by Raddish, 5 May 2009.

  1. Raddish

    Raddish

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    I have an old Sangamo 410 (F4) programmer that is worn out. I bought a Salus EP200 (Digital 2 Channel) programmer, but just cannot get the boiler to work with it.
    The old Sangamo has 8 connections on its backplate as follows:-
    1 - Connected to ?(A) also Bridged to 6
    2 - not used
    3 - Mains - Live
    4 - Mains - Neutral, also connected to ?(B)
    5 - Connected to ?(A)
    6 - Bridged to 1
    7 - not used
    8 - Connected to ?(B)
    The system is gravity fed but with a pump on the oil boiler and a single room thermostat.
    The wiring diagram says the connections are as follows:-
    1 - ? switched to a Neon and switched to a motor?
    2 - not used
    3 - Live input & to a motor?
    4 - Neutral input & to a motor?
    5 - bridged to and connected to the Neon?
    6 - switched to HW(7) or CH+HW(8)
    7 - connected to HW via switch to 6
    8 - connected to CH & HW via switch to 6
    I assume 6,7, & 8 is just the switch from HW only to HW+CH

    So now I come to the Salus programmer, which has 6 connections on its backplate as follows:-
    N - Neutral
    L - Live
    1 - HW off
    2 - CH off
    3 - HW on
    4 - CH on

    I have tried the following old to new
    1 to 1
    3 to Live
    4 to Neutral and
    4 to 2
    5 to 3
    8 to 2

    I have also tried the following old to new
    1 to 3
    3 to Live
    4 to Neutral and
    4 to 4
    5 to 1
    8 to 2

    In neither case does the boiler respond, even though the Salus indicates either that the CH is on, the HW is on or even that they are both on.

    Any ideas - the water is getting cold, and I am getting fed up re-connecting the old Sangomo just to operate it manually.

    JR
     
  2. cider

    cider

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    I think probably get an electrician :confused:
     
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  4. D_Hailsham

    D_Hailsham

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  5. Raddish

    Raddish

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    Thanks, D_Hailsham for these, I'll see what I can make of them.

    Yes, Cider, I might have to get an electrician eventually.

    Another suggestion has been to link-wire through a 8 terminal block to the back-plate of the old programmer and monitor the current on each connection/terminal as the settings change, and then do the same for the new programmer. That way it ought to be possible to note what each wire operates and then match up the connections!

    I'll report back after the next attempt, which will not be until the weekend.
    JR
     
  6. DIYnot Local

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