I've tenants (hopefully) about to move out of the flat, and now I own an MFT (Alphatek) I'm thinking about what tests would be sensible - beyond a visual inspection.
I don't want to go to a level that involves disturbing lots of connections - basically it's finding a balance between doing some basic tests that should show nothing major is wrong, and disturbing lots of connections which could be as likely to introduce faults as to find them. The board is fully RCBO. I have a set of results from an EIC about 18 months ago.
So my plan is :
Main switch off (& locked)
Visual inspection - in particular see if it looks like the tenant has had anything to bits
Cover off CU, IR test whole installation at 250 or 330V *
Link L&E, do R1+R2 tests on everything that doesn't need dismantling **
Remove L-E link
Do r1, rn, r2 checks at a socket for the RFCs
Power on
Test RCDs
Check Ze/PFC
* 250 is a standard voltage, the tester can set multiples of 10V (from memory). 330V is the peak voltage for 240V AC, so I figure that if anything can take 240V AC it should be good for 330V DC - saves having to disconnect all the RCBOs, PIR lights, etc.
If one test of the whole installation is OK, then I can skip testing individual circuits.
** Sockets/RFCs are OK (got a plug in adapter, can quickly go round the ring), cooker has a socket on the switch, most lights have roses so terminals are easily accessible. A couple of circuits (smoke detector, outside lights) are more awkward so I wasn't going to touch them.
Does that sound sensible ? Anything you'd add ? Anything you'd leave out ?
I don't want to go to a level that involves disturbing lots of connections - basically it's finding a balance between doing some basic tests that should show nothing major is wrong, and disturbing lots of connections which could be as likely to introduce faults as to find them. The board is fully RCBO. I have a set of results from an EIC about 18 months ago.
So my plan is :
Main switch off (& locked)
Visual inspection - in particular see if it looks like the tenant has had anything to bits
Cover off CU, IR test whole installation at 250 or 330V *
Link L&E, do R1+R2 tests on everything that doesn't need dismantling **
Remove L-E link
Do r1, rn, r2 checks at a socket for the RFCs
Power on
Test RCDs
Check Ze/PFC
* 250 is a standard voltage, the tester can set multiples of 10V (from memory). 330V is the peak voltage for 240V AC, so I figure that if anything can take 240V AC it should be good for 330V DC - saves having to disconnect all the RCBOs, PIR lights, etc.
If one test of the whole installation is OK, then I can skip testing individual circuits.
** Sockets/RFCs are OK (got a plug in adapter, can quickly go round the ring), cooker has a socket on the switch, most lights have roses so terminals are easily accessible. A couple of circuits (smoke detector, outside lights) are more awkward so I wasn't going to touch them.
Does that sound sensible ? Anything you'd add ? Anything you'd leave out ?