Wiring to ceramic hob

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Hi all, I can see many threads about wiring in and at a hob but my query more relates to the wiring connections before the hob, please.

I have a correct capacity cable (single as a radial supply) from fuse the box and routed near to the hob but not wired in to anything yet.

My question is, would the wire go straight in to a 45A Double Pole Switch (supply) and from there to the hob (feed), or should there be another connection somewhere in the run, especially if there is no local fused plate used anywhere for this?

Additionally and for future use, the 45A DP switch will be in a tiled wall, so cables buried behind that...so if ever changing again in the future I take it that the existing wires that meet at the hob are simply switched to the new one (capacity allowing etc.) rather than anything within the switch.

Thanks

Johan
 
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Thanks Eric. So just straight in and out of the switch, fused switch anywhere?
 
In and out of the switch, yes but then with a Cooker Connection Unit -

bg-nexus-white-cooker.jpg


You will probably want a double Connection Unit for an oven as well.

2_373.jpg
No fuses needed.
 
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Hi and thanks for that, very helpful.

The cooker has a moulded plug and the plan was to plug that in to an existing standard double socket under the units, so no trailing wires above the worktop.

As for the hob, I have I 45A DP switch which I wish to bury in to the wall and run all wires within the wall before tiling. Are you saying that as the cable to the main fuse box has it's own fuse within the main fuse box that it doesn't need one locally near the hob itself?

Thanks
 
The cooker has a moulded plug and the plan was to plug that in to an existing standard double socket under the units, so no trailing wires above the worktop.
Ok.

Are you saying that as the cable to the main fuse box has it's own fuse within the main fuse box that it doesn't need one locally near the hob itself?
That's correct.
 
Great, thank you very much.

So finally is it a "minimum" 90 degree flex from the 45A DP to the hob that is required or is there a better/preferred capacity cable that one should use for hobs?
I have seen all sorts of suggestions and note Eric's earlier 90 degree suggestion, which does sound right to me.
 
So finally is it a "minimum" 90 degree flex from the 45A DP to the hob that is required or is there a better/preferred capacity cable that one should use for hobs?
Well, the usual wording is just heat resistant (although normal twin and earth is often used).
 
They way I do these: From 45A switch, 6.0mm² T+E to dual box flushed in wall behind oven. Wire 45A cooker outlet and 13A unswitched fused spur into dual box. Wire oven flex to 13A fused connection unit. Wire hob to 45A cooker outlet with 4mm² cable. That way they can both be isolated quicky in an emergency with the above counter cooker switch.
 
Okay, all good information...thanks.

So this is kind of what I meant about a unit elsewhere to isolate locally.

- I get the 45A cooker outlet with 4mm² cable to the hob.
- I also get the 13A unswitched fused spur in to the dual box to supply the oven.
As the oven has a moulded plug would it not be the same thing to put a single 13A 1 gang socket?

However where is the 13A unswitched (or of acceptable single 1 gang socket) getting it's feed from?

The feed from the 45A switch (6mm² as you suggest) will go directly in to the 45A cooker outlet or is the 6mm² somehow being split and therefore supplying both that and the 13A unswitched fused spur?
Hence the single above counter 45A switch acting as isolator for both.

Again, many thanks.
 
Yes you can use a single unswitched socket for the oven if there is enough room for the depth of the plug and socket. I have attached a basic layout drawing.
oven.png
 

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