Garage Electrics

[rjm2k]

I'm thinking of altering the switching for a couple of lights in the garage, one is currently switched but another is run from a plug, I'd like to combine both of these lights into a double switch.

Investigated the fusebox and found this

View media item 50612 View media item 50613
All of the switching is currently done in the Fusebox.

Now, am I right in thinking that rather than keeping this arrangement and in fact adding 2 new cables into it, I'm better off taking a cable to a JB and doing the switching for the 2 lights in there?

Also, when I pulled the 5A fuse this little piece fell out,

View media item 50614
it looks like it should push into the recess in the middle of the fuse holder, is that right? If so, there is only 1 of these things, is it better off in the 15A or 5A holder?

Thanks

 

[ericmark]

I would use switched fuse protection units for the lights that covers both the fuse and the switch problem. Use a 3A fuse.

The regulations say one is allowed up to 16A feed to lamps. However this is only valid when all items used are also rated at 16A.

In fact the ceiling rose is only rated at 6A so in the main 6A is the limit.

In fact the BA22d connector used for most bulbs is rated at 2A but bulbs should have a fuse built into the bulb so 6A should be OK.

Ikea have marketed bulbs without fuses built in and I am sure many others have and should such a bulb fail it can weld the bulb holder contacts to the bulb so instead of just changing a bulb you have to change holder too.

As to the Asbestos wad don't worry about it they all fall out. Personally I replaced the fuses with MCB's they are easy to change but before doing that one should test the loop impedance to see if within limits. Although I guess very few do.

 

[plugwash]

Now, am I right in thinking that rather than keeping this arrangement and in fact adding 2 new cables into it, I'm better off taking a cable to a JB and doing the switching for the 2 lights in there?

Yeah, I'd try and move the switch wiring out of the CU, it's already way too crowded in there.

Personally I wouldn't bother with a junction box though, i'd just make all the connections at the switch.

Also, when I pulled the 5A fuse this little piece fell out

AIUI those peices are supposed to provide the holder with some protection when a fuse blows violently. They are often missing.

Personally i'd put it back in the 5A holders as lightbulbs sometimes fail short which could in turn cause a violent blowing of the fuse.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Where does that CU get its supply from?

 

[canduit]

As to the Asbestos wad don't worry about it they all fall out.

Not one of your greatest comments Eric! There's every reason to treat it with care.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Depends how old you are.

 

[rjm2k]

Where does that CU get its supply from?

It's connected to the main house cu on a 16a Mcb , also in the garage it goes thru an rcd before it hits the small cu

 

[rjm2k]

As to the Asbestos wad don't worry about it they all fall out.

Not one of your greatest comments Eric! There's every reason to treat it with care.

I left it alone as soon as asbestos was mentioned, will prob upgrade the fuses to mcbs anyway, I'm right in thinking there are direct plugin replacements?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

It's connected to the main house cu on a 16a Mcb , also in the garage it goes thru an rcd before it hits the small cu

So there's no discrimination between the 15A fuse and the upstream MCB, nor would there be if you replaced the garage fuses with MCBs.

There is absolutely no point in having a CU in the garage - put the sockets directly on the 16A circuit from the house and put in an FCU for the lights.

If the MCB in the main CU is RCD protected then ditch the garage RCD as well, if it's not then keep it, but (assuming all the cables in the garage are surface mounted) have it after the FCU for the lights.

 

[rjm2k]

Good point, just tested and the main CU MCB isolates all of the Garage. Only other thing is that the main MCB seems to be shared between the Garage and some sockets in the loft, so if the small CU is taken out and the MCB trips it will isolate the loft too, whereas the current setup the garage fuse will (possibly) go first?

View media item 50664
thanks

 

[Adam_151]

Dont think that grey piece on the wylex rewireables is asbestos, just ceramic I think? The asbestos is normally found in MEM/Bill/Simplex boards and generally resembles a woven cloth pad http://www.marstonenvironmentalservices.co.uk/pictures/gallery_1/item11/mid/0475.jpg and often a rope gasket around the lid on some items

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Good point, just tested and the main CU MCB isolates all of the Garage.

That's an RCD, not an MCB, so you can ditch the RCD in the garage.

so if the small CU is taken out and the MCB trips it will isolate the loft too, whereas the current setup the garage fuse will (possibly) go first?

Not a chance in hell.

If it is important to you that a fault in the garage does not take out the sockets in the loft then the only way to ensure that is to have them on separate circuits and separate RCDs.

If it's not important then there is no point in spending time and money putting in stuff which won't do it.

 

[rjm2k]

Done some tidying up on this today, out of interest my previous house had the same small cu in the garage fed from a breaker on the house cu, though i'm unsure what the fuse rateings were. if such an arrangement is pointless then why would the builders (who prefer to keep costs down) have done it?

 

[RF Lighting]

Dont think that grey piece on the wylex rewireables is asbestos, just ceramic I think? The asbestos is normally found in MEM/Bill/Simplex boards and generally resembles a woven cloth pad http://www.marstonenvironmentalservices.co.uk/pictures/gallery_1/item11/mid/0475.jpg and often a rope gasket around the lid on some items

The really old original wylex back plates that were moulded from brown plastic with a painted rim did have asbestos flash pads.

The newer back plates moulded from coloured plastic as per the OP do not contain asbestos.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Done some tidying up on this today, out of interest my previous house had the same small cu in the garage fed from a breaker on the house cu, though i'm unsure what the fuse rateings were. if such an arrangement is pointless

It's not pointless if the rating of the MCB in the main CU is a lot higher than the highest one in the garage CU.

then why would the builders (who prefer to keep costs down) have done it?

Because they are builders and not electricians?