corosion inhibitor life?

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You bung it in...................but does it wear out/lose the will to inhibit?
 
Well..... Yes in short.
Oil in a car is finite.
Inhibitor levels should be checked annually
 
how, and how much do you put in from empty?

can you put too much in?

the bottle of fernox inhibitor I got said it was good for 10 rads in an average house..
I must have lost about a fifth of a bottle untill I figured out how to get it into the rad.. ( kept pouring out of the top hole.. 12 inches of hosepipe, a few turns of electrical tape to make a seal and a funnel eventually got it in.. )
 
Filling a duo-tec combi with Sentinel X100 via the top aav then run dhw, this will destroy the main stainless steel heat exchanger, 1st hand experience :shock:
 
You can by inhibitor level testing kits. No problem in over dosing the system as it's preferred to under dosing.
It's diluted by new water being added to the system. Either fillingloop or automatically on an open system.
Just bung a bottle in a year. More so ifyou frequently top the pressure.

Baxpoti, destroy the heat ex???? Eeek how? Surely not just because of inhibitor just the application method?
 
Another lesson in heating technology from goldburg, I can't wait; the last one was rather good.
 
Baxpoti, destroy the heat ex???? Eeek how? Surely not just because of inhibitor just the application method?

I can only presume that the volume of water being heated in the primary circuit for hot-water delivery is so small that in effect the primary water is more like undiluted Fernox/sentinel whatever (when it is added via the AAV, and not allowed to be diluted in the rad circuit). Perhaps its specific heat capacity is very different to that of 'plain water'

BaxiPot am I, ahem, getting warmer?

DH
 
[ Perhaps its specific heat capacity is very different to that of 'plain water'

BaxiPot am I, ahem, getting warmer?

DH


Don't know for sure, it was very, very quick and very noisy before it split!
I think sentinel is 'thicker' than water and does flow so well, following this 'incident' a memo was circulated advising against this practise :oops:
 
Could it be that the high concentration started foaming, effectively leaving the hex dry?
 
davebgas wrote:
It's diluted by new water being added to the system. Either fillingloop

This doesn't happen unless there's a leak.

Quote:
...or automatically on an open system.

This doesn't happen unless there's a fault.

Quote:
Just bung a bottle in a year. More so ifyou frequently top the pressure.

Where do you think the inhibitor is going each year?

Horseshite. In a word.
Surely this 'fault' could be the customer overly keenly bleeding the radiators? What fault on an open system? A leak yes.....
Also, its blatantly obvious that its diluted if water is added via a filling loop that there is probably a leak... I chose not to insult people intelligence by mentioning it. A sealed systems pressure can also decrease naturally over time, thats a fact and not always caused by a leak.

Why do the manufacturers recommend the inhibitor levels are checked annually then if as you suggest it doesnt go anywhere?
Its a chemical at the end of the day and basic GSCE chemistry will tell you that over time and successive heating/cooling along with mixing of other elements will cause a chemical composition change thus rendering the inhibitor 'diluted'
[/quote]

Can I overdose with Protector?

Answer
No! Overdosing is not detrimental and it is important to ensure that there is always sufficient treatment present. There is a test kit and a postal testing service available to check your Protector concentration. See Protector Test Kit product data sheet.
How long will Protector last?

Answer
Normally a treatment will last about 1-5 years after which time a further does should be applied. If the system is drained in the mean time, then it will need to be re-treated with a further full dose of Protector. You can check if your system is properly dosed using the nail test or using a test kit
 

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