Box in pipes

2 x 1 PAR softwood for your battens and cleats with NoNails or similar to get the initial fix - electric drill/screwdriver to fix, square and handsaw to cut, spirit level to set.

12mm MDF for the cladding - saw and block plane to cut and size, coping saw to cut-out for pipe exits, pilot drill and drill/driver to fix, stopping knife to fill, sanding block, etc.

Shelves are better made from 18mm stuff than 12mm. Where do you want the shelf?
 
Thanks! I will try to see how much these items will cost now.

Just on top of say the top pipe.
 
Thanks - what about the pipe running up the wall, this then runs across 3 walls. Not sure how i would get the joins to look good even after painting.
 
I would use 18mm mdf , no baton required.Then tile to match existing.
I tend to use 12mm because it's much easier to scribe than 18mm for wonky floors, walls, etc) and its also easier to do cut-outs around pipes, etc. Pretty much the standard for commercial work IMHO where it has replaced plywood

Thanks - what about the pipe running up the wall, this then runs across 3 walls. Not sure how i would get the joins to look good even after painting.
I'd consider boxing that, too.

There's a little trick to jointing - don't try to hide them, make a feature out of them. Where you joint two pieces of boxing together put a slight chamfer onto the mating edges (to give a v-groove in effect). When it's all built and you are going round filling screw/pin holes (2-pack flexible for a bathroom/kitchen, BTW) roll and spread a "streak" of filler down each of the joint grooves with your finger. That leaves a minor indentation which almost disappears when you paint it. Done this loads of times and it looks much better than trying to do a dead flush joint
 

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