1. Visiting from the US? Why not try DIYnot.US instead? Click here to continue to DIYnot.US.
    Dismiss Notice

Worcester Greenstar Junior 28i leaking - advice needed

Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by guido21, 23 Mar 2015.

  1. guido21

    guido21

    Joined:
    23 Mar 2015
    Messages:
    4
    Thanks Received:
    1
    Location:
    Derbyshire
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Hi all, I'll try to keep this as brief as possible and thanks to everyone in advance that can offer advice. I have a Worcester Bosch greenstar Junior 28i combi boiler fitted mid 2011. It's leaking from the 'unused port' situated just on top of/behind the flow turbine on the return manifold (on the right side of the pump when looking at at it) . Luckily the water is running down the back and not forward onto the diverter valve or any other electrics. I have ordered a new return manifold which appears to include new O rings etc and have silicone grease.

    The service manual says to 'ensure the appliance is fully drained', remove the syphon and then remove the hydraulic block. I can see that once the hydraulic block is out it would just be remove/refit the return manifold from the block and then put everything back.

    It all seems straight-forward enough but I just wanted to confirm the correct procedure for fully draining the appliance prior to removing the syphon and hydraulic block. Is it a simple case of closing all the isolator valves and draining the system using the drain port (which is part of the assembly being replaced) or is there more to it? I've searched for guides but the only results I've found are general guides on how to drain radiators etc. Is there anything else that needs to be done beforehand (besides the other obvious this like turning off power and gas etc)?
     
  2. Sponsored Links
  3. Agile

    Agile

    Joined:
    26 Jun 2004
    Messages:
    63,744
    Thanks Received:
    4,549
    Location:
    London
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    I have to say that Worcester boilers are not very easy to work on.

    Most professionals would try to avoid the job that you are contemplating.

    Having said that it is not rocket science and quite doable with care.

    have you considered why its leaking?

    Tony
     
  4. boilerdoktor

    boilerdoktor

    Joined:
    14 May 2009
    Messages:
    2,801
    Thanks Received:
    1,196
    Location:
    Tintagel cornwall
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    I dont think you get a flow adapter with the manifold supplied which is probably the part causing the leak.

    In any event its a very easy fix, shouldn t take you much more than half hour
     
  5. guido21

    guido21

    Joined:
    23 Mar 2015
    Messages:
    4
    Thanks Received:
    1
    Location:
    Derbyshire
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Thanks for he reply, if the flow adapter is the part causing the leak would the water be rising up out of the unused port? I hope so as this looks like a much easier fix! :)
     
  6. guido21

    guido21

    Joined:
    23 Mar 2015
    Messages:
    4
    Thanks Received:
    1
    Location:
    Derbyshire
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    Righto, removed the flow adapter and it basically disintegrated in my hand, I cleaned the bits out of the return manifold and fitted a new adapter wit fresh O rings but it's still leaking out of the unused port!!(but not nearly as much) I can only assume that the plastic in the housing is also crumbling so it's looks like I'm back to plan A :( . The adapter defo needed replacing though so thanks for pointing that out.
     
  7. guido21

    guido21

    Joined:
    23 Mar 2015
    Messages:
    4
    Thanks Received:
    1
    Location:
    Derbyshire
    Country:
    United Kingdom
    I just thought I'd answer my own question in case anyone else stumbles upon this... The culprit was the return unit as suspected (part No. 8 716 106 442 0) and the PRV was also leaking. To replace it I removed the hydraulic block to make t easier to work on. The replacement part only comes with the seals and O rings for the return side, not the flow unit side which is at least partially disturbed when removing the block so i replaced the seals on that side also. It may be possible to replace the return unit without removing the block but there's not much room to work inside the unit, a pro may be able to confirm this.

    Either way, it came out and went back in fine and it's working as it should now although I wouldn't recommend doing this yourself if you can afford to pay someone else to do it (but this is a DIY forum after all) I'm astounded this thing works at all as the internals seem to be little more than tinfoil and plastic. When the next inevitable, expensive failure occurs I'll likely be replacing the whole unit with something better or at least with a longer warranty. The guys at the heating spares shop weren't too impressed with the modern Worcesters either although I noticed they had one on the wall as a display model....
     
    • Thanks Thanks x 1
  8. DIYnot Local

    DIYnot Local

    Joined:
    3 Sep 2019
    Country:
    United Kingdom

    If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

    Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


    Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

     
  9. Sponsored Links
Loading...

Share This Page