Worcester 280 RSF Leaking

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21 Apr 2007
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Hi, my Worcester 280 RSF has started to leak.

It looks like its leaking from a couple of places.

This being the main one (Main Burner Assembly?)



This pipe goes to...



Another possible leak (Heating Flow and Return Manifold?)



Its hard to get to the nut in the top picture to tighten it but I just about managed to grip it and must of moved it slighty as water started to come out of it much faster and I had to use the stop cock to stop the water supply.


Think the problem might of been happening for a couple of days due to the amount of water that had leaked.

The only thing that we have changed in the past week is turned off some of the upstairs radiators.

Any advice?

Thanks
 
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Most, if not all Worcesters, if not all boilers, have fibre washers ajoining pipework.

From what i can see, the washers have perished, and no amount of tightening will cure that. If anything, you will just shear the thread.

There is ways and means of getting to those awkward nuts, but it involves removing other components first, and if your not sure, i would suggest you get someone who knows the boiler , and do the job correctly .

Dave.
 
We all also routinely use spanners ordinary mortals won't have...
 
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ChrisR said:
We all also routinely use spanners ordinary mortals won't have...


ahhh the spanner of thor!!!!! or the pump plier of odin!!!!

you getting very arcane chris :)

BY THE POWER OF ROTHENBERGER :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
 
Well there's...
18036.gif
7505.gif
7515.gif

42221.JPG
42264.JPG


and lots of others.
 
They look quite easy to get at to me OP. Probably 3/4" fibre washers suitable for heating appliances (not tap connector washers) job would be quite easy. You may have trouble clearing ai from the heatexchanger afterwards, don't let the boiler light until it's all gone or you will be buying a new overheat stat, as it's an old one and they only reset a few times before they become trigger happy.

Went to a right old Ravenheat the other day with the diverter valve right at the back in the middle facing backwards and a slant of the rear casework meant that you couldn't change the diaphragm in situ (though that would have been a long job anyway due to other access problems, not the least being manufacturers clearances ignored and cupboard full of childrens toys which I got told off for disturbing).

I couldn't be absolutely sure about clearances as expectedly MI's were not available for me. I don't think Ravenheat would have designed a boiler so that the power leed went in through an ungrometed hole in the metal side casing, kitchen unit packed tight up to the bottom, but not removable bench without as retile job etct etc.

Looking at general condition of boiler, I didn't fancy half dismantling it to change a diaphragm (not the least because of the householders attitude towards helping the situation along) so afaik there is a lady in York trying to sell her house who is going to pretend the heating all works good, because it can't be fixed for the price of a packet of crisps, without first moving her child's toys out of the way.
 
If this is a boiler with a pilot light then this will have been caused by draining the system and leaving the pilot light on.

This overheats the main HE and the joints often leak afterwards.

Tony
 
It was the fibre washer.

Got the pipe off and the washer just broke up in my hand. Replaced it and everythings fine now.

Cheers for the replies.
 
ChrisR said:
Well there's...
18036.gif
7505.gif
7515.gif

42221.JPG
42264.JPG


and lots of others.

WOW they look great

can you recommend a good website for this spanners chris? maybe I can get the guv nor to treat me

lmao
 
If you're serious about the job you need to have this done. It helps if you can remember it though, when you go to pick your nose.

handsp.gif
 
ChrisR said:
If you're serious about the job you need to have this done. It helps if you can remember it though, when you go to pick your nose.

handsp.gif

BRILLIANT

that and a couple more arms grafted on an I am ready to go :)
 

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