Crafty's shed installation

Steve · 8 Mar 2006

For those of you who remember, a while ago I was on about wiring my shed. I ordered some things (CU, SWA and accessories) the other day from TLC direct, they got delivered today, cos i was out yesterday. top service. Its a little wet for digging for the cable today, so i decided to fit the consumer unit in the shed:

I bought the 4-way unit with a 63A 30mA RCD incomer. At the shed i will have a 32A ring main (sorry ban) and a 6A lighting circuit (2 fluorescents and a 150w PIR). These have already been wired and i have tested for continuity on the ring main. I made sure to connect the neutrals and earths in MCB order.

I was going to terminate the SWA onto the CU itself, but now I have actually seen and got a feel for the cable (stiffer than i thought!), i shall mount a metal box next to the CU and leave the central cable long to feed into the CU. I will practise terminating the armour of the SWA, but if i dont get the hang of it, i will call an electrician to do this and the testing. Will post more pictures as i get the jobs done.

Do feel free to comment on the install - things you might do differently, or things i have got wrong

(hopefully nothing)

andy · 8 Mar 2006

what size SWA are you using? smaller stuff usually goes into plastic OK, providing there isnt too much stress on it (i.e it doesnt bend out of the CU)

Steve · 8 Mar 2006

andy said:
what size SWA are you using? smaller stuff usually goes into plastic OK, providing there isnt too much stress on it (i.e it doesnt bend out of the CU)

6mm² 3 core. It would either have to go on the right side of the CU (and bend downwards) or on the far right of the bottom (straight down).

Also, using a 32A MCB at the house, non-RCD.

andy · 8 Mar 2006

either you cant drill 2 holes next to each other level, or the CU is pi**ed

Hightowermark · 8 Mar 2006

What make Cu is it Crafty, And what about weatherproof?

Steve · 8 Mar 2006

andy said:
either you cant drill 2 holes next to each other level, or the CU is pi**ed

if you're referring to the holes in the board at the back, they aren't level i know, but does it really matter when you aren't going to see it anyway? The CU is level. EDIT: i think they were drilled like that because there is a diagonal strut behind that board, and this was how to avoid it. They were done aaages ago.

Hightowermark said:
What make Cu is it Crafty, And what about weatherproof?

Hager. Its in the shed. Doesn't need to be weatherproof, so i understand.

Hightowermark · 8 Mar 2006

Thanks Crafty, was not asking why just curious why you did'nt have a weatherproof one.

Steve · 8 Mar 2006

Couple of questions.

1. Why dont metal adaptable boxes come with screws?

2. Why dont metal adaptable boxes come with an integral earth terminal?

Would it be acceptable to earth the metal box using the banjo on the SWA end, fixed on the inside of the box? Here's what i'm thinking: Connect flylead to the banjo inside the box, connect this to a terminal block, and then to the earth core from the T+E. Would this be sufficient to earth the metal box AND the SWA?

andy · 8 Mar 2006

crafty1289 said:
Couple of questions.

1. Why dont metal adaptable boxes come with screws?

2. Why dont metal adaptable boxes come with an integral earth terminal?

Would it be acceptable to earth the metal box using the banjo on the SWA end, fixed on the inside of the box? Here's what i'm thinking: Connect flylead to the banjo inside the box, connect this to a terminal block, and then to the earth core from the T+E. Would this be sufficient to earth the metal box AND the SWA?

1: they dont know where you want it

2: yes, perfectly acceptable

and remember, if the lid overhangs the edge, leave a gfap between the boxes. last time i had to take a grinder to the lid....

comms · 9 Mar 2006

You say your going to use a 32amp mcb at the house, but you have a 32amp ring in the shed, what about discrimination between the two in the event of a fault ?

Qedelec · 9 Mar 2006

Crafty, is it my imagination or can we see some bare copper on the phase conductors where they enter the MCB's?

Steve · 9 Mar 2006

comms said:
You say your going to use a 32amp mcb at the house, but you have a 32amp ring in the shed, what about discrimination between the two in the event of a fault ?

I shall make the ring into a radial and replace with a 20A MCB.

Qedelec said:
Crafty, is it my imagination or can we see some bare copper on the phase conductors where they enter the MCB's?

Damn, I knew i should have replaced the cover on the CU before i took the photo!!! For the perfectionists watching, i will snip off a mm or 2 and re-do the connection to the 32A.

My question about screws earlier - I meant screws to fix the lid on the adaptable box! I would think it would have come with the screws

now i have gotta do some hunting - unfortunately my dad's rusty screw collection is becoming a bit sparse in recent years!

andy · 9 Mar 2006

crafty1289 said:
comms said:

You say your going to use a 32amp mcb at the house, but you have a 32amp ring in the shed, what about discrimination between the two in the event of a fault ?

Click to expand...

I shall make the ring into a radial and replace with a 20A MCB.

Qedelec said:

Crafty, is it my imagination or can we see some bare copper on the phase conductors where they enter the MCB's?

Click to expand...

Damn, I knew i should have replaced the cover on the CU before i took the photo!!! For the perfectionists watching, i will snip off a mm or 2 and re-do the connection to the 32A.

My question about screws earlier - I meant screws to fix the lid on the adaptable box! I would think it would have come with the screws now i have gotta do some hunting - unfortunately my dad's rusty screw collection is becoming a bit sparse in recent years!

1: why change it to a radial? just have a 20A ring

2: there should be some screws? have they not fallen out? (or are they taped to the inside of the lid and you havent looked there)

Steve · 9 Mar 2006

no, there was a complete lack of screws in the parcel.

not much point to a 20A radial, but less work i suppose . . .

What I will do: take this 32A MCB out, and replace it with the 20A MCB at the house that currently supplies the old shed (due for demolition / tragic fire / arson / implosion). Then use the 32A to supply the new shed.

andy · 9 Mar 2006

fault of 30A. will trip 20A, but not 32A. problem?

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Crafty's shed installation

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