New cooker and gas hob

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I am currently in the process of changing a free standing cooker with an under the counter single oven and gas hob.

The new cooker is being located in the same place as the old, with the hob directly above it. The current electrics run to the right hand side and consist of a 45A DP switch with a low level cooker connection unit. I do not have a socket to plug the gas hob into for the ignition.

The plan is to place a 45A cooker control unit with a 13A switched socket between the DP switch and the current connection unit. The new cooker would be wired into the original connection unit. The gas hob ignition plugged into the new connection unit with socket. The gas hob flex is located to the left of the unit and may need extending.

Is this OK?

Alternatively could I place a 45A FCU between the DP switch and current cooker connection and run a spur socket over to the left of the cooker for the hob. This would save extending the flex. The FCU would have a fuse rated for the ignition.
 
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There are a few ways to do this but I would (space permitting) plase a FCU adjacent to the cooker connection unit and connect to the CCU in as big a cable as you can fit in the FCU and then connect your hob into that.
 
While both of your suggestions would work, they are far too complex.

Many single ovens have a 13A plug. If yours does, the solution is to just remove the existing connection unit and replace it with a double socket outlet. The oven and hob just plug in.

If the oven needs to be wired in, keep the existing outlet plate for the oven, and install a single socket outlet next to it for the hob ignition.
 
Before you go to far down the road of planning what you are going to do, you should read this, in case it's news to you:

//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:part-p


The plan is to place a 45A cooker control unit with a 13A switched socket between the DP switch and the current connection unit.
Why do you want ti end up with two switches in series? If you want to plug the hob into the socket of a CCU, why not replace the existing one with one with a socket?


The new cooker would be wired into the original connection unit. The gas hob ignition plugged into the new connection unit with socket. The gas hob flex is located to the left of the unit and may need extending.

Is this OK?
It's a bit tacky - wouldn't it be neater not to have a flex from the hob sticking up through the worktop, running to a plug?


Alternatively could I place a 45A FCU between the DP switch and current cooker connection and run a spur socket over to the left of the cooker for the hob. This would save extending the flex. The FCU would have a fuse rated for the ignition.
There's no such thing as a 45A FCU.

Some things you don't seem to have considered:

1) The oven will probably require protection by a lower rated MCB than the one on the existing cooker circuit.

2) The cooker circuit may be wired in a cable size that's too big for you to get two conductors into the terminals of sockets, FCUs etc.

What is the rating of the oven? It's not unusual for single ones to be able to be plugged in, in which case you could replace the outlet place with a double socket...
 
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Thanks for the input but the best way forward is to get an electrician.
Ban-all-sheds you are correct the circuit will need protecting with a 20A MCB and is currently on an old circuit with 30A fuse cartridge, so probably worth getting the consumer unit replaced and those circuits on MCB's. There was a mis-understanding on the flex. No intention of bringing the flex up through the worktop. Very tacky.
Just out of interest ColJack where did you get that split double box with ccu from? Could'nt find anything like it on the web.
 

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