Problem with new Intergas boiler install. HRE 18 OV

[Hufty]

Hufty, never seen these suffering from stray volts like Wooshitter Botch.... Have you?

No my feeling is it's not a problem with the boiler. It sounds to me like if the boiler gets 240v it will all run as it should, therefore my question (assuming nothing) is, is it indeed getting 240v? As it's a Y plan, is it wired up properly, which you might not notice if you fault find with a glowing screwdriver rather than a meter.

Customer: wasn't suggesting you test this yourself, it was more a question for the installer.

 

[dcuk]

Update...

Spoke to installer today, and he has been back in touch with Intergas.

He managed to talk to someone different on the technical team who he said was much more knowledgeable than the guy last week, and sounded like he actually had some hands on experience installing the boilers.

Once again, recommended checking the usual... wiring, plumbing. Installer says he has been over and tested all possible problems with the rest of the system.

I told him about the advice I received from this forum and my experiences with changing the parameters etc.

Intergas technical guy said parameter 1 should be on 1 (Central heating + DHW cylinder).

I tried this again while on phone to installer, but it acts weird.

Boiler fires up and then shuts down again randomly while everything is set to off (on the programmer) and room stat is at 0. One pipe at top got very very hot, realised this is because pump isn't on, so turned everything off completely and put settings back to factory default.

Intergas guy says it is probably a fault with the board and will be contacting me to arrange a visit from service engineer.

 

[mcmoby69]

Has an external sensor been fitted to contacts 8&9 on the low voltage side? As the boiler heats up the PCB reduces the output to the heating and cylinder. Without the sensor connected it just switches off when it gets to temperature.

 

[dcuk]

By sensor, do you mean the tank thermostat?

 

[Dan Robinson]

hhhmmm....

Difficult to go much further without seeing it, but i have never had a dead PCB out of the box. But there is a first time for everything. Unless Mr Installer has ballsed up the wiring.



Installers ALWAYS without fail think (or want the customer to think) they have crossed every t and dotted all the i's.

Mind you having said that - it is a little alarming that the tech guy said it should be setting 1.

Has the pump been wired back to the boiler? (Not essential if it hasn't)

Not sure if this has been asked/explained.... but does it work on hot water only mode? (With the boiler set to factory defaults).

 

[Dan Robinson]

8/9 is an external weather sensor.

9/10 is the hot water cylinder sensor.

6/7 is a volt free room stat (for combis really)

1 - mains voltage switch live in from external controls (timer and thermostats)

 

[dcuk]

Hi Dan.

Yes I know, and I did request that he come over again and go over each and every wire again, just to be sure.

He claims he has been through it twice already on the previous visits and knows it is all as it should be, even though one of his employees did the wiring originally.

I was surprised that the tech guy recommended setting 1 too, after what you said yesterday.

I'm not sure, I will try running it on hot water mode only and let you know how it goes.

 

[dcuk]

I did buy an external temperature sensor, but decided against fitting it as installer was told by Intergas sales rep that the sensor isn't ideal for the Open Vented model.

I have also read previous threads where it made boilers act funny, so I wasn't too bothered about not not having it. So to answer your question Mcmoby, no there is no sensor connected. to 8 and 9.

 

[dcuk]

Also, I am pretty sure the pump hasn't been wired back to the boiler, as the installer mentioned that he may wire it direct later on when I told him about there being parameters for the pump setup.

 

[Dan Robinson]

The weather sensor works just as well on the OV as it does the combi, but with certain understandings required on the part of the installer, the user and it seems intergas.

It just means you have to wire the boiler so that you have hot water priority, or are fine with the fact that when the cylinder is charging your rads will be hotter.

Was looking at a job today where we are planning to do just that, although the hot water use is very high and the boiler will be heating the cylinder almost constantly fro 6 hours a day.


Must admit to being very intrigued with this problem.

Saying that the job we were supposed to be doing this week has been pushed back a while... so if you do get stuck I might be able to help; but obviously we ave nothing to do with the warranty.

 

[dcuk]

Thanks, I just have a feeling that someone who knows these boilers well will probably notice what's wrong right away.

I may need to take you up on your offer if we don't get anywhere with it this week.

 

[mehran]

dcuk, i am a intergas service agent for the grim north...

I doubt very much its your boiler...as said before temp sensor is a outside chance.


I not saying its one of these but I have seen faults like yours before from

1, setting the flow temp to something silly like 30 degrees (should be 70 or greater for y plan or s plan)

2, someone have short circuited out the outside sensor terminal block on the PCB.

3, pumping backwards through the boiler(can sort of work but can cause you fault as well)

or some other silly thing like not being wired up correctly so its dead heading(pumping against a closed valve) or no power to the pump(is the pump wired direct to the boiler or via the demand to the boiler?)

I am fairly sure its not a fault with the boiler from what you have told us.

 

[dcuk]

Hi Mehran,

The tech guy told installer that Value F should be set at 70, I checked and it was. So assuming this is the flow temperature, yes it is set correctly.

I am pretty sure the pump is not wired direct to the boiler. I think the pump runs if turning up room thermostat and heating and/or hot water to ON even when the boiler is off. I would assume this indicates it being wired via demand?

I don't think the boiler is at fault either.

 

[JBPHS]

Hi dcuk, press the button with the thermometer symbol (second from left). The led next to the radiator symbol should illuminate. The set point temperature for the heating (and hot water cylinder if only 1 switch live has been taken back to the boiler etc.) will be displayed in degrees Celsius. Use '-' and '+' to adjust to 70. Press the far right button (reset button) to program the changes. 'P' will be displayed for a few seconds.

It's going to sound cheeky, but if the installer returns, could you ask them to take a photo of the wiring inside the PCB compartment so you can post them on here?

James.

 

[Agile]

Please put me out of my misery and sleepless nights!

When its working as well as it does PLEASE tell me which pipe is hotter!

I would rather suggest you have the outdoor sensor!

Then that your system is wired to give hot water priority. In any normal situation the water is mostly heated outside the CH times and so only rarely interrupts heating.

Doing that prevents too hot rads whilst heating water AND allows all boiler power to go to heating the water.

Water heating should be timed to start 30 min BEFORE each CH period.

Tony