Having found this forum whilst googling the HE24 fault code I thought I would check with the learned before buying parts. It seems the Isar boilers have a poor reputation for reliability, mine is no exception.
Over the last couple of weeks the hot water has been cooler than normal with the burner cutting out after a minute or two of use. While I was in the boiler cupboard I noticed the central heating feed pipe was getting hot when the hot tap was on but with no central heating demand.
Today the boiler refused to fire up and the display was showing fault code LE which is PCB failure according to the fault finding section in the book.
I switched the boiler off at the mains to clear the code but when it was switched on again the display is flickering and a faint crackle / fizz can be heard when the mains is on and the boiler switch is in the off or on position. I can't pinpoint exactly where the sound is coming from. Needless to say it is switched off at the mains now.
Would the experts consider it safe to buy and fit a new PCB, or would the heating pipe warming up indicate a diverter valve fault which could have caused the PCB to fail in the first place?
I hope someone more skilled than I can shed a little light on this, £120 plus for a PCB is too strong a gamble for my limited knowledge on the subject.
John
Over the last couple of weeks the hot water has been cooler than normal with the burner cutting out after a minute or two of use. While I was in the boiler cupboard I noticed the central heating feed pipe was getting hot when the hot tap was on but with no central heating demand.
Today the boiler refused to fire up and the display was showing fault code LE which is PCB failure according to the fault finding section in the book.
I switched the boiler off at the mains to clear the code but when it was switched on again the display is flickering and a faint crackle / fizz can be heard when the mains is on and the boiler switch is in the off or on position. I can't pinpoint exactly where the sound is coming from. Needless to say it is switched off at the mains now.
Would the experts consider it safe to buy and fit a new PCB, or would the heating pipe warming up indicate a diverter valve fault which could have caused the PCB to fail in the first place?
I hope someone more skilled than I can shed a little light on this, £120 plus for a PCB is too strong a gamble for my limited knowledge on the subject.
John