Worktop - First Time

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I was about to tackle the job of fitting new worktops when I came across this excellent forum. I was a bit alarmed and dismayed that most of the advice to another member who was about to undertake the same job, was for him to not even consider it and get a pro in to cut the joints.
Undaunted however, I bought myself a jig and borrowed a router from a friend. (I had bought a router from Argos but returned it, unused, when I discovered that the 30mm guide was in fact a 33mm guide).

After three or four practise cuts, made on some old unit doors, and after dozens of measurement checks, I dived in the deep end and made my first cut. It looked good so I then tackled the ‘male’ cut and it was a perfect match. All three of the joints I had to make turned out ok. Even the one that I had to cut a bit off the straight because one corner of the kitchen was not at a right angle. I had also to attach a three inch off-cut to a length of worktop to widen it.

When fitting the new worktops, I very quickly found that holding the clamping bolts in place while trying to tighten them, was, to put it mildly, a wee bit infuriating. So I was forced to think up a way to make that job a bit easier. (Photos attached)

Anyway, I am more that pleased with the results and would say to anyone who feels competent enough to tackle the job themselves, go for it. Who knows, it might just work out alright.

Cheers

Fergie.


Worktop-joint-%28R%29-w.jpg

The only bond/sealer I could get was white. Using sand paper on a scrap piece of worktop, I produced some dust that was rubbed into the joint while doing the final wipe over with solvent.

Worktop-joint-%28L-1%29-w.jpg


To help with fiting the bolts, I drilled two holes on one flange.
Flange-01-w.jpg


After inserting the bolt, I selected two 1/2" tacks
Flange-02-w.jpg


The tacks were sharp enough to be thumb pressed into place.
Flange-03-w.jpg


The using the flat side of a screw driver, they were driven home.
Flange-04-w.jpg


I found this toi be very helpful in fitting the bolt but I'm sure that many of you will have been doing this for years.
Flange-05-w.jpg


This is the three inch strip that I fitted to the worktop edge.
Worktop-edge-w.jpg
 
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Very impressive indeed.

Any tips you can give me as I'm going to have to fit some worktops once my extension gets finished.

When you say male cut, what sort of cuts are you doing for the work surface. If I'm honest I haven’t got a clue where to start with fitting worktops, but I'm one of these people that want to do everything myself if possible so I would love to just go out and by a small piece or work top and try and make something up for practice before I have to do the real thing.
 
Not much I can give you in the 'tips' catagory, as this was my first attempt and I wouldn't class myself as an 'overnight expert'.
What I did do though, was to go on-line with Google and simply type in and search for 'fitting worktops'.
You can open two of the very helpful sites I found by clicking on Here and/or Here

I would advise getting yourself a reasonably good quality cutting bit for your router. The jig that I bought came with a cutting bit that lost its sharpness very quickly.

Unfortunately, I am a fair distance away from Essex, otherwise I would gladly offer some 'hands-on' help.

Sorry I can't be more infomative.

Cheers.

Fergie.
 
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Thanks for your kind words Bahco. It's nice to know that I have done something reasonably right fror a change.
 
I also tried a way of helping to hold and line up a joint that really needed three hands.

Brackets.jpg


Cheers

Fergy
 
Well done mate!
I have always avoided this part of kitchen fitting and used edge bars to finish off.
You have now inspired me to try it out and I will. "any thing once" used to be my middle names. Exactly which adhesive did you use?

;)
 
Thank you for your kind words savilleorange.

Sorry but I don't recall the brand name of the adhesive but the worktop supplier will have it in stock and in a colour to match your choice of worktop. It's about four or five pounds per tube and a tube only does one joint although I managed three joints with two tubes.


Cheers.
 
i've just done this same job with a wooden worktop, but with the assistance of a joiner.

he mentioned a technique similar to yours for holding the brackets in place, but a bit simpler

he screwed in a couple of short screws over the bracket flange (without drilling out holes) and said this held everything fine.

In my case, we simply scrunched a piece of paper, shoved it in the hole by the end of the bracket and put a strip of duct tape over the rout.

worked a treat!

tighten up, rip off tape, and job's a good-un!

your joints are excellent, buy the way.
 
Nicely done mate! I've seen "professional" jobs that haven't looked as good as what you've managed! :)
 
the best tip i can give when fitting worktops is to make sure you always cut from left to right and to always have your your best edge on the left hand side as to avoid damaging worktop

Banger
 
Nice job fergie,

looks like you've figured it out nicely. Don't do that many worktops these days but what I've found useful if you have the kit is to use a couple of biscuits along any joins (don't need a dedicated biscuit joiner as you can buy a bit for the router, just a lot easier with the joiner). This helps to keep the top surfaces lined up and strengthens the joint. You do need to be accurate though as the biscuits largely remove the ability to further aligne the top surfaces once installed. However, jointing worktops is all about carefull setting out and accuracy in general so I'm sure that wouldn't be a problem for you. Only other tip- make sure router has stopped before lifting it off the template otherwise you could 'nick' one of the edges. This 'nick' then gets transferred via the guide bush to anything you later try and cut with the template. Can be an expensive lesson. :cry:

regards

jeff
 
Nice job. As a pro, I have never seen the nails in the end technique and I've been fitting these for 25yrs. You never need them if the joint is biscuited or has a loose tongue but I will remember this in case I ever have use for it.
 
Hi there, looks like you have done a fair job of those but I noticed on your second photo, it looks as if the laminate has broken away on the right hand worktop. If that is the case, when you use the router to cut the tops you must ensure that the cutting direction of the cutter, should always cut towards the laminate, this will stop the laminate breaking away. to do this on one cut, you would have the mitre block on the top of the worksurface and when cutting the adjoining work top you attach the mitre block to the underside of the work surface. Hope this helps for future projects...:eek:)
 

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