Worcester 9.24 Increases In Pressure Even When Off

[RSVman]

Hi, I have a Worcester Combi 9.24 and have had this problem for a few days now. Each time I relieve the pressure by bleeding the radiators to around 0.8 Bar the pressure increases slowly even if the heating is not switched on.

I have searched the threads in this forum and they point mainly to the fill loop bypassing. How can I check this ? and could it be anything else?

The boiler is quite old it was installed in 1991 and has been very reliable with just the digital display having to be replaced about 3 years ago.

Thanks

 

[nickso]

take the loop off.....it will be obvious if its passing.

 

[RSVman]

take the loop off.....it will be obvious if its passing.

From which end....and would I have to turn the mains off too?

 

[nickso]

er from both ends.....take it off!

if tis passing you will obviously get water out of it but theres no need to turn the mains off.....particularly as you are trying to prove mains water is passing through it.

take your time and you wont go wrong.

 

[RSVman]

Ok I'll have a go now....Cheers nickso

 

[ChrisR]

If it still does it, your hot water heat exchanger is leaking internally. In which case let me know cos I have a new one. Which is probably one moe than I'll need in my lifetime.

 

[RSVman]

Thanks for the offer Chris R.....will keep it in mind.

Right I undid the hose where it goes into the central heating return pipe, at the bottom of the picture, before the silver connector. Water did come out and the presure on the guage was dropping, is this normal. I put my thumb over the pipe but pressure built up, is this normal.

Here is the picture of my boiler connections.

If I let all the water come out all I have to do is refill using the loop link?

I still need to check if the tap part of the link pipe is passing, but want to confirm that all is normal at the moment.

When I reconnected the pipe again I could see the pressure increasing slowly.

I just want to be sure of what I am doing..OK

Cheers

 

[RSVman]

Update...

I made a blanking plug for the CH return pipe, and put my finger over the loop link and sure enough pressure soon builds up.....so I now know what the problem is.....the tap is passing. so all I need is a new tap.

Thanks for the help.

 

[pannierstan]

Ha looking at the state of those connections and the boiler jig start saving a few pennies

Im suprised the pressure has been rising with all the water ****ing out of those connections, oh and there is also a leak from the diveror valve hence the patch of rust in the left hand side of the bottom panel

Stan

 

[croydoncorgi]

The cylinder-shaped thing at the bottom of your picture is supposed to be a non-return valve. If water runs out of the FIXED part of the joint you undid, then the N/R valve has failed. If water ALSO runs out of the flexy pipe, then the manual valve on the other end of the flexy has failed too.

Best solution is to buy a complete replacement 'filling loop' which will give you a new N/R valve and a filling valve which should fit straight on.

The only problems are you'll need to turn off the cold water supply AND depressurise and partly drain the CH pipework before removing the bits.

(But judging by the rust stains on the bottom of your boiler you'd do well to make sure that this is the least of your problems!)

 

[Agile]

If that was my boiler then I would be embarassed to publish such a picture!

It clearly needs to be replaced!

It has been leaking from several places for quite a long while. Is your car just as rusty?

 

[RSVman]

Gosh !!! thanks (I think) for all the follow up posts.....

Yes the boiler is tired, after all its over 17 years old, but what would you recommend as a replacement boiler, as it is time to think about getting it changed.