Wood panelled look in a bathroom

[vineeth]

Hi All,

Sorry if I am in the wrong forum with this doubt.

In the new bathroom that we are building (Freestanding bath kept quite close to the wall since using concealed taps and controls fitted to that wall). I am planning to give the wall a wood panelled look (clean horizontal lines around 2 - 3 mm wide by 2 - 3 mm deep all the way from start of the wall to the end of the wall.

Attaching a bathroom design, the idea is to bring the same floor look in the picture to one of the walls where all the taps, spout and thermostatic controller will fit on to.

I was wondering if I could use 12mm marine or outdoor ply and route lines on the sheet. Not sure how to treat the cuts to make it waterproof. Also do I need to treat the ply in addition to it being marine, so that it does not warp.

Thanks

 

[JohnD]

are the lines intended to give an impression of planking?

 

[JP_]

how about wood effect cladding?

 

[vineeth]

are the lines intended to give an impression of planking?

More or less. thought of using panels, but not sure if I can find any long ones (around 2m wide wall)

 

[vineeth]

how about wood effect cladding?

Could do with that, but the looks would be different, also not sure if I can get long panels (2m wide wall)

 

[JohnD]

T&G on battens

You can use wood dye to colour it to your whim.

 

[opps]

I was wondering if I could use 12mm marine or outdoor ply and route lines on the sheet. Not sure how to treat the cuts to make it waterproof. Also do I need to treat the ply in addition to it being marine, so that it does not warp.

I don't see why not. I would use a plunge circular saw with a guide rail (eg Festool), then sand the edges to soften them. You could then varnish the board with which ever sheen level you want. You could even put darker paint into the groves (after varnishing) to highlight them more.

If the bath is a double skin, why not use a bath filler over flow rather than a spout?

 

[vineeth]

I don't see why not. I would use a plunge circular saw with a guide rail (eg Festool), then sand the edges to soften them.

What sheet should I use, MDF would be lacking any wood grain effect. Was thinking to use hardwood veneered MDF, and then like you said use the saw. Not sure if I could find a hardwood veneered MR MDF

If the bath is a double skin, why not use a bath filler over flow rather than a spout?

Thought of using it, but too late Wife ordered a swivelling spout, looks symmetric as well

 

[opps]

What sheet should I use, MDF would be lacking any wood grain effect. Was thinking to use hardwood veneered MDF, and then like you said use the saw. Not sure if I could find a hardwood veneered MR MDF

I was thinking more along the lines of a veneered plywood rather than MDF..

eg http://www.chilterntimber.co.uk/pro...-veneered-ply-including-oak-walnut-suppliers/

 

[vineeth]

I was thinking more along the lines of a veneered plywood rather than MDF..

eg http://www.chilterntimber.co.uk/pro...-veneered-ply-including-oak-walnut-suppliers/

Any reason why you suggested ply instead of MR MDF? Also what thickness would you suggest to use the sheet as a panel (Would be fixing it directly over a Marine plasterboard) Trying to gather as much info before taking the plunge

The reason I thought of going with mdf is it's less prone to bowing, and you get a water resistance as well with MR. Saw something online

https://www.slhardwoods.co.uk/products/sheet-material/veneered-moisture-resistant-mr-mdf

 

[opps]

Any reason why you suggested ply instead of MR MDF? Also what thickness would you suggest to use the sheet as a panel (Would be fixing it directly over a Marine plasterboard) Trying to gather as much info before taking the plunge

The reason I thought of going with mdf is it's less prone to bowing, and you get a water resistance as well with MR. Saw something online

https://www.slhardwoods.co.uk/products/sheet-material/veneered-moisture-resistant-mr-mdf

Typically, the MR MDF is green under the surface face. I guess that wouldn't be an issue if you are painting the gaps a darker colour.

MR MDF still swells when it gets wet, especially where it has been cut, and you are going to have a lot of grooves (read: cuts).

Yes, MDF is more stable than ply but ply, by and large, is pretty stable.

Thickness? Assuming that the depth of cut is 3mm, I'd go for 12mm. 9mm might be OK though.

 

[vineeth]

Thickness? Assuming that the depth of cut is 3mm, I'd go for 12mm. 9mm might be OK though.

Thanks a ton for all the input