Is this really a Damp Proof?

rob82 · 15 May 2009

Hi everyone.

I've just had a damp proof membrane fitted today. I'm not a damp proof expert, but i thought there would be a bit more to it that running a roll of plastic around the walls and drilling it in to place. I know the materials aren't cheap (although they don't look like they cost the earth), but £600 for 2 hours does seem like a lot of money.

Also, is the plastic meant to meet the floor everywhere and does it matter that there's holes a splits in it? The damp proofer says not.

Here are some photos of the work, so any feedback is appreciated. I'm not trying to get out of paying the bill, i just want the job to be done right, but maybe i'm expecting too much.

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Thanks in advance,

Rob

freddiemercurystwin · 15 May 2009

This o'l chestnut!

It certainly is and when installed corectly is very effective, a bit like this one: http://www.newton-membranes.co.uk/System500.htm
Have a read through this thread //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=176030&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

rob82 · 15 May 2009

Thank you for your very quick reply and those links are very interesting.

This membrane is only running around the first floor and not in a cellar, so there's not really a great deal of damp coming through, but the external ground level is still slightly higher than the internal. We thought it was a good idea to fit a damp proof and the mortgage companies like to see one.

Our membrane doesn't look like all the pretty pictures in the magazines and what annoys me, is that i know i would have done a much better job myself, as i would have taken due care and attention to every detail. It's full of holes and splits, and in one place it doesn't meet the floor by 8cm's. This concerns me because the ground level is higher outside, so it actually feels really damp there.

Where do i stand now? The damp proofer says it's fine, but is it really?

freddiemercurystwin · 15 May 2009

Its not going to make a lot of difference whether it comes right down to the floor, normally it would have a special vent profile that sits at the bottom of the membrane against the wall that sits behind the skirting. This allows the air gap behind the membrane to breathe. What they've done looks a bit ragged, there's no need to have any splits on snags in it and the laps should be about 100mm, certainly no gaps, just shoddy workmanship really. A full description of what they should have ideally done can be found in the links already posted or the manufacturer will have a website I expect. Who is the manufacturer: is there any packaging left over or writing on the membrane? It will probably be ok but for £600 I'd expect perfection and these systems aren't brain surgery so there's no excuses really. What area did they do for that? Have you paid him? I take it the knobs are facing the wall? The last photy looks like the knobs are facing into the room! How did you end up choosing this system?

rob82 · 16 May 2009

Hi and thanks again.

I will check if there's any writing on it, but searching through google and what paperwork i have, i believe it's a Triton Platon System. I was going to contact them on Monday and see if i could get a "best practice" and installation guide.

The rooms covered were two rooms each measuring 3 x 3 metres.

Payment is on 30 days, so i would like to get all the information first, before this time elapses.

All the knobs are facing the wall, at least!

We were told that because the external ground level is slightly higher, our damp problem was due to water penetration, so we would need a membrane rather than injections............ Is this not the case? He also advised that because the walls do not have a cavity, injection would not be suitable.

We got three quotes from the three different companies and they all came in at roughly the same price. This one seemed to be the most straight forward and spoke the most sense.

Many thanks again and hopefully one day i may be able to contribute on this website, rather than asking all the questions!

freddiemercurystwin · 16 May 2009

You'll find a fair bit of installation info on their website: http://www.triton-chemicals.co.uk/prod1.php#p1 Ring them on Monday and ask to send them photos for their comment, then you'll be well informed when you speak to the fitters. Opinions are mixed with regards to injecting walls and keeping damp out, I'd always prefer a membrane though although tbh I'm not overly convinced, if water's getting through the wall its likely to want to get through the floor too and it apears that you're not putting down a new slab on a new dpm? Was/has the floor been damp? Goodluck.

chriscardiff · 19 May 2009

rob82 said:
Hi and thanks again.

I will check if there's any writing on it, but searching through google and what paperwork i have, i believe it's a Triton Platon System. I was going to contact them on Monday and see if i could get a "best practice" and installation guide.

The rooms covered were two rooms each measuring 3 x 3 metres.

Payment is on 30 days, so i would like to get all the information first, before this time elapses.

All the knobs are facing the wall, at least!

We were told that because the external ground level is slightly higher, our damp problem was due to water penetration, so we would need a membrane rather than injections............ Is this not the case? He also advised that because the walls do not have a cavity, injection would not be suitable.

We got three quotes from the three different companies and they all came in at roughly the same price. This one seemed to be the most straight forward and spoke the most sense.

Many thanks again and hopefully one day i may be able to contribute on this website, rather than asking all the questions!

Doesnt look very tidy, and to be honest, i would have recommened a wet render system! Membrane's are quick to put up when batoned and boarded, but if the ground level is only slightly higher, you would have been better of installing the DPC 150mm above the ground level, and using two coats of 6/1/1 300mm past the last sign of damp.

The installation, as stated by freddy should overlap, as water will find the path of least resistance, but tbh, in an above ground level scenario, water penetration is hardly likely, as there is no hydrostatic pressure.

This should be a simple job, membrane, baton, plasterboard, job done! Although the wall will still remain hygroscopic, the membrane will stop anything from coming thorugh!

rob82 · 22 May 2009

Hi guys and thank you again.

I had both the damp proofer and the local rep from triton Chemicals round today. I think they are both in agreement that it's below standard and the rep highlighted everything that needs to be to rectify it.

The damp proofer has said he'll send some guys round to finish it off properly, including digging a channel for any run off from the dampest wall.

At this moment, it looks like we may get a reasonable job done, but it annoys me that it wasn't done right first time and the completed job will be a patch up one.

I guess you live and learn and i'm incredibly grateful for both of your comments, because they gave us the confidence to argue our case.

Many thanks

Rob

freddiemercurystwin · 22 May 2009

Goodluck!

gregers · 22 May 2009

this is proof where the internet can help,a little knowledge goes a long way.
just think how many he has done EXACTLY like yours and got away with inferior workmanship.dont forget to ask him for a decent discount for the trauma etc you have suffered

freddiemercurystwin · 22 May 2009

gregers said:
this is proof where the internet can help,a little knowledge goes a long way.
just think how many he has done EXACTLY like yours and got away with inferior workmanship.dont forget to ask him for a decent discount for the trauma etc you have suffered

What's sad though is you know he'll likely just carry on as before.

gregers · 22 May 2009

yeah i agree,wonder if once your job has been rectified wether its worth complaining to the trade and standards peeps about him.coz you can bet the suppilers of said product wont do jack 5h1te about it.

chriscardiff · 23 May 2009

You may want to check that the guy is registered with the BWPDA (bristish wood preservation damp association). Triton, (techincally) should only sell their products to qualified professionals!

The problem with these smaller damp proofing companies is that they are just not qualified to specifiy these sort of waterproofing jobs! To be honest mate, you dont even need a drainage channel if the ground levels are under no hydrostatic pressure. I assume the system will be relying on natural drainage? That system is basically there to deal with the problems of hygroscopic salts that you get when you have problems with rising damp!

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Is this really a Damp Proof?

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