ecoTEC pro 28 with TimeSWITCH 140 & remote stat conflict

[sparkycol]

Hi all,

Hope this is a stupid question, but are any of you smart enough to know if the
thermostat live output terminal (3 or 4) is supposed to be a switched live from the plug-on TimeSWITCH?

It seems to be perm live and so the remote thermostat is over-riding the timeswitch.

Please go easy I'm but a humble sparky been asked to replace the stat but I
need the timeswitch & stat to work together.

Many thanks

 

[Hufty]

Terminal 3 is a permanent live. If there isn't 240v at terminal 4, the boiler won't fire, which is why they leave the factory with a link wire between 3&4. You want to remove the link wire then take your live from 3, send that out to the room stat/programmer/whatever for switching, then back to 4. The plug in controller will do it's own thing elsewhere.

You are talking about a normal room stat aren't you, not some Vaillant eBus jobbie? "The timeSWITCH 140 cannot be used with the VRT 50 room thermostat" to quote Vaillant.

 

[gas4you]

140 is ebus twin channel programmer so leave the link in place

 

[sparkycol]

Hi thanks,

It's a bog-standard open/close 240V stat but whenever it puts the 240V onto terminal 4 the boiler fires up even though the timeswitch is set not to come on till later in the day.

I know I'm being thick but fitting a remote stat seems to over-ride the timeswitch making it pointless!

The manual shows how to wire up a remote stat with a standard timer so that both have to be closed together to fire the boiler but can't seem to do this with the on-board timeswitch.

thanks for your patience, I've already got further than I did with their tech support!

 

[Hufty]

140 is ebus twin channel programmer so leave the link in place

If you think that link needs to be left in place then surely using a 230v room stat to break or make the link would have some on/off effect, gas4you? Also, if you look here you will see that a 230v room stat connected to 3 and 4 is compatible in some way with the 140 timer.

Sparkycol: why not try it. With the 140 in the fascia, remove the disputed link and any other wires between 3&4 see if the boiler fires with the 140 on and off. Then put the link back in and try it. Then remove the link and put your room stat wiring in. You have got the room stat wired to break contact on rise in temperature btw?

Also are you sure the timer is definitely not calling for heat, ie it's not in some boost or party mode? See what the boiler status code is (press ) then look in the book.

 

[gas4you]

Any ebus control needs the 3-4 link left in place.

Even a monkey would know that

Anyway, don't really know why I bothered replying when obviously the non registered plebs know better.

I'm off back to the CC

 

[The831Bunny]

Sounds like the clock maybe duff. I would double check the clock is off for heating, then look at D.9. This should be 10 or under.

Report back with your findings and we can go from there

 

[bell824]

Any ebus control needs the 3-4 link left in place.

Even a monkey would know that

Anyway, don't really know why I bothered replying when obviously the non registered plebs know better.

I'm off back to the CC

come on g4u the 140 in the front of the boiler coincides with live down 4, as 831 has stated looks like a problem with either the 140 or the pcb (one not talkin to the other) if a plug in timer in instaled the pcb looks at that first then at the 240 down terminal 4!!
so therefor either the 140 is not communicaing properly or the pcb is duff

 

[sparkycol]

Hi all,

Just to report back:
Checked D.9 and the flow target temp is set for 90.

At this point I have to hold up my hands and say in an Italian accent: "I know narthink". I'm guessing that's way too high but time to call in an expert.

Just wanted to thank you all for your replies, way more helpful than Vaillant.

I'll think carefully before I ever say "I can fit a stat for you no probs" again!

Col

 

[The831Bunny]

Hi all,

Just to report back:
Checked D.9 and the flow target temp is set for 90.

At this point I have to hold up my hands and say in an Italian accent: "I know narthink". I'm guessing that's way too high but time to call in an expert.

Just wanted to thank you all for your replies, way more helpful than Vaillant.

I'll think carefully before I ever say "I can fit a stat for you no probs" again!

Col

90 is the flow temperature the clock is requesting, in other words ON!

As long as the clock is definitely off, then its odds on the clock is duff. There is an outside chance the pcb is not reading the clock ebus message, but more than probable its the clock not the PCB.

Try removing the clock from the facia and cleaning the four pins with some wet/dry or fine sandpaper. Its worth a go.