Yale alarm Keeps beeping randomly...Please help!

[mdf290]

2:30 every night does not sound random. Maybe the

something else

is an external event that affects the panel and caused it to bleep without creating a record in the log.
If it is definately the panel that is bleeping ( and not something else in the room ) then e-mail the manufacturer's technical support with the details. E-mails to the technical department will get a more thought out response ( therefore more accurate ) than a phone call to a help desk agent who has to answer without having time to fully research the problem.

The panel would beep if the power supply cuts out but this would show up in the log.
Inteference or jamming would not cause the panel to beep

 

[bernardgreen]

Inteference or jamming would not cause the panel to beep

If that is the case then how does the owner know the system is being compromised by interference or jamming ?

 

[mdf290]

Inteference or jamming would not cause the panel to beep

If that is the case then how does the owner know the system is being compromised by interference or jamming ?

You know the answer to that Bernard the siren would go off.



Hijacking another thread eh? What's your real story? What financial gain have you to get from this? Do you have some advice for the original poster regarding their problem? Thought not.

So you work for the police with their Tesla system . . are Yale alarms taking work from some cosy set up your police colleagues have with a local alarm provider. Indeed what s YOUR relationship to the alarm companies?
Why do you care? Please don't say principal you squeak far too loud and have made your point already enough times.
What is your real MO?

 

[JohnD]

Bernard is just one of the grumpy old men who hate Yale alarms and like to poke their snouts in.

 

[bernardgreen]

Do you have some advice for the original poster regarding their problem? Thought not.

My advice to Chrissy83, as previously posted, was to send details to Yale technical support by e-mail so they have time to look at the problem and provide accurate advice.

Hijacking another thread eh? What's your real story? What financial gain have you to get from this?

None, unlike you who make money selling and installing them.

So you work for the police with their Tesla system . .

No I am retired, did you mean Tetra system. Tetra is form of radio system operated by companies, the police are one of several services using TETRA for secure radio communications.

Indeed what s YOUR relationship to the alarm companies?

No connection at all.

Why do you care?

I feel people should be fully informed to be able to make informed decisions. You appear to be less than fully informed about the systems you sell and install. You once thought that sensors in your favoured system sent regular messages to the panel / siren. I think you were genuinely surprised to learn that the sensors only transmitted on motion, tamper or low battery and that panels /sirens would not be aware that a sensor had died instantly. You were also told some time ago that a protected door could be open yet the alarm would appear to set normally.

What is your real MO?

Modus Operandi ? Or did you mean motivation ?

 

[mdf290]

To further discuss the OPs problem we will have to wait for feedback relating to the effect moving the smoke detector has had.

You will notice that the OP has mentioned 3 years without problems.
I could say that about a few thousand other people too.
Get one and test it in a domestic environment. Your concerns while valid do not translate into a reason not to consider the equipment in the vast majority of cases.
I am not going to deny an alarm system to someone if their budget is limited and their choices are limited.
At the end of the day NO alarm whatever the spec or design will prevent a break in. Only physical security can do that.
However its existence can and does deter burglars.
If I fit a Yale alarm I know it has been fitted and tested to a higher standard than a homeowner would do so at their first attempt. I know the devices are fixed properly not stuck but screwed. I know the siren is out of harms way not where it can be reached. I know any features available have been utilised to best effect and that the system works as designed and all signals are reaching the panel as proven by walk tests and a 'trial break in' scenario.
I know the phone works and phones out and the filters work and the numbers are correctly set and the in code is as needed.
The owner knows if the alarm goes off they will get a phone call. that's reassuring as a monitored alarm to an ARC is no guarantee that the Police will attend or even that keyholders are actually within 20 minutes of the property.
How many owners of monitored systems organise holiday cover for their keyholders or even keep the contact details current?

I wasn't 'told' about the possibility of setting alarms with a door open. It was I who originally posted that information.
Of course you are right loads of people forget to see if their back door is shut when they leave the home dont they?
But even if they did the movement sensor would get them anyway. I always do an alarm plan assuming a door can be bypassed by breaking through (ie kicking out panels) so I always cover the room with an entry with an additional PIR.

But then I have experience of looking for risks and doing risk assessments even to the degree that if a risk is great I actually suggest that a Yale alarm isn't the right solution and that the homeowner should approach another local provider for a graded system. (Yes i do that).

 

[bernardgreen]

You will notice that the OP has mentioned 3 years without problems. I could say that about a few thousand other people too.

without KNOWN ? problems.
But a change in the environment ( wireless wise ) could end that 3 year period.

Your concerns while valid do not translate into a reason not to consider the equipment in the vast majority of cases.

The concerns MUST be considered in EVERY case pre-purchase. In the vast majority of cases a one way wireless inked alarm is likely to work at the time of installation but you and no one else can ensure that it will continue to work in the free for all use of the licence exempt radio channel that most DIY wireless alarms use.

I accept that you will do a better install than the majority of first time installlers but that does not ensure the system will remain reliable.

 

[JohnD]

In the vast majority of cases a one way wireless inked alarm is likely to work at the time of installation but you and no one else can ensure that it will continue to work in the free for all use of the licence exempt radio channel that most DIY wireless alarms use.

Ah you're postulating your theoretical possibility of wireless interference again, in an ordinary domestic house in an ordinary residential street.

