Worcester Bosch Highflow 440 - reliable?

Agile said:
There is a slight siscrepancy between any combi boiler and your apparent desire to have a 25 li/min shower.

Even a 500 li unvented cylinder will be emptied by your wasteful shower in 20 minutes!

The 937 does not seem to stand up to technical scrutiny on its performance. The natural flow rate of about 15 li/min is augmented by stored heat for what I calculate to be only about six minutes.

I am waiting for Dave who has fitted some to tell us just how long it can actually deliver its rated output of 20 li/min @ 35°C temperature rise.

Part of its secret is that the store is heated up to about 75°C so the 15 li will heat at least twice that volume of DHW.

How is this blended down to 50 - 55C at the taps?
 
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I know you're desperate to talk about heatbanks Doc Dribble but this post is over 2 months old :LOL:
 
megawatt said:
I know you're desperate to talk about heatbanks Doc Dribble but this post is over 2 months old :LOL:

I was on about a combi, not a heat bank.
 
Just an update as I got an email on this old thread.

I got quotes on both unvented/system and the highflow and could only get 3 plumbers out of the 14 I called to actually quote on an unvented.
There were some boiler positioning issues that made for extra work flueing and moving of existing pipe etc. That brought extra costs in against the unvented option of around £1000 on all 3 quotes.

Another thing the loft conversion people mentioned was that if it was installed in the loft, the area I had marked down for placement could actually be made usable space and the little wall there would be replaced.
It would also have to come out as the new structural floor would have to run underneath it so it would be put in and then removed, new floor and then put back. Extra cost and definate loss of water during that period.

I gave up on that idea and decided to go with the highflow as it's unlikely on that flow and pressure we'd see much difference between the options anyway.
The chap I found to fit it has fitted more than a dozen and has promised me he hasn't had a single call out against one so far, so we'll see.
Due for fitting in a couple of weeks.
 
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megawatt said:
You won't go far wrong with a highflow 440.
I'm sure that's right and for us it's phyically an ideal fit too so the conversion is made simpler.
 
Well it was fitted over the past few days and it's all up and running now.
Performance is pretty good but let down slightly by our water supply so I'm considering an accumulator just to keep the pressure a bit higher to get a little more uumph from the shower.

At the moment it's giving it out a bit less that our previous 1.5 bar pumped shower, still decent though. Plus we don't need constant tweaking to the temp as the cylinder water cools though so that's a bonus. Running either a hot or cold tap during the shower doesn't seem to upset the supply much either.

Still settling in and tweaking the TRV's etc but I'll update if it falls over in the first week or two.
 
Buzzark said:
The chap I found to fit it has fitted more than a dozen and has promised me he hasn't had a single call out against one so far, so we'll see.

In that case he is about due for one to fail !

Yours is not number 13 is it?

Did he clean the system?

Tony
 
Yeah, the system was thouroughly flushed out. Then filled with a cleaner and run for 24 hours, then drained and flushed again before it's final fill.

The water that came out was actually very clean anyway, still had plenty of inhibitor in it. I expected that though, I dropped a bit out and added some x100 last year and the water was clean when I bled all the rads then.

They did a very good job overall and I'm quite picky, or so I've been told. ;)
 
Buzzark said:
still had plenty of inhibitor in it.
They did a very good job overall and I'm quite picky,

How do you know that there was still plenty of inhibitor?

I am glad that you had a good job done and are happy. With a clean system the boiler has an excellent chance of being very reliable.

I hope he used a good quality inhibitor like Sentinel or Fernox!

Tony
 
Buzzark said
Yeah, the system was thouroughly flushed out. Then filled with a cleaner and run for 24 hours, then drained and flushed again before it's final fill.
Then Agile said
I hope he used a good quality inhibitor like Sentinel or Fernox!
Behave Tony , do you really think the installer is going to do all that , then throw some cheap sh*tty inhibitor in just to make himself an extra six or seven quid. Stop frightening people :rolleyes:
 
Hi we had new worchester bosch 42cdi combi fitted last april it is loosing preassure and we need to re preassurerise it once a month ,does anyone know what the problem is?
thanks.
 
It's a pretty old thread you dug up here nalle59 and one that's not really related to your problem either?

I suggest you start a new thread if you want further advice.

Basically you have a leak somewhere. That will either be in your existing radiator systems or pipework, or within the boiler.
It's most likely that it's within the existing pipework, especially if you've come from a vented system (header tank in the loft, lower pressure).
That said my brother had the same issue and after letting it stay like that without complaining for a couple of years, it seems there was a leaking faulty part from day 1 in the boiler a WB 35CDII.

I may as well update on the original topic - so far the Highflow 440 has been pretty good but I suspect we have an intermittant fault with the DHW flow switch as occasionally the first time you turn the tap in the morning (even to full) it doesn't trigger the switch. Turning the tap off and back on again cures it but it's only happened a couple of times so far.
 
It may not be a leak ... The EV may need pressurising and you may be losing pressure (and water) through the PRV.

Easily checked without need for any equipment ... Re-pressurise and bleed the system in accordance with WB guidance, stretch a balloon over the outlet pipe from the PRV and run the system for a month.

If water is being expelled from the PRV the balloon won't be on the end of the pipe when you go to check.

If you do have the necessary pressure guage/footpump simply de-pressurise the system completely and check the air pressure on the EV in accordance with WB recommendation.

Top up if necessary and re-pressurise.

MW
 

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