Anyone able to help on a safety related topic. I'm having a new kitchen fitted and the guys doing the work have installed a new socket under the sink for the washing machine and dishwasher. They've fitted it below the water and drainage pipes. Is this standard practice as it doesn't strike me as being very safe?
Kitchen Sockets Safety
- Thread starter Paddy08
- Start date
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directly under drain pipes is not standard practice no to quote iee "socket outlets should be positioned that water that may drip from plumbing or the equipment is unlikely to effect the socket outlet or plug". Usual practice would be to fit the socket to the other side of the washing machine or above the pipes. But its hard to judge without looking providing pics would be better if poss
From the latest version of the Electricians Guide To The Building Regulations, Section 5.2.2 - Location of accessories in kitchens
General guidance can be provided as follows:
i-iv...
v Socket-outlets supplying washing machines and dishwashers etc, should be positioned so that water that may drip from plumbing or the equipment is unlikely to affect the socket-outlet of plug.
...vi-xi
Sounds like your installer is not following this guidance. Have you checked their competence to do the work? Are they registered on http://www.competentperson.co.uk/?
General guidance can be provided as follows:
i-iv...
v Socket-outlets supplying washing machines and dishwashers etc, should be positioned so that water that may drip from plumbing or the equipment is unlikely to affect the socket-outlet of plug.
...vi-xi
Sounds like your installer is not following this guidance. Have you checked their competence to do the work? Are they registered on http://www.competentperson.co.uk/?
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quite true. dishwashers and washing machines can take a hell of a lot of power.
Yup can confirm this is a standard 2 gang. Sorry having trouble uploading a pic but the socket is attached to the carcass of the unit around the appliance rather than the wall, it's at the bottom of the unit and is sitting a short distance below the cold water feed to the dishwasher etc. The reason for my concern was that the pipes were left dripping after the dishwasher etc had been reinstalled, the pool of water was about 6 inches away from the socket. This doesn't seem to comply with the rules you guys are telling me. Thanks for the help. [/img]
No.
You would normally use two single sockets mounted in a dual box.
You would normally use two single sockets mounted in a dual box.
and you should be able to isolate them readily (not having to pull the appliance out, or empty a cupboard to reach isolator)
They are usually unswitched single sockets controlled by double pole switchs or fused spare switchs, that are readily accessible)
They are usually unswitched single sockets controlled by double pole switchs or fused spare switchs, that are readily accessible)
View media item 5724. Pic now attached, thanks for the link. [/img]
Well theres the nest, Wheres the rat????
id consider putting that main bond clamp back where it belongs (on the pipe) aswell mate!!
id consider putting that main bond clamp back where it belongs (on the pipe) aswell mate!!
From the photo - that is not acceptable.
1) MK rate their double sockets as 19.5A *continuous*
Contractor defence:
- Dishwasher and w/machine will not be heating water continuously
Reality:
- It only takes 24hrs (IIRC) at 22.5A for severe discolouration & aging
- Appliance plugs are often not touched for years, so contact resistance & heating rises (MK test was just several hours, not minutes accumulated over years)
This is why smaller kitchens often use lots of 1G sockets in 1G+1G siamesed backboxes - each is ok for 13A, ie, kettle & toaster plugged into same.
2) The sockets could do with relocating &/or being IP rated.
There is a material risk of leakage from the plumbing.
The sockets are placed low down and in any case could be subject to spray.
IP box route:
- Eterna do simple IP65 enclosures to convert any BS1363 accessory
- Simply surface mount polycarbonate box, lid & 20mm gland entry
- Use Pratley 20mm glands with flat (FTE) cable
They are about £7-12 for 1G-2G and I am certain there is a 1G+1G siamesed box to take twin 1G socket outlets.
MK and others do IP rated sockets, but the double socket current limitation applies and the enclosures by their nature might increase heating.
3) Better solution is also Best Practice
- Unswitched socket outlet OR cord outlet behind the appliance
- 13A Switched Fused Connection Unit above the worktop
BR guidance:
- Built-in appliances require switching above
- Removeable appliances can have switching below
Personally I would not have any wiring accessory below a sink except in an IP rated enclosure. The same applies to any area where washing machine / dishwasher / tap flex hoses are involved. Those hoses are notorious for not being replaced when needed, only to spray profusely like a kitchen fitter when challenged sometime later.
... hmmm, someone knocking at my door with a router & worktop jig
1) MK rate their double sockets as 19.5A *continuous*
Contractor defence:
- Dishwasher and w/machine will not be heating water continuously
Reality:
- It only takes 24hrs (IIRC) at 22.5A for severe discolouration & aging
- Appliance plugs are often not touched for years, so contact resistance & heating rises (MK test was just several hours, not minutes accumulated over years)
This is why smaller kitchens often use lots of 1G sockets in 1G+1G siamesed backboxes - each is ok for 13A, ie, kettle & toaster plugged into same.
2) The sockets could do with relocating &/or being IP rated.
There is a material risk of leakage from the plumbing.
The sockets are placed low down and in any case could be subject to spray.
IP box route:
- Eterna do simple IP65 enclosures to convert any BS1363 accessory
- Simply surface mount polycarbonate box, lid & 20mm gland entry
- Use Pratley 20mm glands with flat (FTE) cable
They are about £7-12 for 1G-2G and I am certain there is a 1G+1G siamesed box to take twin 1G socket outlets.
MK and others do IP rated sockets, but the double socket current limitation applies and the enclosures by their nature might increase heating.
3) Better solution is also Best Practice
- Unswitched socket outlet OR cord outlet behind the appliance
- 13A Switched Fused Connection Unit above the worktop
BR guidance:
- Built-in appliances require switching above
- Removeable appliances can have switching below
Personally I would not have any wiring accessory below a sink except in an IP rated enclosure. The same applies to any area where washing machine / dishwasher / tap flex hoses are involved. Those hoses are notorious for not being replaced when needed, only to spray profusely like a kitchen fitter when challenged sometime later.
... hmmm, someone knocking at my door with a router & worktop jig
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