Worcester 240 divertor valve problem, Spindle wont reset..

18 Mar 2009
Reaction score
United Kingdom
The problem I am having is No central heating, the hot water is fine. Upon inspectin, I can see that the spindle on the divertor valve is permanently in the hot water position. Normally, when you turn the hot water tap on, the spindle comes out and pushes the microswitch. Now, the spindle does not go back in when you switch the tap off.

The spindle feels fine, I only fitted the diaphragm a few months ago. If I push the spindle in, the spring pushes it back out.

My questions are:

How does the divertor valve work
How is the spindle triggered, what pushes it out, Why doesnt it go back in?.
Can I get in the valve to fix problem ?..
All answers greatly appreciated
Many thanks.
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I think you have put the diaphragm unit spring on the wrong side of the diaphragm!

The diverter valve works by balancing two opposing springs and the water differential pressure displaces the diaphragm allowing the moving parts to go to the DHW position.

Tony Glazier
Hi Tony,
I fitted the diaphragm a few months ago and everything was fine, so i dont think its the spring, if it was, wouldnt i have had problem sooner?
BUT I fitted a new radiator last week, all okay until yesterday. I suspected that there may be a blockage in the pipes, It was when I was investigating this that I noticed that the spindle was not in its correct position, it should only be out when the hot water tap is on.

You have not made it clear what happens if you push the pin back in.

Its very rare but the pin can become jammed.

If it can be pushed back but returns then I would expect that it is a problem with springs.

Whst did you mean by "the pin is fine"?

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Hello again,
I have just had another look, when i push the pin in it comes back out.
I figured that if i turn the central heating on, keep the pin pushed in, I should have hot radiators.
I noticed that the flow pipe from the pump was hot, to the isolation valve, but cold the other side of the valve, no flow out. I suspect that the isolation valve is blocked, but when i turned it yesterday it was leaking quite bad-not so bad now, tiny trickle but weary of touching it again just incase it shoots out and i cant stop it. How can i unblock it or can they be repaired? I dont want to buy a new one just incase im wrong.
You were right about the spring, just took the divertor vavlve apart and the circlip had come off the spindle, reseated it and heating is working but valve is now leaking.
I used a new washer and tightened the screws and its leaking from the top, loosened all screws, retightened, but still leaking. Is there a special sequence to tightnen them? or should I take apart and put some ptfe in there?
Replace the diaphgragm and spring assy complete. If the clip has come off once it will happen again. A correctly fitted diaphragm will seal correctly without the use of tape.(There was none used originally)
Tighten the screws going opposite sides and in about 3 stages.
I thought you meant the pin seal was leaking!

Is it from the diaphragm flange or a pipe seal ?

It was the diaphragm flange. I put a new diaphragm in and it it working now. Although, the part where the microswitches are attached to the diaphragm with a circlip has broken, tried superglue but no joy, had to use gaffa tape in the end. do you know what they are called so I can source one?
Sorry, I meant where the hot water micro switches are attached to the DV, not the diaphragm,

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