An occasional problem is that the electrode gap isnt right. Often sorted by bending the plate that holds the flame sensing electrode so that the gap is the same thickness as a £2 coin
Ravenheat 85 igniter failure
- Thread starter ricsmit
- Start date
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If the electrode gap wasnt right surely the pilot would not light. it seems to be the next bit thats not working, that is the main burner wont light because the gas valve wont open for whatever reason. Would go ahead and just put in a new ignition board but worried it might not be the cause.
Richard
Richard
Its OK Slug is relaxing and not reading the whole gambit of what you have written.
As the pilot is lighting, the PCB detects the flame by whats called "flame rectification". Until this has happened the PCB does not power the second stage of the gas valve.
The simple man at Ravenheat can only think of one thing at a time thats why he is not out fixing boilers himself!
For all I know the PCB may have detected the flame and powered the second stage of the gas valve which is faulty! If it had not detected the flame it would continue sparking. Thats why I told you to measure the voltage! No point in changing the PCB if the gas valve is faulty.
I am disapointed that instead of following my advice you chose to telephone Ravenheat instead. Please understand that when I give you advice its based on practical boiler repair experience and not just following a fault chart. In any case you did not even understand what Ravenheat told you and now you think you need to replace a diode.
Perhaps you should now call a CORGI registered engineer to fix it?
Tony Glazier
As the pilot is lighting, the PCB detects the flame by whats called "flame rectification". Until this has happened the PCB does not power the second stage of the gas valve.
The simple man at Ravenheat can only think of one thing at a time thats why he is not out fixing boilers himself!
For all I know the PCB may have detected the flame and powered the second stage of the gas valve which is faulty! If it had not detected the flame it would continue sparking. Thats why I told you to measure the voltage! No point in changing the PCB if the gas valve is faulty.
I am disapointed that instead of following my advice you chose to telephone Ravenheat instead. Please understand that when I give you advice its based on practical boiler repair experience and not just following a fault chart. In any case you did not even understand what Ravenheat told you and now you think you need to replace a diode.
Perhaps you should now call a CORGI registered engineer to fix it?
Tony Glazier
I did take your advice but found it very difficult to get in with the probes to measure the voltage across the valve although I did check the resistance with the pcb removed.
The term flame rectification was not mentioned only rectification. If I did undersand the system I would not be on here looking for advice in the first place!
I would have called in someone to start with if I could be sure they knew what they were doing but unfortunately I have found, to my cost, that not all corgi engineers are the same.
The term flame rectification was not mentioned only rectification. If I did undersand the system I would not be on here looking for advice in the first place!
I would have called in someone to start with if I could be sure they knew what they were doing but unfortunately I have found, to my cost, that not all corgi engineers are the same.
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Yeah I did slip up there.ricsmit said:
I got confused with later generation ones which have a seperate flame sensing electrode and these dont have pilots.Sorry I cant help you much more with this one. I have the luxury of being able to go to my van, grabbing an ignition board and trying it after I have checked that there's nothing that will blow it up.
I also have a little solenoid detector that tells me if the solenoids have activated in the gas valve, and a digital manometer so that I can check the gas pressures at the valve
The man at Ravenheat probably did not say "flame rectification" because he is accustomed to talking to people who understand how boilers work. You then misunderstood what he said which justifies him not wanting to talk to anyone who is not CORGI registered.
You dont have to check the voltage actually at the gas valve because it will be the same as that measured at the PCB end of the connector.
Tony
You dont have to check the voltage actually at the gas valve because it will be the same as that measured at the PCB end of the connector.
Tony
Thought I would finish off this thread.
The pilot light died completly although the ignitor was still working. Suspecting a blockage I removed the injector and pipe both were clear. Giving up at this point I called in the professionals. After second visit the ignition lead and sensor was replaced condensate trap removed and then finally the pilot injector off for the third time. This time there was a lump of char sitting in it. I can only presume this was sittting in the gas valve causing a partial blockage and was disloged and blown along the pipe blocking it completly.
Thanks for all help, will also move the pressure pressure pick up by 90degrees as suggested.
The pilot light died completly although the ignitor was still working. Suspecting a blockage I removed the injector and pipe both were clear. Giving up at this point I called in the professionals. After second visit the ignition lead and sensor was replaced condensate trap removed and then finally the pilot injector off for the third time. This time there was a lump of char sitting in it. I can only presume this was sittting in the gas valve causing a partial blockage and was disloged and blown along the pipe blocking it completly.Thanks for all help, will also move the pressure pressure pick up by 90degrees as suggested.
