Towerstat RF Issues

Likely 5 wires on hard wired bit, maybe 4 and a link. To me easy, but hard to say how you would find it. So your looking for either replacement programmable thermostat using wifi or hard wired, so step one is work out best option, step two is work out what is the best compromise between best and what can be easy fitted.

So looking at Hive that would likely replace it easy, but that is jumping, first what boiler, and what design of house, and living style, if you have to pay some one, then if the boiler supports OpenTherm or similar, this would be time to up-grade, with gas boilers (not most oil boilers) the boiler can modulate, it does this in the main to extract the latent heat, but tied into that we today try to turn boiler off/on as little as possible and instead allow the boiler to modulate (turn down flame height) as that method saves money and heats the house more even with less of a sine wave for temperature, (low hysteresis) there are two ways to control the boiler, one is a thermostat that connects to ebus, the other is temperature of the return water.

Using the return water temperature is easy, we have a TRV in each room, as they close the by-pass valve opens, and as a result the return water increases in temperature, and the boiler then reduces output, however it has a draw back, it can't turn boiler on, as once it switches off, there is no water flowing to tell it to switch back on, so we fit a thermostat in a room normally kept cold, with no alternative heating, on the ground floor, with no outside doors set to turn off boiler as weather improves. Or some compromise.

With OpenTherm thermostats however they are normally fitted in the main room, and the lock shield set so that room is slower to heat to rest.

All very clever but does not always work, I have a problem with my house, the hall where the thermostat is cools slower than other rooms, so does not turn the boiler back on soon enough. Can set time it takes to heat, but not time taken to cool. And I also have a problem using an oil boiler that does not modulate with over shooting.

So there are some systems that control the temperature in many rooms, the Honeywell EvoHome was the one I saw first, but all manufacturers seem to have produced some thing now on the same lines, odd but not Nest, and Hive uses a different method to most, but the problem is cost, the electronic TRV heads they use to tell the wall thermostat/hub what to do are not cheap when you consider one on each radiator.

So in the main we compromise. But we may do it in a way we can add on latter. I got it wrong, and will admit it so you don't make same mistake, I decided to use Energenie TRV heads then add Nest latter, never did add Nest in mothers old house, and so brought the TRV's to this house, but then found Nest had withdrawn support. I have 9 electronic TRV heads, but oil fired boiler, and find they worked A1 with modulating gas boiler, but not so good with oil.

So there is a thermostat really designed for underfloor heating called a Moes which is seems many are using as cheap and wifi enabled, not a clue how good, but if looking at main stream goods, likely Hive will do what you need. But likely the Drayton Wiser would work better. But if worried about wiring then the TRV heads don't need wiring. So I hope you can do better than I did.
 
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@ericmark Thanks for your reply, but as I have no idea what most of that means :oops:, I'm going to take the easy option and replace like with like. I can literally then just unscrew wires and reconnect.

My boiler is a BAXI 105 HE, it's been in a good fair years, but has been serviced every year so should last me a while. If I get to the point where i need a new boiler I will look at changing my setup but at the moment I'm happy that at a fairly low cost I can replace like with like and see if it works.
 
@ericmark Thanks for your reply, but as I have no idea what most of that means :oops:, I'm going to take the easy option and replace like with like. I can literally then just unscrew wires and reconnect.

My boiler is a BAXI 105 HE, it's been in a good fair years, but has been serviced every year so should last me a while. If I get to the point where i need a new boiler I will look at changing my setup but at the moment I'm happy that at a fairly low cost I can replace like with like and see if it works.
As £30 https://www.heatingcontrolsonline.co.uk/horstmann-hrfs1-programmable-wireless-thermostat.html it is likely the best option, but when I got it cost me £76 and did not want it to fail again.
 
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@Chris_W at the risk of ignoring what is probably good advice, I think I'm going to stick with what I know for now.

I've ordered the one for £30 that @ericmark has linked to - actually ordered it this morning when i realised the address change hadn't worked. For that money, if I knacker it up, it's not too much hassle, I can also see if just the new transmitter works first before embarking on wiring - I don't think it will, but I guess it's worth checking first.

Claire
 
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So I have had my transmitter and receiver delivered today. Set the transmitter up to work in the hope it was that that is the issue, but no, the receiver behaves in exactly the same way as with the old transmitter, turns on but won't turn off.

So it looks like I have 4 wires to attach to it - SL (off), L (that goes into a connection that has a 'link wire' in it) SL (On) and N.

Looking at that, it makes sense that it might work to turn on and not to turn off as they are two different connections.

I'm hoping it's just a case of taking the wire out of the old one and sticking it in the new. If that doesn't work, there would have to be something wrong with the wiring between the receiver and the boiler I guess.

Claire
 
So it looks like I have 4 wires to attach to it - SL (off)
That doesnt make any sense a Switched live is exactly that, has nothing to do with off, post a pic of the back of the receiver it should have a wiring diagram on it
 
That doesnt make any sense a Switched live is exactly that, has nothing to do with off, post a pic of the back of the receiver it should have a wiring diagram on it

Oh :(

upload_2021-1-11_18-2-10.png
 
you dont put anything in SL off
Live to L on stat
Neutral to N on stat
Switched live to SL(ON) this goes to the boiler and tells it when to come on.

If your existing receiver has a wire in SL(off) that is the problem, nothing should be in there
you say yoou have 4 wires so you can use the L&N which is obvious and put the other two into L and SL (on) and remove that red link
 
you dont put anything in SL off
Live to L on stat
Neutral to N on stat
Switched live to SL(ON) this goes to the boiler and tells it when to come on.

If your existing receiver has a wire in SL(off) that is the problem, nothing should be in there
you say yoou have 4 wires so you can use the L&N which is obvious and put the other two into L and SL (on) and remove that red link

It says remove the red link if you are using it volt free, then talks about COM and NC wires.

I can't imagine there is something in the SL off that shouldn't be as it used to work, and nothing has been changed. I don't know how many wires I have connected to the current one as I haven't taken it off yet.
 

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