Do i need to fit a surrey flange for my shower pump?

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I'm just about to start installing a salamdander RSP50 shower pump and wondered if i do actually need to install a surrey flange in the top of the hot water cylinder.

I understand that its there to take water from just below the aerated section at the top of the tank, but do i really need one?

I've got the space and easy access to fit one, just wondering if i need to bother.
 
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There should be no aerated area at the top of the cylinder - that's what the vent pipe is for.

Yes, you should fit it.
 
I suggest you fit the pump as per the instructions, ie seperate cold feed from the cold water storage tank, and use a surrey or essex flange to draw off the hot water. If you tee into the cold feed from the tank that also feeds the HW cylinder you might also run into problems in that the draw off by the pump reduces the amount of water to the cylinder and then you could end up with air being formed at the top of the cylinder because the pump is emptying the cylinder faster than gravity can fill it. -

Might get some of the pro's arguing the toss on that, but that's what happened to me when I first installed my pump off the same cold feed.
 
I suggest you fit the pump as per the instructions, ie seperate cold feed from the cold water storage tank, and use a surrey or essex flange to draw off the hot water. If you tee into the cold feed from the tank that also feeds the HW cylinder you might also run into problems in that the draw off by the pump reduces the amount of water to the cylinder and then you could end up with air being formed at the top of the cylinder because the pump is emptying the cylinder faster than gravity can fill it. -

... and henceforth sucking air into the pump. Brrr, suddenly cold shower and running a pump dry which may cause damage to it.
 
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if i do actually need to install a surrey flange in the top of the hot water cylinder
.

Some naughty plumbers just tee off the hot water supply to the pump from the top of the cylinder making sure that this is a dedicated feed and then take the remaining hot water supply requirements by teeìng in above this...........SHOCKING..
 
I suggest you fit the pump as per the instructions, ie seperate cold feed from the cold water storage tank, and use a surrey or essex flange to draw off the hot water. If you tee into the cold feed from the tank that also feeds the HW cylinder you might also run into problems in that the draw off by the pump reduces the amount of water to the cylinder and then you could end up with air being formed at the top of the cylinder because the pump is emptying the cylinder faster than gravity can fill it. -

Might get some of the pro's arguing the toss on that, but that's what happened to me when I first installed my pump off the same cold feed.

That bit i've got covered. The existing cold water tank wasn't big enough and i'm in the process of fitting a new 50 gallon tank so its dead easy to fit a second take off from the tank for a dedicated cold feed which is what i'm doing.

My query is whether i need the surrey flange. I already have a decent angled take off from the top of the hot water tank that i can tee off for the hot water feed, or i can fit the surrey flange but i'm trying to find out if the surrey flange is critical or not.
 
Fit the Surrey flange. You'll regret it if you don't. If it's too hard to remove, then fit an essex flange instead.
 
Fit the Surrey flange. You'll regret it if you don't. If it's too hard to remove, then fit an essex flange instead.

Failing that try a Norwich or Wembley, if you`re outta luck there try a Basingstoke or Bangor flange. I swear by a Slough. or Didcup, my uncle who has one eye and a speech impediment swears by a Wellingborough.
he swore by a vicar once and was arrested but that`s another story.
 
It's a fairly old hot water tank and the current installation is tidy so i'd rather not disturb it if possible.

But the manufacturers instructions states 'the best connection from the cylinder is either a Salamander S flange or a 3/4" no stop essex flange'. It doesn't stay its mandatory and hence my question as to whether it's necessary.

How much extra work is it to follow the MI?
 
Fit a side entry Essex flange if you possibly can; this is the preferred method from Salamander & many others. If not, fit a top entry Salamander or Surrey flange. You could try teeing off the bottom of a 45 degree top entry angled vent but Salamander only recommend this fort their CT & NP pumps, they don’t actually recommend it for the RSP. Personally, I can’t see why it shouldn’t work just as well but it’s probably best to go with the MI’s; do it properly while you can, it’s better that having to drain the whole bloody lot down again because of problems or, even worse, after you’ve fried the pump!
 
Surrey flange has been ordered and i'll fit that based on the advice given here.

Thanks all!

Next question.

What type of filter should i fit in line with the feeds to the pump?

Can't find anything on screwfix but the salamander installation manual says that i need an in line strainer.
 
I thought Salamanders came with Stainless steel mesh filter/strainers (2) in the box along with the flexible connectors! They usually just fit into the end of the connector, have you checked they aren’t hiding in 2 of the flexis already!
 
I shall check the box when i get home tonight!

Thanks.
 
Mesh strainers are indeed included inside the box!

Problem solved.
 

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