You're not willing to estimate the probability that wireless interference will block a detector's signal at the very moment that a burglar breaks into your home. These is because the chance is vanishingly small, and admitting the probability would make the idea laughable.

I'm willing to admit that it is slightly higher than the probabilty of me winning the lottery. I don't buy a ticket.

This point is, by the way, entirely irrelevant to this thread. You just like snouting into Yale topics.

 

[bernardgreen]

Ah you're postulating your theoretical possibility of wireless interference again, in an ordinary domestic house in an ordinary residential street.

Yale recognise the possibility of wireless interference.

If the problem persists it is also recommended to disable the radio interference detection.

Not my words. they are copied from http://www.yale.co.uk/en/yale/couk/Let-us-help/Alarms-FAQs/

Why would they suggest disabling the radio interference detection if radio interference was not a problem.

Why do they (verbally) recognise a baby monitor transmitting on 433.92 MHz can block sensor signals and trigger jamming detection.

This point is, by the way, entirely irrelevant to this thread.

Something is making the panel bleep. Until the cause is found ALL points are relevant.

 

[mdf290]

I knew we would eventually get back in the rut of radio inteference and Jamming that Bernard loves so much and barges into every Yale thread until he has beaten it down this regretable path.

Now unless I missed something here the original poster bought this alarm three years ago and our attempts to help with the problem have in no way been any attempt to mislead the owner as to the abilities of the alarm.

With a tin of expanding foam on a stick i could defeat the siren on any alarm making it useless and since basically a 'bells' only system is only as good as its external siren that wipes out the capabilities of quite a few systems whether wired wireless , two way comms or anything.

BUT I DONT GO ON EVERY ALARM THREAD AND TELL EVERYONE THAT THE ALARMS CAN BE EASILY DEFEATED AND WONT WORK.

Why dont I do that , because statistically not that many burglars wander around with cans of expanding foam on sticks and by the same token . . . .

Not that many burglars can be arsed to fanny around trying to beat wireless alarms either.

So Bernard the truth is noone is trying to mislead anyone about anything.
You however ARE guilty of trying to mislead people into believing that there is no scenario where a wireless alarm is suitable.


look >>>>>>

A YALE wireless alarm can be set off if the siren detects jamming or inteference........

If the system cannot be used properly because the inteference causes the system to false alarm then you should consider swapping for a different alarm.


THERE in BLACK and WHITE for you Bernard.....

What do you want - and what the hell will make you shut up and stop hijacking threads?

 

[bernardgreen]

First mention of interference in this thread came here

The panel would beep if the power supply cuts out but this would show up in the log.
Inteference or jamming would not cause the panel to beep

Why dont I do that , because statistically not that many burglars wander around with cans of expanding foam on sticks and by the same token . . . .

Some burglars have been arrested "going equiped", with transmitting equipment.

 

[mdf290]

First mention of interference in this thread came here

The panel would beep if the power supply cuts out but this would show up in the log.
Inteference or jamming would not cause the panel to beep

After prompting by yourself suggesting 'external' reasons for the beep otherwise I would not have mentioned it and only did so to explain that would not cause the panel to beep... doh!

Why dont I do that , because statistically not that many burglars wander around with cans of expanding foam on sticks and by the same token . . . .

Some burglars have been arrested "going equiped", with transmitting equipment.

'some'? Do you have figures?

Some streets people have been murdered on . . does that mean ALL streets are not safe?

how long is a piece of string or shall we argue that one ad infinitum too

 

[Dotty j]

I had this problem and it was cause by using a two way socket adapter.

 

[PaulE54]

This is quite an old thread BUT it still comes up as a relevant Google search result for "Yale smart hub keeps beeping after a power cut". I thought I'd share my experience of the last 60 minutes as it took me a while to work out how to fix it, even though it was actually very simple ONCE YOU KNOW HOW. Despite re-booting the router, uninstalling and re-installing the app and loads of other potential fixes, the real fix was merely a case of switching the thing off by removing the small rubber bung at the back of the smart hub and flicking the switch with a pencil to the "off" position for a few seconds, and then back to "on" and reconnecting the power supply. Hey presto green light only. It may not work for everybody, but it was the only thing that worked for me. Yale says all sorts of things about the panic button having been pressed, but this wasn't the case. It was a power cut lasting 1 hour 40 minutes, and nothing else. If this helps only one person, then I'll be happy. Any more, and I'll be even happier. Keep up the good work everybody. Paul

 

[Mark Lidster]

Yesterday I had the power turned off for over 8 hours to my house. My yale smart Alarm was beeping constantly over this period no doubt informing me that is was running on the internal rechargeable battery instead of off the mains. When the power was reconnected the beeping continued and the middle orange/yellow led was on. As per the Yale troubleshooting section it suggested fully arming the alarm then turning it off, and then if this didn't work checking that any devices were not at fault. No devices were at fault and these actions did not stop the beeping. I did read that the rechargeable battery would be drained within 5 hours so to stop the beeping I bypassed all devices and then fully alarmed the house. This immediately stopped the beeping and got rid of the middle led. My intuition was telling me now that the beeping was as a result of a low internal battery charge, even when the hub was connected to the mains. I left the system like this for the remainder of the day so we could operate around the house. Then at night when upstairs, I un-bypassed all the devices and part armed the house. In the morning when I de-armed the alarm the beeping had gone and the middle Led was off. So in my case it was simply of matter of recharging the battery.