Glow Worm Ultracom - second diagnostic level password???

[Rog200455]

there is no problem with the boiler, I suggest you leave it as it is. They are very good boilers and I'm sure it'll serve you well.

I am certainly happy with it - summer quarter gas bill was £26 for hot water and cooking I can live with it as it stands - suppose I am looking for perfection

 

[Deleted member 105431]

set the hw to 50deg c max, and ch to 65 (except in very cold weather up it to 70/75) and it'll be cheap as chips.

 

[Rog200455]

set the hw to 50deg c max, and ch to 65 (except in very cold weather up it to 70/75) and it'll be cheap as chips.

Wow - talk about great minds - I already have the HW at 45deg, as that happens to give a perfect shower temp. I have the CH at 62deg, except in very cold weather. Very similar figures to your suggestion

 

[Deleted member 105431]

Well there you go, not many of my customers have your savvy. (I'm a heating engineer)

 

[Rog200455]

Well there you go, not many of my customers have your savvy. (I'm a heating engineer)

Well, I am an electrical engineer so suppose I should be a bit more savvy than Joe Public.

 

[Agile]

It did not help, as however low you set the max output (and I tried it at minimum) the boiler still fires with "three flames" showing in the LCD display, when it first comes back on.

This situation persists for about 30 seconds before it goes into the correct control mode, by which time the water temp has ramped up and the boiler goes into anti-cycling.

Unfortunately there is no way of doing this, so we have to look at other things. I am sure that Raydar has made a good suggestion re the bypass. This boiler has an adjustable bypass, so perhaps I should open that up.

Whilst your boiler seems to be generally working correctly I still suspect the bypass is too far open and causing what you mention above.

However, to check that you would need to actually measure the two return temperatures as I requested.

IOf you really dont want to beother then you could try CLOSING the bypass by a set number of turns and see what effect that has on the anticycling.

Whatever you do make sure you dont close the bypass completely.

Be aware that if you have TRVs then the system will behave differently when they are mostly closed ( causing more flow through the bypass. ).

I suspect that you are not taking into account all the parameters.

Tony

 

[Deleted member 105431]

the auto bypass is factory set, (flat head brass screw on l/h/s of diverter valve) I would advise against adjusting it, but if you must it's clockwise to close.

 

[Agile]

DM, do you know whats inside?

Is it a spring loaded ball thus altering the operating pressure or is it a needle valve altering the resistance?

I presume its the same as the one on the Vaillant 937 ?

Tony

 

[Deleted member 105431]

DM, do you know whats inside?

Is it a spring loaded ball thus altering the operating pressure or is it a needle valve altering the resistance?

I presume its the same as the one on the Vaillant 937 ?

Tony

it is a plastic version of the 937 diverter valve Agile.

 

[Agile]

The 937 I repaired recently had a plastic water section!

But do you know whats under the brass screw???

Tony

 

[Deleted member 105431]

I'm not aware of any plastic water section on any ecotec? Maybe somebody replaced the brass valve with the gw plastic one. It is a spring tensioned plate (similar effect to ball rather than needle)