wiring up a lighting photocell without a neutral wire?

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Hi, i want to wire up a photocell switch to my outdoor lights but want to wire it up to the 5amp light switch in the hall. in the old days I had a handy Smiths Timeguard light switch , the size of a normal UK wall light switch and it had a photocell in it and then a timer up to 8hours (so turned light on at dusk and programmable up to 8 hours) but that is discontinued now. From my memory (and I am not sure how it managed to do it) but the switch did not need a neutral wire to operate. You just simply used the existing live wires of the existing light switch (permanent live & switched live) . so my light switch in the hall just has the normal live wires and earth wire in the back box, no neutral wire of course. any ideas how I could wire up a photocell to it or what has replaced the smiths timeguard switch that does not need a neutral wire?

this was the timeguard switch (model numberZV210):
1765196980356.png
 
so my light switch in the hall just has the normal live wires and earth wire in the back box, no neutral wire of course. any ideas how I could wire up a photocell to it or what has replaced the smiths timeguard switch that does not need a neutral wire?

Unless the PIR is designed to work with no neutral, it cannot be done..

Those things which manage to work with no neutral, do so by charging a little internal battery, to run things. The battery is charged, when the switch is off, by passing a small current through the lamp circuit. They tend not to work as well with LED's.
 
as far as i can see no neutral required, uses a battery
1765198719381.png
The minimum lamp size is a problem.
I had the same problem, and this smart switch
1765198864205.png
cured it for me, but it needs a hub,
1765198916169.png
so unless using other smart devices it can work out expensive. PIR bulb
1765199017034.png
may help? Or just a smart bulb, they have dropped in price so much, last ones I got at £5 each, the problem is, one can spend more saving electric than the electric would cost, 10 watt bulb at 25p/kWh cost £22 a year left on 24/7, if I have got my maths right, so spending £35 on a switch seems OTT.

I use a smart bulb
1765199655536.png
the socket was put at top of steps for gardening, so put a lamp on a stork
1765199850263.png
with a smart bulb, and just unplug it when I need the socket. It is actually too bright with a 12 watt smart bulb to see to reverse with car's rear camera, so since smart, turned down to around 20% so only around 3 watt most of the time, which is enough.
 
They don’t need neutral, but you must use an incandescent lamp.

Sadly no battery to charge.
The second the bulb fails or the power goes off, they loose their memory
 
Unless the PIR is designed to work with no neutral, it cannot be done..

Those things which manage to work with no neutral, do so by charging a little internal battery, to run things. The battery is charged, when the switch is off, by passing a small current through the lamp circuit. They tend not to work as well with LED's.

as far as i can see no neutral required, uses a battery


Thats fascinating/like magic if thats the way it worked with a rechargeable battery inside , i mean how did it charge the battery in it without a neutral supply along with the live?

I have plenty of plug in digital timers in the house which have a battery in them , but the battery in them will only charge if there is a live and neutral present at the socket.
 
Thats fascinating/like magic if thats the way it worked with a rechargeable battery inside , i mean how did it charge the battery in it without a neutral supply along with the live?

The switch, obviously, was in series with the load/lamp, so there was a voltage across the switch, when off. That voltage was stepped down, to charge the battery, when the lamp was switched off, to power the electronics when the light was on.
 
it does not say anything about charging a battery

in the PDF data sheet it says

Ah right thank you - this is the new model then and this new model uses a replaceable 9v battery it makes sense now. my old timeguard switch didnt have a replaceable 9v battery in it ... so i presume it must have had a rechargeable one in it then, but the replacement ones these days have a normal alkaline 9v battery in it then
 

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