Wiring a Danfoss RMT230 from a Danfoss RET230NSB

[screamer]

My dad has been papering the hall and he's taken off the faceplate on the thermostat for papering, now, when he clips it back on, the heating won't turn on.

I have a spare RET230 from my house, were wanting to wire it up to see if it is the thromostat or not.

230 connections are

4, 1, 3 and 2.


230 NSB are

N - grey
1 - brown
3 - black
L & 2 - Loop



cheers

 

[aesmith]

Wiring diagrams are on the Danfoss site ...
http://heating.danfoss.co.uk/PCMPDF/RET230 wiring.pdf
http://heating.danfoss.co.uk/PCMPDF/RET230NSB.pdf

It looks to me as if the RET230 connects power to terminal (3) to call for heat, whereas the NSB closes volt-free contacts between (2) and (3). That being the case if you're replacing an RET230NSB with a RET230 then the link between L and 2 wouldn't be needed.

Alternatively you could link L to 3 without the thermostat fitted to simulate the stat calling for heat.

Remember it's mains voltage on all these contacts.

 

[screamer]

Hi, thanks for the detailed reply, but, in my haste today with other things to do!! i mistyped the spare thromostat model number to be fitted for testing, apologies

it should be RMT230

wiring diagram
http://heating.danfoss.co.uk/PCMPDF/RMT230.pdf

RMT230 connections are

4, 1, 3 and 2.


UPDATE:

we've got the heating to ON, there doesn't seem to be any power to the lights on the front of this thermostat, when the thermostat is turned onto full (if this helps) ??

 

[swampy2]

The RMT230 has no light/neon built in

 

[screamer]

Swampy,

Thats correct, not sure if you've not followed me or not.

what were trying to do, is to fit a RMT230 in place of a RET230NSB


with the RET230NSB fitted,
there's hot water available.
there's a light on the timeswitch when we've set it to always on.
there is no neon lights illuminated on the room stat

if we fit the RMT230 and the heating works, then we'll either leave the RMT230 in place or buy another RET230NSB

 

[aesmith]

Alternatively you could link L to 3 without the thermostat fitted to simulate the stat calling for heat.

Remember it's mains voltage on all these contacts.

That would be the quickest test, if the heating comes on with those linked then you know your issue lies with the thermostat.

 

[screamer]

Alternatively you could link L to 3 without the thermostat fitted to simulate the stat calling for heat.

Remember it's mains voltage on all these contacts.

That would be the quickest test, if the heating comes on with those linked then you know your issue lies with the thermostat.

ok, all the wires are still connected on their original place, he's looped L to 3 and nothings happening

looks like we'll have to get a sparkie in.


cheers for all the advice on here

 

[aesmith]

If you have access to a tester, there are some more check you can do at the other end. Presumably there's a programmer or time-clock, and you want to be sure that's doing it's bit.

Programmer should be putting out a "Heating On" signal, which then runs through the thermostat to inhibit heat if it's not needed.

 

[screamer]

If you have access to a tester, there are some more check you can do at the other end. Presumably there's a programmer or time-clock, and you want to be sure that's doing it's bit.

Programmer should be putting out a "Heating On" signal, which then runs through the thermostat to inhibit heat if it's not needed.

we do have the mechanical timeclock to put on, its a Danfoss 103 which uses the same backplate as the 103E7, he's away to swap them over to see if it makes any difference, he'll also try the L & 3 loops as you suggested to see if that fires the boiler up.


update
hes tried the mechanical timeclock, tried the stat as normal and with it off with the L & 3 looped and still nothing.

 

[aesmith]

Ok, I'm a little bit blind as I don't know the details of your installation. If it was my own then I'd be looking to see firstly if the heating ON signal is being correctly made by the programmer. If so, next step to check or bypass the thermostat. What's next on your system? On mine the signal would now go to a 2 port valve, and it's the action of the valve opening that switches on the boiler and pump.

Tony S

 

[swampy2]

Do you have a tester to check for voltage at the stat?.
Has the heating worked since your dad removed the stat from its base for papering?.

 

[screamer]

hi, here's an update,

i phoned a guy i know who has is own sparkie business, he was leaving a job to come home, he popped into my dads house, he wasn't long there and he's confirmed it's the room stat, he's bypassed it until the one i've ordered comes, my dad just needs to operate the timeclock manually for now.

Thanks for all your help, appreciated.