Wondered if someone could help diagnose my boiler?

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Ahhh... got it. Sorry, didn't see the link before.

Thanks for that. I'll have a look and see if I can get one locally.

Thanks again :)
 
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JohnnyT said:
Hi
What I don't understand though is that after the guy left this afternoon and I pressurised the system to 1.5 bar and then put the heating on, I watched the pressure rise to just over 2.0 bar (I also had the PR pipe disconnected to see if anything came out of it) and then the heating got to temperature and switched off. I then turned the heating off and the pressure (eventually) dropped (when the temp dropped below 50 ish) to under 1.0 bar.

Bear in mind during all this time the pressure hadn't gone over the 3.0 bar that I understood was needed to trigger the PR valve?

John :)
Click to expand...

The schrader valve is obviously slow leaking, but if nowt is coming out of the PRV, and pressure doesn't go over 3 bar, then surely something else os going on?. I would concur with Picasso and his suspicion of the HEX leaking at temperature/pressure.
I have exactly the same problem with a 3 YO Main, and have decided on the Hex, but due to cost am going to recheck the EV, and I have a balloon cable tied to the PRV outlet.
 
Well, I couldn't get the replacement cores for the Schrader valve. I did, however, manage to get the tool to remove it. So, an hour ago I followed Terry's excellent advice and drained the boiler, removed the valve core, cleaned it, re-seated it, re-pressurised the expansion vessel to 1.0 bar (as per the instructions) and then put the heating on. When my heating got to temperature I turned it off and let it cool down and the boiler didn't lose any pressure at all !!!!!

I'm really hoping this is fixed.

And if it is fixed and any of you who've helped in this thread ever find yourself in Fife and want a nice free ice cold pint of lager on me, then I will be more than happy to provide you with one! :)

I'm going to order the tool and replacement cores that Terry recommended just in case the valve starts to leak again.

I'll also keep a very close eye on it over the next day or two just in case (as pointed out by FiremanT) that there is something else going on as well.

However, as I sit and type this, bath running, cold beer in my hand, I'm a very happy chap.

Thank you all once again

Cheers

John :)
 
Hi there,
I had a strange episode with the boiler tonight. I had re-seated the schrader valve and the boiler was working for a few days but then lost pressure again.

I had ordered the new schrader valves from the internet (the ones that Terry recommended) with the intention of changing the schrader valve for a new one when they arrived.

They arrived today so I did the following:

Opened the boiler drain and emptied it into a bowl

Then it seemed to finish. Then the boiler made a gurgling sound like air rushing in from somewhere and water started pouring from it again.

Then after that burst of water it seemed to dribble off and then another gurgling sound and another blast of water?

I closed the drain and connected the pump to the expansion vessel. Then I opened the drain again and began pumping.

Water came out but seemed to die off and then flow out again (same as before)?

I got the expansion vessel to pressure (1.0 bar) and then closed the drain and disconnected the pump.

Then when I turned the boiler on it made strange empty/filling/gurgling sounds and I almost immediately got a fault code that translated to "The tacho signal from the fan is not present during the preoperative or operating phase or there is no current or air after a certain time".

This fault happened a few more times but eventually cleared and the boiler seems to be working again for now....

Any ideas what's going on?

Is the expansion vessel completely knackered??

Or is there another problem now?

Or is this just normal??

Many thanks

John :)
 
Keep an eye on the pressure gauge over the next few days, if when the heatings on the pressure remains below or around 2 bar then the vessel is ok. If the pressure starts going nearer 3 bar when in use I would check the pressure in the vessel again. If it has lost pressure then I would say it's time to replace or fit an external one on the system somewhere if easier.
 
Hi Rampage, thanks for the reply.

I'll keep an eye on it.

I wondered if the reason the system seemed to be emptying itself was maybe because the system was at around 38 deg when I opened the drain valve (i.e. not fully cool) and therefore maybe had back pressure that started to chuck out all the water in the system?

What do you think?

Also, with all this water now drained out of my system (i.e. 2 x washing up bowls full) do you think I need to add any kind of additive to the system or do modern systems not need anything like that?

Thanks

John :)
 
It could of lost pressure due to the system settling down after the works been carried out, or you may have a small leak somewhere. Check the relief pipe that terminates outside for any signs of water. It wouldn't harm to add more inhibitor but I would wait until you're sure the system holds it pressure
 
D

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