Zone Valve

[Schiehallion]

Hi

I noticed a couple of weeks ago, that occasionally my radiators were not warm when they should be. I worked out that if I moved the lever on the zone valve to manual that the boiler kicked in and they bcame warm.

A friend suggested that I replace the synchronous motor on the top, it should fix the problem. I got one from a supplier yesterday and fitted it, bu this afternoon, I had to put the lever to manual to get them to come on.

Should I have bough the whole valve, or is there something else I have to do?

Thanks

Michael

 

[gas4you]

I personally never fit just the motors, always the entire head. I have found that it is the micro switch in the head that breaks more often.

Depending on the valve make and model, you may be able to replace just the head, then you will have a spare synchron motor

 

[namsag]

3 port valve or a 2 port . when you move the lever does it then motor over or do you have to hook it in the manual position.
Also make sure power is actually going through the roomstat

 

[Schiehallion]

Hi Guys

Thanks for the replies. I am at work just now, so cannot physically check, but I think it is a two port valve.

I do not have a room stat as every radiator has it's own thermostat. Not sure how long it takes the lever to go back to the auto position from me moving it to manual, but every time I have had to move it, it has been from the auto position.

Cheers

Michael

 

[swbjackson]

Did you check that the valve was getting power before you changed the motor? You should get a live on the brown wire to the heating valve from the room stat. The grey should be a permanent live and the orange becomes live when the valve opens. If you have no live on the brown then look to the room stat or programmer.

Mike

 

[Tipper]

I personally never fit just the motors, always the entire head. I have found that it is the micro switch in the head that breaks more often.

Depending on the valve make and model, you may be able to replace just the head, then you will have a spare synchron motor

Exactly, well said.

 

[Schiehallion]

Hi

Thanks for the replies. The actuator that is on it is a Randall HP2. I had a look at a screw**x catalogue this morning and all the actuators with valves have compression couplings on the valve, whereas the one I have has female threads in the castings. As the valve works manually, I am taking it as read that it is not at fault.

I see from some of the merchants sites that I can buy the complete actuator head without the valve. They all seem to be 5 wire, where mine has four... blue and brown to the motor and grey and orange I assume go to the microswitch that someone mentioned earlier. Is it okay to buy a five wire model or do I need to look for a four wire one?

Many thanks

Michael

 

[swbjackson]

The five wire will normally have an extra white wire that is not needed in most instances, just make it electrically safe.

Mike

 

[Schiehallion]

Hi Mike

Thanks for your quick reply. Are any particular models better than others?

Cheers

Michael

 

[Schiehallion]

Hi

I bought an actuator head from one of the merchants a few days ago, However it is the wrong size for the valve. The valve that is in use at present is a danfoss/Randall which had female threads in the casting rather than the more common compression couplings which seem to be used now.

When I opened the junction box to disconnect the old actuator wiring, I discovered that I only have a live and a neautral going to the motor. The wires that should go to the micro switch mentioned in an earlier reply have been cut back inside the junction box.

I have two questions.... Should I be worried about the way it is wired, and is it still possible to get the old type valve with the female thread each side of the casting?


Michael