Silverline pocket hole jog - anyone used one?

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I've just bought one of these, but I'm having issues with it and thinking if it is due to getting a cheapy and not a trend or a kreg instead.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-868549-Pocket-Hole-Jig/dp/B000LFXJ8O/ref=pd_sxp_f_pt

I clamping it to a piece of wood with a locking C clamp. The clamp held the jg really firmly to the piece of wood.

I then inserted an 8mm drill bit into the jig hole (Correct size for the threaded on adapter) then attempted to drill. What I found was that the bit kept hitting the metal as it was drilling. So it scrapped some metal off the inside of the jig as well as making a hole in the wood.

I tried a few more and it did the same thing. If I carry on my drill bit will be shot pretty soon, so I've given up for now.

Does the jig require a special drill bit? Anyone else used this jig? Are the trend/kreg ones worth the extra money?
 
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Silverline is absolute tat.

The stuff they sell is a joke.

I honestly don't know where their market place is. It must be for diy'ers that buy stuff to adorn their shelves because used once the stuff is fit for the bin.

I bought an emergency jigsaw for £15 and it lasted for one job, a total of about 30 minutes use. I wasn't phased by the throwaway cost because the thing was hand delivered to me, i completed the job and the jig saw was flung. To have not completed the job would have had more serious repercussions than a mere 15 rips.

Ho hum.
 
Thanks gentlemen I think I have my answer!

In the bin it goes and off I go to place an order for the Kreg R3.

Cheers.
 
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i'll aggree that 90% of silverline stuff is tatt but i've had a pocket hole jig for years without any problems - make sure that you have the correct "nuts" in the jig for a start then throw out the 6 & 8 mm ones and only use the 10mm

note - the kregg jig is now imported by silverline !!!!
 
Silverline tools are sometimes good for one job then throw them away.
You get what you pay for .
For some light jobs- they will be ok- as long as you take things slowly.
 
It would work fine if you had the right drill bit.
 
I've just bought one of these, but I'm having issues with it and thinking if it is due to getting a cheapy and not a trend or a kreg instead.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-868549-Pocket-Hole-Jig/dp/B000LFXJ8O/ref=pd_sxp_f_pt

I clamping it to a piece of wood with a locking C clamp. The clamp held the jg really firmly to the piece of wood.

I then inserted an 8mm drill bit into the jig hole (Correct size for the threaded on adapter) then attempted to drill. What I found was that the bit kept hitting the metal as it was drilling. So it scrapped some metal off the inside of the jig as well as making a hole in the wood.

I tried a few more and it did the same thing. If I carry on my drill bit will be shot pretty soon, so I've given up for now.

Does the jig require a special drill bit? Anyone else used this jig? Are the trend/kreg ones worth the extra money?
Notes on Silverline pocket hole jig
I recently bought the jig and dowel drill set in the face of web site warnings and make the following comments that may be helpful.
Drilling into soft wood at 17 degrees is difficult with 8 mm dia. and larger bits, especially if over a knot. The S. dowel drills could not cope even normal to timber face. These were discarded but the collars retained. Pre-drilling with 6 dia bits assists. A table of positions of jig relative to stock ends, thicknesses, penetration of drill relative to jig feral and screw length is required. This will be approximately (mm)
Stock thickness 13 26 39 52
Jig position +10.5 -10.5 -32.2 -54.5
lower jig end forward (-) and rearward (+) of stock end
Penetration 43 65 88 110
Screw length 30 45 55 70
Screws do not have to be flat seated and domed headed, Philips head is ok.
Note - having pockets inside ‘box’ is stronger than outside for the wood over the sloping screws is the first to split out.
Initial resistance to screw penetration may cause bit friction on aluminium jig but can be reduced as above measures.
The jig and stock piece must be very firmly clamped together in say the work horse jaws or carpenters vice. G clamps are insufficient ( hence special locking clamps and mechanical fixing to jig with patent systems).
Of course patent systems are neater to use, but at a cost and restricted stock and drill hole sizes. With repetitive deployment they are winners.
 

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