Hi,
As one of the many unfortunates who own a CSI85 (but thanks to this forum have kept it going the last 2 years), I am met with a problem with the Air Pressure sensor, its not functioning [but does operate if I blow down the connecting pipes]. Anyway I replaced it, and made sure the longer red pipe is connected properly, the short clear pipe that connects to the APS is not actually connected to anything else, is this right? Eitherway, the damn thing isnt working. Now this guy mentions something that might help:
As one of the many unfortunates who own a CSI85 (but thanks to this forum have kept it going the last 2 years), I am met with a problem with the Air Pressure sensor, its not functioning [but does operate if I blow down the connecting pipes]. Anyway I replaced it, and made sure the longer red pipe is connected properly, the short clear pipe that connects to the APS is not actually connected to anything else, is this right? Eitherway, the damn thing isnt working. Now this guy mentions something that might help:
Slugbabydotcom";p="323105 said:
Here's some stuff to go through
When you replaced the APS theres another trap to catch you out.
One of the connectors on the APS has a red indicator on it. This is illogical because the red pipe actually goes on the other one!
Check that you have fitted the right APS There are different types for different models.
Your fan could be weak or your flue could be blocked. Check the integrity of the flue.
That venturi collar has been known to get blocked so it might be worth taking it out to have a look at it.One guy on here reported that his had water in it! Take the red tube off at the APS end and blow down it first for a quick test.
Altering the angle of the venturi collar does work and can be a saviour sometimes but now I keep an open mind and try it in different positions. This was after I altered one so that it was at 90º [EDIT:- to the direction of the flue outlet in plan view] and it then stopped working. The outlet pipe was not concentric in the flue elbow.
When you replaced the APS theres another trap to catch you out.
One of the connectors on the APS has a red indicator on it. This is illogical because the red pipe actually goes on the other one!
Check that you have fitted the right APS There are different types for different models.
Your fan could be weak or your flue could be blocked. Check the integrity of the flue.
That venturi collar has been known to get blocked so it might be worth taking it out to have a look at it.One guy on here reported that his had water in it! Take the red tube off at the APS end and blow down it first for a quick test.
Altering the angle of the venturi collar does work and can be a saviour sometimes but now I keep an open mind and try it in different positions. This was after I altered one so that it was at 90º [EDIT:- to the direction of the flue outlet in plan view] and it then stopped working. The outlet pipe was not concentric in the flue elbow.
Just to add to the comment about venturi orientation ( and I did not understand Slug's description of the correct position! ).
Its best to measure the output pressure and rotate the venturi for the maximum output.
Tony
Its best to measure the output pressure and rotate the venturi for the maximum output.
Tony
Hi, Yes, fan might be weak, the venturi collar is clear, I'll try the fan next and see what happens! From what i see of the system it must take quite a large pressure differential to trip the air pressure switch, seems like a crap design.
(oh and thanks for the quick responses!)
(oh and thanks for the quick responses!)
Update! Its the fan, I'm pretty sure, I've been listening to whats going on, 9 times out of the 10 the fan doesnt spin with its full force, and as such the air pressure switch doesnt operate. However on the odd occasion that the fan does spin up, I can really hear it spinning like crazy, then the APS operates, the ignition starts and the combi fires up.
So, what are the chances of this being the fan, or could it be the fan control board? Does it have a 'half speed' mode or something that it might be defaulting to? Or is it more likely to be the fan unit?
Regards, Chris
So, what are the chances of this being the fan, or could it be the fan control board? Does it have a 'half speed' mode or something that it might be defaulting to? Or is it more likely to be the fan unit?
Regards, Chris
How strange is that. I renewed a CSI fan yesterday and still have the part number in my head = 0012VEN03005/0
For a short term fix give the fan bearings a dose of WD40. It will be hard to get to the bottom bearings, just do your best there.
With the power off the fan should spin freely if there is nothing wrong with it.
To answer your question. The ignition pcb normally wouldnt give the fan any power at all if it was faulty. So the fan is your major suspect
For a short term fix give the fan bearings a dose of WD40. It will be hard to get to the bottom bearings, just do your best there.
With the power off the fan should spin freely if there is nothing wrong with it.
To answer your question. The ignition pcb normally wouldnt give the fan any power at all if it was faulty. So the fan is your major suspect
Well many thanks,you were quite correct, the old fan didnt spin very well when removed from the combi, installed a new fan unit and hey p[resto its been perfect now for the last 2 weeks! Yes!! This damn combi has been playing up for the past 2 years, now its excellent!
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