Worcester heatslave 12/14 lockout,how do i bleed the boiler?

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Hi,

Please help.
I have recently moved into rented accomodation, know nothing about oil heaters & this appears to be quite an old one!!

I understand from research online that i need to bleed the boiler as the fuel ran out while still ignited.
I have had a delivery
I have had tried to re-start
But really is too much air in i feel as is dead as a dodo.

Could someone please tell me how to go about bleeding this particular boiler & what the bleed tap/screa looks like.
As i have tried to have a go but cant seem to allocate the correct part.

Please help.
Its cold!
 
Apologies the full name for this boiler is;

Worcester Combi Heatslave 12/14
 
If you disconnect the oil supply pipe just before it enters the house (by the filter) you can release the air in the pipe. If the tank is low down, you may have to suck the air out. :mrgreen: Then inside the house, remove the flexible connection pipe from the boiler and hold it in a large container until the oil flows through. Close the valve, reconnect and try again.
 
Nomini - as you cannot even tell the difference between electrical cables and copper pipes PLEASE get someone competent to do this before you gas/drown/electrocute/burn yourself....
 
Hi,

Thank you for the advice sparkyspike- i shall have a go.

i'm quite a practical woman but don't worry - ban-all-sheds.
I do know my limitations but refuse to pay for an extortionate bill.

Being a working single mothert of 1, if i can fix it myself. I will try.
As i do not have the luxury of paying for someone to come out.
& as stated earlier. It is cold! Very cold.

Kind regards,
Nomini.
 
Not an expert on oil, but which burner does your boiler have?

The bleed point is different for each one.

If from how you have descibed your installation, your boiler/burner is higher than the outlet on the tank, you have probably got a tiger loop fitted, in which case this could have blocked with some carp when the oil ran out.
 
I am guessing you have a Bentone burner. This will be in a silver coloured box. The oil pump is the black part roughly in the middle of the burner. Turn off the power. Look for a red handled valve on the oil pipe on the top surface of the silver box. Place a tray under the pump and remove the nut marked "P". You will need a 4mm allen key for this. Turn on the oil, and froth should run out of the hole. Wait until oil comes out with no bubbles, turn off the oil, refit the plug, clean up the spilt oil (well I spill it).

Turn on the oil again and ensure NO oil weeps from the pump plug. This is important as it will be under pressure when the burner is running. If it's ok, turn on the power and try it out.

If you get an oil leak, you will have to turn off the oil and get someone in.
 
do you mean the red handle that snaps off? :lol:

and of course the inevitable leak from sov after after managing to turn it with adj?

:oops: :oops: :oops: :lol:
 
As oilman says, your burner unit is inside an aluminium box at the bottom of the boiler. You unclip this by pulling the lugs on the side of the box towards you and lifting it clear. The oil supply pipe enters the boiler at the back and there will be a tap on the top of the burner unit. From this tap there is a flexible steel braided pipe that leads to the all inportant oil pressure pump (BFP 41 I think?). With all oil taps open, undo the nut that is on the end of the flexible pipe (17mm spanner or an adjustable type) but don't undo it completely. Oil should start to drip out.....don't let it collect - mop it up with kitchen paper. Once the oil supply seems to be free of air, tighten the nut again. You'll see the red light is on,on the control box. When you are ready to try to start up, press the button that the light illuminates (all boiler switches on) - and cross fingers that the thing will light up. If it doesn't, try bleeding once more. The burner won't light immediately - it 'purges' the system with air for about 6 seconds before ignition. Good luck! Cheers John
 
Makes a play on that TV advert......'a new fragrance by Diesel' :? just a spash behind the ears makes the women wild :D Doesn't work for me though :?
 
Hi chaps,

Thank you to all that offered some advice.
I ended up getting someone in - luckily...

as whoever serviced boiler had put the incorrect pipes on.
What should have been copper pipe was flexi and vice versa - so i could have really done some damage!

Turns out that there has been a water leak into fan & fan is really stiff & unable to turn freely. Need to order a new one.

Any ideas as to where i can order one?
As this is an old boiler & is now discontinued.

Nomini.
 
Hi Nomini

You need to look to see whether the burner is (as oilman) suggested a Bentone. It will will be either a B9 or B11. The motors are freely available for these as are the rest of the parts. If the original problem was that the boiler made no "running" noise when you tried to start it, then this (or a seized fuel pump were the most likely suspects).
Have to wonder why the fella didn't get the replacement while he was "fixing" the rest.
The Heatslave is not that old a boiler compared to some 30+ years old monsters that I still service!

As you're in rented accommodation is this your responsibility to sort out or the landlords?
 
I'm sorry you have been plagued by a waste of space. The water in the fan is unlikely, it is probably just stiff bearings, I carry loads so that noisy or stiff motors are dealt with on the spot.

I think it would be a good idea to speak to your landlord, as suggested. A motor will cost around £90 plus fitting. New bearings, fitted, should be cheaper than just the motor cost.

Anyone who tells you a boiler old and discontinued should be viewed with suspicion. This one is discontinued, but the parts will be available for decades as they are used in many other boilers.

Try the Oftec website and search for a technician. They should ask a few detailed questions if they are any good.
 

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