Please God, don't let it be the flow switch.......joe-90 is insufferable enough as it is.Penster said:
Poor Penster - an innocent question about her boiler and she gets 5 pages of ranting and raving! And we haven't even had softus posting (yet).
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Poor Penster - an innocent question about her boiler and she gets 5 pages of ranting and raving! And we haven't even had softus posting (yet).
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ChrisR said:
Oh dear! When the argument is lost the abuse begins.
If you agree that it just MIGHT be a flowswitch problem (but is probably a cracked board) why are you going on and on about it?
Like a Jack Russell with a rat!
Let it go mate, "it's only a commercial".
joe
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Can't we knock it on the head now?, surely all input is useful diy and professional.
Anyway, I got called to a halstead ace today with an intermittent lockout. Tempted to suspect the air flow components but now I'm looking forward to the conclusion of this thread.
Anyway, I got called to a halstead ace today with an intermittent lockout. Tempted to suspect the air flow components but now I'm looking forward to the conclusion of this thread.
Joe you've already made an ass of yourself and the forum.
I'll tell you one more time. There are dozens of things , many undocumented, which would make a boiler go to "lock-out". Boiler fault diagnosis is a process of deduction, not elimination, or voting for a likely part, which you seem to think. It doesn't help to have anyone with some small experience which they think might be important going on and on about it. It blocks the thread up. Presumably you go on , in the hope that you can say "I told you so", or something equally dumb?
The two boiler problems are completely different. Don't you think the fact that one makes a lot of noise and the other doesn't, is significant? Yes so they cut out intermittently and flow switches are among the things which can do it. One corgi's sore foot gave him a pain - the other one might have toothache!
You make yourself look a complete muppet when you can't understand the explanations given to you about the particular aspect of the boiler, but keep on making noise. There are many on this forum who just stop contributing to a thread when someone like you kicks off, which is probably the wisest course of action. I thought I'd try the helpful (to you) route, but just got a load more trash in return.
This is a friendly, helpful, forgiving forum but like all others it is occasionally blighted by some short-stay individual who makes himself a pain for a while. You're pollution, you're spoiling it for the rest of us. If you want to learn, fine, ask, otherwise we'll just wait till you go away like all the rest have.
I'll tell you one more time. There are dozens of things , many undocumented, which would make a boiler go to "lock-out". Boiler fault diagnosis is a process of deduction, not elimination, or voting for a likely part, which you seem to think. It doesn't help to have anyone with some small experience which they think might be important going on and on about it. It blocks the thread up. Presumably you go on , in the hope that you can say "I told you so", or something equally dumb?
The two boiler problems are completely different. Don't you think the fact that one makes a lot of noise and the other doesn't, is significant? Yes so they cut out intermittently and flow switches are among the things which can do it. One corgi's sore foot gave him a pain - the other one might have toothache!
You make yourself look a complete muppet when you can't understand the explanations given to you about the particular aspect of the boiler, but keep on making noise. There are many on this forum who just stop contributing to a thread when someone like you kicks off, which is probably the wisest course of action. I thought I'd try the helpful (to you) route, but just got a load more trash in return.
This is a friendly, helpful, forgiving forum but like all others it is occasionally blighted by some short-stay individual who makes himself a pain for a while. You're pollution, you're spoiling it for the rest of us. If you want to learn, fine, ask, otherwise we'll just wait till you go away like all the rest have.
Penster, old chap, sorry for the obfuscatory noises-off.
Looking again at the initial diagnosis (not enough gas) it does seem pretty unlikely to have ever caused a problem. The boiler is designed to run right down to 1.4 mbar pressure at the burner. It would need an extra mbar or so on the input to achieve it, but that would have to be one heck of a blockage, given a 20 ish mbar input. It would presumably keep alight even lower than that too. There's nothing in the boiler which measures how alight the burner is, just that there's a flame. If the boiler were habitually running on almost nothing, your HW would have been non existent - you'd have noticed!
So. bacj to the bad cntact, sticky shaft /switch or whatever. I'd look carefully at wherever the water leak is, they quite often matter eventually.
The manual is on-line, by the way.
