Hook & band gate hinges - fitted correctly?

[chriselevate]

Hi,

I've replace an old gate with a new one and gone for some decent hook and band cranked hinges (galvanised) to do a quality job.

Only problem is that the gate keeps dropping and it's breaking the screws too.

Have I fitted it correctly or am I missing something? It seems odd and the hinges only have 2 screws in the bit that attached to the gate?! Is that right?

Here's the top hinge:

Here's the bottom hinge:

Here's the bolt I've fitted:

Thanks for your time and help

 

[JohnD]

did you intend to include photos?

//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=129539

 

[chriselevate]

Sorry... done. Couldn't do it on my phone. Apologies.
Feel free to delete this post and your last post now.

Thanks

 

[JohnD]

there should be a coach bolt through the square hole.

Your screws are presumably too small. Small bolts might last better. i use stainless for that kind of thing.

the braces would benefit from seating into pockets in the rails.

 

[chriselevate]

Oh right! So I need 2 coach bolts?

Are they easy to get the right size? Would somewhere like toolstation have what I need? I take it I drill the hole first and it goes right through to the other side?

Thanks for your help

 

[JohnD]

http://www.screwfix.com/search.do?fh_search=coach+bolts+stainless&fh_view_size=

get the thickest that will fit. The length has to go right through and accept a washer and nut on the far side

Also in the square holes of your bolt and hasp.

 

[chriselevate]

Great, thanks.

It's "stainless steel" that I need to avoid rusting I guess? I'm guessing that on the hinge, having these will take the weight of the wooden gate? I'm guessing that they will pull in tight when I use a spanner/socket on the other side of the door to tighten?

When you say to use on the bolt and hasp too, do you mean it will be harder to break in if I use them? I'm guessing they are fitted with a normal nut and nothing special to stop them being removed?

Again, how wide do I drill the hole to send the coach bolt through? Just normal HSS bits will be fine I guess?

Oh and how do I find out which "M" size the bolts will be? I guess I need the stainless washers and nylon nuts too? Or normal nuts?

Thanks again

 

[scbk]

Off the top of my head the hinge will use a m10 coachbolt and the padbolt will be an m6

The point of the coach bolts on the padbolt is so you can't just unscrew the wood screws and walk right in! BUT your's is mounted on the inside so it doesn't really matter


On the hinge band, the coachbolt takes all the weight, the screws are really only to keep it straight

If you're using strainless steel (s/s) bolts then you should also use s/s nuts and washers. There's no need for nyloc nuts

Personally I just use bog standard bzp fixings, which will probably outlast the gate, but I'm a cheapskate!


Use a drillbit the same size as the bolt, hss or wood drills will do

 

[gment]

Your Hinge pins are the wrong way around. The bottom one takes ALL of the weight so therefore must point upwards. The top one can go either way but by having it pointing down would prevent the gate from being lifted off the pin.

The coach bolts missing from the hinge (square holes) as mentioned is previous replies. By putting a bolt through it will tighten the brace around pin and reduce movement, and therefore excess stress whilst the gate is opened/closed.

 

[SimonH2]

Your Hinge pins are the wrong way around. The bottom one takes ALL of the weight so therefore must point upwards.

I'd respectfully disagree.
If both pins are pointing upwards, the weight will be taken by whichever pin happens to take the weight - if the gate fixings are closer together than the pins then that'll be the top pin, or vice-versa. If they were close to start with, then after a bit of wear, the load will end up getting shared.

However, I know it tends to be a convention to put the weight on the bottom pin. Hanging gates on the farm the top eye on metal gates was usually in a slot while the bottom eye wasn't - so it normally ended up with the weight on the bottom pin. With wooden gates it was a bit more random and depended a bit on how much the drill wandered while fitting the bands

Either way, the forces in the post are the same below the bottom hinge.