Screw ?

[Mike44]

Hi Guys
I need to get a plasrterer in to plaster most of my house due to flood damage
To reduce the cost I have decided to do as much of the work as I can myself
So I've removed the old ceilings and cleaned and de-nailed the wooden beams
So now its plasterboard time Am I correct in thinking that
1: Straight edged plasterboard is best for me, rather than tappered
2: Screw the boards is better than nailing (What size screw nail would I need)
3: The darker side of the boards goes next to the beams
4: I should stagger the plasterboards
5: Do I just use standard plasterboard ?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
Mike

 

[plstering]

stagger the joints like brick work
white side out ready for plastering
dont nail it m8 or it will pop all over the place
50mm screws
12.5mm plaster board
taperd edge or straight adge is fine as youll need too scrim the joints anyway
use norm plasterboard in norm rooms and fire board in the kitchen
moisture board in the bathroom
you say your looking for a plasterer i may be able too help you out
if your looking too save money and labour for me ill come over and help out skimming let me know
my number is 07536957847 jon
more pics will be nice

8FT/4FT 12.5mm plaster board id go too
WICKES/B&Q and same for plaster too as the price drops when you buy 5 or more

if your trying too get the boards up on your own get 1/2 dead man props too help you out

plus what is the work just reskiming or is it float & set
is it a 2/3 bed house flat the more insight you can give us the more we can help you

 

[Richard C]

1: Straight edged plasterboard is best for me, rather than tapered

Do your plasterer a favour use 12.5mm square edge boards

2: Screw the boards is better than nailing (What size screw nail would I need)

Always use screws, never nails; fix every 150mm – 200 mm max & 38mm is all you need - 3 x board thickness; but no problem with using longer.

3: The darker side of the boards goes next to the beams

Yes &, depending on whose boards you buy, it even says “plaster this side”

4: I should stagger the plasterboards

Yes & board longest edge across the joists; if your joists are 450mm spacing no need for noggins at all (as long as your skimming) but if 600mm, use noggins at exposed edges & around the 2 edges or go to 15mm boards.

5: Do I just use standard plasterboard ?

Mostly you’re OK with standard 12.5mm boards as far as BR’s go but it depends if you want additional sound or fire proof qualities; the difference in material costs at this stage is not than much so your call really. Use MR in bathrooms but it’s not really necessary for ceilings as long as you skim it.

What happened to your insurance?

 

[plstering]

i was tought too use mb in wet rooms and fb in hot rooms
sorry forgot too say about spacings my bad

if your trying too save money then why not dryline the lids (tape & joint)





is it insurance work as its flood damage

 

[Mike44]

if your trying too save money then why not dryline the lids (tape & joint)

Thanks very much for your advice plstering, by tape and joint do you meen
I should use the stickybacked plasteres tape to seel the joints ?

is it insurance work as its flood damage

It should have been but they wriggled out of paying

plus what is the work just reskiming or is it float & set
is it a 2/3 bed house flat the more insight you can give us the more we can help you

Its a 3 bed house, not sure what float and set is sorry

 

[Mike44]

What happened to your insurance?

Thanks very much for the detailed advice Richard
It will help me alot with my immenent visit to B&Q
The insurence have wriggled out of paying, so its all down to me

 

[Mike44]

While I'm here would you guys have any advice regarding my other post

http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=269336

 

[spc]

question? does the house have a) Historical merit? B) listed?

as it was originally lath and plaster and you are permitted to board and skim, use 15mm board as the 3 coat lime work wil be at least 20mm thick and you will be left with and awkward patch al around the ceiling line unless you opt to cove.

plus the joists tend to be under sized and as they have been affected by water damage i would herringbone the joists prior to boarding to a: strengthen the ceiling and b:stop the joists twisting when they finally dry out.

Hope this helps a little?

 

[1john]

I'd be very interested in seeing so pictures of a herringbone strut on a 3x2 on 14" centers as is in the picture. I'd go with a strongback and noggins is there is an issue.

 

[spc]

if i knew how to put a bloody picture up i would

 

[spc]

http://www.westructure.co.uk/techni...l_for_the_of_herringbone_in_solid_joists1.jpg

best i can do, looks like 4x3 to me though herringbone works better on thinner joists

 

[1john]

The OP with the problem put the pictures of the job in question in his first post. " "

 

[spc]

I'd be very interested in seeing so pictures of a herringbone strut on a 3x2 on 14" centers as is in the picture. I'd go with a strongback and noggins is there is an issue.

hence the link to fulfill your interest

The OP with the problem put the pictures of the job in question in his first post. " "

I saw that, thats why i replied but thank you for pointing that out

 

[Mike44]

I've started to remove plaster from walls now
So just a quick question
Would a plasterer plaster straigh on the these walls
Or would it be best to screw plasterboards straight to the walls and then scim the boards
Sorry if its a daft question but I'm learning has I go along

Dining room wall

 

[plstering]

you ned to dot and daab the walls or float and set the walls
how much work is there m8 m8 ill pop over and do it for you or with you and show you how too do it