If you look at Page 30, water housing group set you'll see the two switches "primary flowswitch" and "DHW flowswitch". They're identical plastic boxes with a clear side, wires in the ends. They clip on to their respective actuating mechanisms around a central shaft/pin which comes out to press the switch. If those areas are crusty like there's been a leak , they're suspicious.
Good luck!
Looking again at the initial diagnosis (not enough gas) it does seem pretty unlikely to have ever caused a problem. The boiler is designed to run right down to 1.4 mbar pressure at the burner. It would need an extra mbar or so on the input to achieve it, but that would have to be one heck of a blockage, given a 20 ish mbar input. It would presumably keep alight even lower than that too. There's nothing in the boiler which measures how alight the burner is, just that there's a flame. If the boiler were habitually running on almost nothing, your HW would have been non existent - you'd have noticed!
So. bacj to the bad cntact, sticky shaft /switch or whatever. I'd look carefully at wherever the water leak is, they quite often matter eventually.
The manual is on-line, by the way.
If you look at Page 30, water housing group set you'll see the two switches "primary flowswitch" and "DHW flowswitch". They're identical plastic boxes with a clear side, wires in the ends. They clip on to their respective actuating mechanisms around a central shaft/pin which comes out to press the switch. If those areas are crusty like there's been a leak , they're suspicious.
Good luck!
Oilski I bet yours is airflow because most of them seem to be. I find myself wondering what the BG etc guys were doing with this Finest. If it does it while you're there, you lift the edge of the boiler inner casing and it stops - well usually. I think I've only found one case of blocked tube where opening the case made NO difference!
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I've done nothing other than offer an explanation that hadn't been offered.
So what? In what way is that a problem? I had 4 CORGI men here over a period of something like 5 weeks switching PCBs (twice) electrodes (twice) checking diaphragms and relays - without success.
I simply wondered if this could be a similar sort of issue. Had you said "Maybe it's worth checking out" it wouldn't have gone any further. But that isn't the way it went is it? You started saying that things like that weren't possible when I'd experienced the very same thing just a few months ago.
You've spent the greater part of this thread slagging me off for mentioning it.
I guess you feel this is your forum and that no-one who isn't a plumber is allowed to contribute. Then again, the CORGI guys I had round were pretty dumb too.
I'll let you sort in now Chris. What did you say you thought the fault was? Oh I see - you didn't.
joe
So what? In what way is that a problem? I had 4 CORGI men here over a period of something like 5 weeks switching PCBs (twice) electrodes (twice) checking diaphragms and relays - without success.
I simply wondered if this could be a similar sort of issue. Had you said "Maybe it's worth checking out" it wouldn't have gone any further. But that isn't the way it went is it? You started saying that things like that weren't possible when I'd experienced the very same thing just a few months ago.
You've spent the greater part of this thread slagging me off for mentioning it.
I guess you feel this is your forum and that no-one who isn't a plumber is allowed to contribute. Then again, the CORGI guys I had round were pretty dumb too.
I'll let you sort in now Chris. What did you say you thought the fault was? Oh I see - you didn't.
joe
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If this is Halsteds finest boiler, what are it's more mediocre models like, Halsteads pretty good or Halsteads not so bad MK11 or Bagofshitte platinum
30HE condersending model.
30HE condersending model.
Pretty much the same inside as Baxis, Aristons, and several others it seems to me. Giannoni bits, Honeywell bits, Alpha Laval h/e, same old fan... Odd that their venturi's seem prone to getting bits stuck in them. Must be subtleties, whether by accident or(lack of) design.PEDANTICVINDICTIVEMAN said:
The Finest had that goddawful grey plastic front panel though, which distorts and looks terrible, and the Aces need 90º street elbows for the pipe connections, orribly tight. But they DO give good flow rates for the money.
So often it's the daft things which prove to be a pain, like leaky condensate traps. Speaking of which I've not clapped eyes on a Halstead condenser
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Penster, you're a girl!!! condesending font switch = ON
I didn't know there was a water leak, couldn't see the wood for the Joes.
