I’ve replaced an old ESi 3-channel programmer with a Drayton Wiser Kit 3 controlling Zone 1 (downstairs), Zone 2 (upstairs) and hot water.
We moved in a year ago and had already suspected the old system wasn’t zoning correctly — some radiators seemed to come on with the wrong zone and sometimes when hot water was running.
The programmer wiring was transferred like-for-like from ESi to Wiser. At the two old wired room thermostats I bypassed the thermostat switch as instructed by Wiser, joining the live and switched-live (brown to black), as control is now via the wireless thermostats/app.
Zone 1 / Channel 1 – downstairs
Zone 2 / Channel 2 – upstairs
Hot water
The suspect Zone 2 valve is an ESi ZV-222/W 2-port motorised valve, connected to the wiring centre by its 5-pin plug/loom.
I haven’t yet removed the actuator to check whether the brass valve spindle moves freely.
With the heating electrics/fuse OFF, the Zone 2 actuator lever regains normal resistance and appears to spring closed.
As soon as power is restored and the system is operated, the Zone 2 lever becomes loose/open again — including when other demands are being used.
So I’m wondering whether the actuator itself is faulty, or whether Zone 2 is receiving an unwanted/permanent live and therefore being held open whenever the system is powered. That would explain why HW circulation also passes through the upstairs radiators.
I’ve attached the original wiring-board diagram. The Zone 2 valve itself connects via the 5-pin plug and isn’t explicitly shown on the drawing.
Can anyone advise where on this wiring board I should test for the Zone 2 motor/opening supply, and what readings I should expect with Zone 2 OFF, Zone 2 ON and HW-only?
We moved in a year ago and had already suspected the old system wasn’t zoning correctly — some radiators seemed to come on with the wrong zone and sometimes when hot water was running.
The programmer wiring was transferred like-for-like from ESi to Wiser. At the two old wired room thermostats I bypassed the thermostat switch as instructed by Wiser, joining the live and switched-live (brown to black), as control is now via the wireless thermostats/app.
What I’ve found
Zone 1 / Channel 1 – downstairs
- Calls for heat normally.
- Downstairs radiators get hot.
- Some upstairs radiators also heated during testing.
- Motorised valve manual lever has normal spring resistance when closed.
Zone 2 / Channel 2 – upstairs
- Calling Zone 2 produces no useful heating/boiler response.
- Upstairs does not heat normally.
- The motorised valve lever has virtually no resistance and slides freely, suggesting the valve is already open.
Hot water
- Hot-water valve appears to operate normally.
- Boiler/cylinder heating operates.
- But the upstairs radiators also become hot when HW alone is selected.
The suspect Zone 2 valve is an ESi ZV-222/W 2-port motorised valve, connected to the wiring centre by its 5-pin plug/loom.
I haven’t yet removed the actuator to check whether the brass valve spindle moves freely.
The strange part
With the heating electrics/fuse OFF, the Zone 2 actuator lever regains normal resistance and appears to spring closed.
As soon as power is restored and the system is operated, the Zone 2 lever becomes loose/open again — including when other demands are being used.
So I’m wondering whether the actuator itself is faulty, or whether Zone 2 is receiving an unwanted/permanent live and therefore being held open whenever the system is powered. That would explain why HW circulation also passes through the upstairs radiators.
I’ve attached the original wiring-board diagram. The Zone 2 valve itself connects via the 5-pin plug and isn’t explicitly shown on the drawing.
Can anyone advise where on this wiring board I should test for the Zone 2 motor/opening supply, and what readings I should expect with Zone 2 OFF, Zone 2 ON and HW-only?
