Rendering

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I picked up the sklil of plastering a few years ago and have done full houses, however I have never rendered. Well at least on my own, I have done one job with a friend but I was mainly mixing and rubbing up. Is there much difference ? I am thinking of getting k render and tackling my house on my own, do you get more time to get the finish with this product than sand and cement and is the base coat essential as it is not cheap ?
 
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, do you get more time to get the finish with this product than sand and cement and is the base coat essential as it is not cheap ?
ive never used k rend but a few months ago i drove past a spread who looked like he was putting k rend on a sand and cement basecoat, which ive never heard of b4 and curiosity got the better of me so i phoned Kilwaughter up and ask if thats possible and was told that yes some people are using sand and cement as a basecoat "BUT" they wouldent garentee there product if you were to use this method.
 
My mates house got k rend erd . The fella that did it went over the original house with cement render first to straighten up the brickwork as there wall a large block extension the full width of the house on the back. The result is very good, been on a good few years now and you couldnt tell where the old ended and the new started at all.

The guy basically launched the k rend on one day and then the next day he rubbed it back with a render scratching float (a massive gang nail plate which has a handle attached).
 
Brilliant well I can definetely do the base coat, yes I heard that they said if you dont use there base coat you dont get tghe 30 year guarantee. So it the next day you rub up, seem to get alot longer then so should imagine it easier than sand and cement .

What additives would you use, I was thining a SBR for wall then adding plastizer and abit of waterproofer for the cement mix ?
 
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What additives would you use, I was thining a SBR for wall then adding plastizer and abit of waterproofer for the cement mix ?
its your call cooper, if its brick your going onto i would use a waterproofer in the scratchcoat---"BUT" do you need waterproofer? i dont know because you are going to use the k rend top coat and as i say ive never done it, i dont know what water proofing qualities the k rend has or weather the waterproofer in your scratchcoat will have any effects on the k rend i also see looking at the instructions on the k rend site that you can get away with doing 1 coat of k rend but in 2 passes (without base coat) but this is on block, i would suggest reading this link and phoning the phone number up thats on the bottom and asking them what the best method to use is, i found them quite helpful when i phoned them http://www.k-rend.co.uk/media/Application Instructions K Rend.pdf
 
I use weber pral m quite a lot and its similar to k rend but just a different manufacturer, to be honest its not that hard to do, and ts easier to get a good finish than with sand and cement render, Dont bother with a basecoat of sand and cement as it will only slow you down, monocouche render (one coat) is easy do do so go for it plus it looks great when on the wall.
 
I use weber pral m quite a lot and its similar to k rend but just a different manufacturer, to be honest its not that hard to do, and ts easier to get a good finish than with sand and cement render, Dont bother with a basecoat of sand and cement as it will only slow you down, monocouche render (one coat) is easy do do so go for it plus it looks great when on the wall.
imperial, can i ask a couple of questions? 1st when your scraping back with the nail float how would you stop the weber from spalling by the angle beads as the instruction on the web site says this might happen?
2nd can you mix it with a whisk and cement mixer the same as k rend? 3rd and also because its done in 1 hit can you get like ghosting seeing the blocks underneath like you may do with render?
im sure this info will be usful for the op as well :)
 
Make sure you put the render 3mm more than bead and lightly rub down to bead to stop spalling, (obviously use plastic bead) Ive never had a problem. Yes you can mix weber pral with a mechanical wisk , for 5- 10 mins. You dont get ghosting from the blocks if you put it on thick enough (16mm minimum) but you can get ghosting if when scraping back you scrape back to first pass, this is common if first coat is all over the place so make sure to level off to a even depth I normally put 1st pass on in 10-12mm and level off then on the same day put second pass on 8-10mm . then scrape off 3mm either same day or morning after depends on weather !
 
Make sure you put the render 3mm more than bead and lightly rub down to bead to stop spalling, (obviously use plastic bead) Ive never had a problem. Yes you can mix weber pral with a mechanical wisk , for 5- 10 mins. You dont get ghosting from the blocks if you put it on thick enough (16mm minimum) but you can get ghosting if when scraping back you scrape back to first pass, this is common if first coat is all over the place so make sure to level off to a even depth I normally put 1st pass on in 10-12mm and level off then on the same day put second pass on 8-10mm . then scrape off 3mm either same day or morning after depends on weather !