Seriously, the venturi tripping thing rears its head when on high gas rates, typically when drawing hot water, not sure if the low primary water switch trips the boiler (needing power off-on reset) or just turns off the boiler until flow is restored. The burner will, as someone said between Joe's ramblings, burn down at very low pressures, so the effect of even a severe gas blockage would be low power output (an issue to be resolved once the boiler works reliably), not failure.
In my humble opinion try the following with BG:-
1. Will it run for 5 minutes on DHW duty with the inner case off?
If so look at the venturi & air pressure switch.
If not go to 2
2. Are the ignition and flame detection electrodes and leads in good condition, clean, and properly gapped (Halstead provide uprated with replacement PCB - for good reason maybe)?
3. Look at the primary flow switch (the top one) is its clear cover discoloured, or full of water. If so change the microswitch.
4. Look at the flame on high fire (DHW) Does it lift off the burner?
If so have you a long (>1m) side flue? Does it slope slightly downwards towards outside? If not have them check the inner flue for corrosion which would cause flue gases to dilute the oxygen in the "fresh" air (in London?).
Can't think of anymore at present, though if Joe could get his dad to load in the brain patterns of a gas fitter......
I think he must have those of that bird that Compo fancies in LotSW the way he goes on.
I feel a retort heading my way....
ChrisR said:
I didn't know there was a water leak, couldn't see the wood for the Joes.
Seriously, the venturi tripping thing rears its head when on high gas rates, typically when drawing hot water, not sure if the low primary water switch trips the boiler (needing power off-on reset) or just turns off the boiler until flow is restored. The burner will, as someone said between Joe's ramblings, burn down at very low pressures, so the effect of even a severe gas blockage would be low power output (an issue to be resolved once the boiler works reliably), not failure.
In my humble opinion try the following with BG:-
1. Will it run for 5 minutes on DHW duty with the inner case off?
If so look at the venturi & air pressure switch.
If not go to 2
2. Are the ignition and flame detection electrodes and leads in good condition, clean, and properly gapped (Halstead provide uprated with replacement PCB - for good reason maybe)?
3. Look at the primary flow switch (the top one) is its clear cover discoloured, or full of water. If so change the microswitch.
4. Look at the flame on high fire (DHW) Does it lift off the burner?
If so have you a long (>1m) side flue? Does it slope slightly downwards towards outside? If not have them check the inner flue for corrosion which would cause flue gases to dilute the oxygen in the "fresh" air (in London?).
Can't think of anymore at present, though if Joe could get his dad to load in the brain patterns of a gas fitter......
I think he must have those of that bird that Compo fancies in LotSW the way he goes on.
I feel a retort heading my way....
Yes the boiler would lock out if the primary flow switch dropped out while the boiler's on, or during the self-test when the boiler's first turned on.
Nothing whatsoever to do with a low water pressure switch as described by the itinerant dimwit, because ths boiler doesn't have one of those. (Probably his mate's Puma.) And nothing whatsoever to do with the tap water flowswitch also as apparently implied by same individual, because that one does not cause the boiler to lock out.
All 4 points seem worth looking at to me. Though surely one of those BG guys...?
Recently had a broken wire inside a crimp terminal on a Suprima 100 causing a lockout, the memory of which is etched upon my soul - I'll let you guess why!
I do hope Penster comes back to us - but would you?
Nothing whatsoever to do with a low water pressure switch as described by the itinerant dimwit, because ths boiler doesn't have one of those. (Probably his mate's Puma.) And nothing whatsoever to do with the tap water flowswitch also as apparently implied by same individual, because that one does not cause the boiler to lock out.
All 4 points seem worth looking at to me. Though surely one of those BG guys...?
Recently had a broken wire inside a crimp terminal on a Suprima 100 causing a lockout, the memory of which is etched upon my soul - I'll let you guess why!
I do hope Penster comes back to us - but would you?
In fairness to joe, I must admit to being the one who mentioned water pressure switch (I presume "itinerant dimwit" wasn't meant to refer to me?). That was before I checked the manual, when I was trying to work out what valve joe was referring to (initially) as a water solenoid valve!ChrisR said:
Penster is due to post again tonight or tomorrow morning. Knowing how many of us are now emotionally involved n this saga, I'm sure she won't let us down.
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