Plastering over Cavity Wall membrane

[mcampster]

We are having our basement waterproofed using a Cavity Membrane System (Delta). The defacto choice after that seems to be either metal track, plasterboard and skim, or stud work, plasterboard and skim.

We have a rather complex wall shape in our basement - chimney breasts sticking out, 225mm wall going to 400mm towards the lower half (concrete footings), splayed foundations/corbled footings etc.

Whilst I appreciate just studding it all out to be a perfect rectangle would be easier, it would waste quite a lot of valuable space.

Can anyone suggest any alternatives? I've been looking at the plasterboard with insulation already attached - dot and dab that onto the wall could be an easy way to follow ALL of the contours of the room. Whilst it would require a different Membrane from Delta, apparently it is possible. Can anyone see any pitfalls with this approach? What if I wanted to attach a TV to a wall? There would be no studs, just insulated plasterboard - could these take the weight?

Any advice very much appreciated.

thanks

Mark

 

[TheVictorian]

Why can't you stud it out around the shape of the room?

 

[mcampster]

Why can't you stud it out around the shape of the room?

I guess its possible, but it would certainly not be easy. You can't screw into the cavity membrane unless its into one of their special plugs. My understanding is these are put in place by the waterpoofing guys prior to fixing stud work, so plenty of scope for error.

I'm also thinking that labour and materials for this level of studwork may well be more than insulated plasterboard.

 

[Reeves2k2]

Why can't you stud it out around the shape of the room?

I guess its possible, but it would certainly not be easy. You can't screw into the cavity membrane unless its into one of their special plugs. My understanding is these are put in place by the waterpoofing guys prior to fixing stud work, so plenty of scope for error.

I'm also thinking that labour and materials for this level of studwork may well be more than insulated plasterboard.

Is it walls floor and ceiling they have applied the membrane to?

 

[mcampster]

Is it walls floor and ceiling they have applied the membrane to?

Not the ceiling. And there will be 65mm screed + 70mm insulation covering the floor membrane, so if thats of any use, I can screw stuff into that I guess.

Basement wall

• mcampster
• 22 Nov 2013
• 1

 

[Reeves2k2]

Either timber or metal stud it in that case

You only fix head and sole plate into floor and ceiling joists. No need to fix direct to the wall

Then stud/shape until your hearts content

I recently started using the metal framing and have been impressed so far with it.
It goes up like nobody's business but you do have to make sure you have the correct screws etc

But in answer you your op

Just bang some studding up board it with whatever boards you want and skim, jobs a good'n

 

[mcampster]

Either timber or metal stud it in that case

You only fix head and sole plate into floor and ceiling joists. No need to fix direct to the wall

Then stud/shape until your hearts content

I recently started using the metal framing and have been impressed so far with it.
It goes up like nobody's business but you do have to make sure you have the correct screws etc

But in answer you your op

Just bang some studding up board it with whatever boards you want and skim, jobs a good'n

So how would you get around a vertical change in shape, e.g the wall jutting out half way down? I can see how you can use this method to go around the shape of the room, but when the wall juts out like a shelf halfway down (see pic) how would you do this?

 

[Reeves2k2]

Either timber or metal stud it in that case

You only fix head and sole plate into floor and ceiling joists. No need to fix direct to the wall

Then stud/shape until your hearts content

I recently started using the metal framing and have been impressed so far with it.
It goes up like nobody's business but you do have to make sure you have the correct screws etc

But in answer you your op

Just bang some studding up board it with whatever boards you want and skim, jobs a good'n

So how would you get around a vertical change in shape, e.g the wall jutting out half way down? I can see how you can use this method to go around the shape of the room, but when the wall juts out like a shelf halfway down (see pic) how would you do this?

Method I mentioned only works if you can fix ceiling and sole plate and run continuous vertical studs in between.

I'm trying to think of an easy way in which you can get around what you want to do but I'm struggling at the mo

Did you specify any fix points when the membrane was installed?

Let me sleep on it and I'll have a think about it

The easy way as mentioned it just stud it out in front of all these alcoves and protrusions but I know you want to make use of the space

 

[mcampster]

Either timber or metal stud it in that case

You only fix head and sole plate into floor and ceiling joists. No need to fix direct to the wall

Then stud/shape until your hearts content

I recently started using the metal framing and have been impressed so far with it.
It goes up like nobody's business but you do have to make sure you have the correct screws etc

But in answer you your op

Just bang some studding up board it with whatever boards you want and skim, jobs a good'n

So how would you get around a vertical change in shape, e.g the wall jutting out half way down? I can see how you can use this method to go around the shape of the room, but when the wall juts out like a shelf halfway down (see pic) how would you do this?

Method I mentioned only works if you can fix ceiling and sole plate and run continuous vertical studs in between.

I'm trying to think of an easy way in which you can get around what you want to do but I'm struggling at the mo

Did you specify any fix points when the membrane was installed?

Let me sleep on it and I'll have a think about it

The easy way as mentioned it just stud it out in front of all these alcoves and protrusions but I know you want to make use of the space

The general advice seems to be stud it - timber or metal. But why not go down the dot and dab insulated plasterboard approach? That way I could follow all the alcoves and protrusions. I'm sensing that this comes with its own downfalls so just trying to understand what they are?

FYI the membrane can be laid with/without facing mesh, which allows dot and dab or render being applied directly. So I need to decide which route I am going to go down before they lay the membrane.

Cheers

Mark