Couple of questions, when you say first pass do you mean first coatof 10 - 12 mm then second pass another coat of 8 - 10mm ? So you have to do 2 caots ? Also what tool do you use for scraping ? Thanks
 
Make sure you put the render 3mm more than bead and lightly rub down to bead to stop spalling, (obviously use plastic bead) Ive never had a problem. Yes you can mix weber pral with a mechanical wisk , for 5- 10 mins. You dont get ghosting from the blocks if you put it on thick enough (16mm minimum) but you can get ghosting if when scraping back you scrape back to first pass, this is common if first coat is all over the place so make sure to level off to a even depth I normally put 1st pass on in 10-12mm and level off then on the same day put second pass on 8-10mm . then scrape off 3mm either same day or morning after depends on weather !

Couple of questions, when you say first pass do you mean first coatof 10 - 12 mm then second pass another coat of 8 - 10mm ? So you have to do 2 caots ? Also what tool do you use for scraping ? Thanks
you would use a nail float to scrape back http://www.insulationexpress.co.uk/Hand-Tools/Weber-Nail-Float.htm
 
Make sure you put the render 3mm more than bead and lightly rub down to bead to stop spalling, (obviously use plastic bead) Ive never had a problem. Yes you can mix weber pral with a mechanical wisk , for 5- 10 mins. You dont get ghosting from the blocks if you put it on thick enough (16mm minimum) but you can get ghosting if when scraping back you scrape back to first pass, this is common if first coat is all over the place so make sure to level off to a even depth I normally put 1st pass on in 10-12mm and level off then on the same day put second pass on 8-10mm . then scrape off 3mm either same day or morning after depends on weather !
cheers m8
 
Couple of questions, when you say first pass do you mean first coatof 10 - 12 mm then second pass another coat of 8 - 10mm ? So you have to do 2 caots ? Also what tool do you use for scraping ? Thanks
. Although you put it on in 2 passes its classed as one coat because it sets as one, you cannot put a coat on one day and a coat on the second day because its designed to go off together to create one coat , the maximum you can leave between passes is 16 hours but in the summer this time is shortened, the idea is to put second pass on whilst first is still going off and not gone off !!
 
Make sure you put the render 3mm more than bead and lightly rub down to bead to stop spalling, (obviously use plastic bead) Ive never had a problem. Yes you can mix weber pral with a mechanical wisk , for 5- 10 mins. You dont get ghosting from the blocks if you put it on thick enough (16mm minimum) but you can get ghosting if when scraping back you scrape back to first pass, this is common if first coat is all over the place so make sure to level off to a even depth I normally put 1st pass on in 10-12mm and level off then on the same day put second pass on 8-10mm . then scrape off 3mm either same day or morning after depends on weather !

Couple of questions, when you say first pass do you mean first coatof 10 - 12 mm then second pass another coat of 8 - 10mm ? So you have to do 2 caots ? Also what tool do you use for scraping ? Thanks
you would use a nail float to scrape back http://www.insulationexpress.co.uk/Hand-Tools/Weber-Nail-Float.htm[/QUOTE]

Thanks, And when you scrape of second pass with the nail float this gives you a smooth finish ?
 
Make sure you put the render 3mm more than bead and lightly rub down to bead to stop spalling, (obviously use plastic bead) Ive never had a problem. Yes you can mix weber pral with a mechanical wisk , for 5- 10 mins. You dont get ghosting from the blocks if you put it on thick enough (16mm minimum) but you can get ghosting if when scraping back you scrape back to first pass, this is common if first coat is all over the place so make sure to level off to a even depth I normally put 1st pass on in 10-12mm and level off then on the same day put second pass on 8-10mm . then scrape off 3mm either same day or morning after depends on weather !

Couple of questions, when you say first pass do you mean first coatof 10 - 12 mm then second pass another coat of 8 - 10mm ? So you have to do 2 caots ? Also what tool do you use for scraping ? Thanks
you would use a nail float to scrape back http://www.insulationexpress.co.uk/Hand-Tools/Weber-Nail-Float.htm[/QUOTE]

Thanks, And when you scrape of second pass with the nail float this gives you a smooth finish ?
no the finish will be like this which is good looking if you ask me http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgu...&sa=X&ei=qfgaT_fBMIjoOdTrqMIE&ved=0CEgQ9QEwAw
 
Will it still get a smooth finish in two pases going over dash or will I need a base coat ?
 

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