Bathroom Wiring

[murphyabu]

Afternoon all, don't you just hate easter, all those adverts advising it's a great weekend to finish/start your next DIY project........ well i decided to try and finish some lighting so i could continue painting into the late hours but ive hit a problem......

I need some help/advice on a bathroom wiring circuit,

We moved into a house and the bathroom needed gutting and re plastering, to make safe for the plasterer i disconnected the downlights and pull cord and shaving socket.

The bathroom previously had 5 x GU10 Down Lights fitted and they were wired in a spider like format,

All the plastering is done now and i am trying to reinstate what was i previously undone however i am hitting a problem, i have decided to only fit four bathroom downlights and reconnected everything in what i believe to be the same manner as it was before and disconnected the spare legs of wiring which no longer go to a downlight.

Now when the power is turned back on the lights are very dim. NB: I have swapped out the old D/L for new ones and fitted them with LED GU10 bulbs this hasn't posed a problem anywhere else in the house where i have done it,

I have done a crude sketch of the wiring as it currently stands and could do with some advice/pointers as to where i may have gone wrong,

Thank you,

Untitled

• murphyabu
• 20 Apr 2014
• 1

 

[JohnW2]

I have done a crude sketch of the wiring as it currently stands and could do with some advice/pointers as to where i may have gone wrong,

I can see nothing wrong with what you've drawn (apart from the absence of 'earths', which I presume also exist!).

Have you checked all the connections - in particular, making sure that there is not somewhere where you have tightened a terminal screw onto insulation, rather than the copper conductor?

Kind Regards, John

 

[Taylortwocities]

Are these 230v LED downlights?
I don't suppose that there are 12v transformers trying to power those 230v LEDs?

Do you have a test meter? do you have 230v AC across L&N at the junction box point where the downlight connections all meet.?

 

[murphyabu]

Thank you for the swift reply chaps,

Yes Taylor they are all 230v LED Downlights,

Yes John the earths are there except where the legs run out to a downlight (D/L), there is no where to terminate the earth on the D/L

I think i will have to open up the junction boxes and double check the wiring, it is probably something as simple as that,

I was worried that maybe they should have been wired in series or parallel but that would seem a bit OTT for the amount of current being drawn,

Looks like i know what ill be spending tomorrow morning doing.....

 

[JohnW2]

Yes John the earths are there except where the legs run out to a downlight (D/L), there is no where to terminate the earth on the D/L

A common problem. Theoretically, one is meant to run an earth conductor to every point/accessory (and that would include the downlight), even if it doesn't need one - one of the arguments being that someone might one day change the light to one that does need an earth. Is there enough space in the downlight to slip in a little connector block to which you could attach the (currently unused) earth conductor?

I think i will have to open up the junction boxes and double check the wiring, it is probably something as simple as that, I was worried that maybe they should have been wired in series or parallel but that would seem a bit OTT for the amount of current being drawn,

No, as I said, your circuit (per your drawing) is fine (for 230V lamps!). I presume/suspect that you will find a 'poor connection' somewhere. Good luck!

Kind Regards, John

 

[Taylortwocities]

Another thought.

Is there a dimmer on the lights? You'll get all sorts of funny results if the dimmer is not compatible.

 

[murphyabu]

No dimmer Taylor, i have heard that dimmer technology/pricing is yet to catch up with LED technology,

I've just realised the battery door for my Kewtech 1700 is missing!!! Anyone know where i might get a replacement one? (I've sent Kewtech a grovelling email)

 

[sparkwright]

Another thought, is the cable supplying the junction box to the extreme left of the picture the same cable as originally used?

 

[murphyabu]

Hi spark, I believe it is,

The middle junction box I left in situ but disconnected the pull switch and the leg going to the third junction box to make safe all wiring into the bathroom.....

I'm hopeful it's going to be a schoolboy error along the lines of having a duff connection in one of the junction boxes.....

 

[Taylortwocities]

do you have 230v AC across L&N at the junction box point where the downlight connections all meet.?

 

[JohnW2]

do you have 230v AC across L&N at the junction box point where the downlight connections all meet.?

You're obviously right to remind the OP that you asked this question (and haven't yet had a reply) but, assuming everything we've been told is correct, I can but presume that the answer would have to be 'no'.

Kind Regards, John

 

[murphyabu]

Sorry John/Taylor,

As posted my voltage tester is missing the battery cage so i can't check the voltage yet in the down light junction box, once I have and I've checked the connections ill let you know.....

Thank you for all the pointers it's appreciated

 

[JohnW2]

Sorry John/Taylor, As posted my voltage tester is missing the battery cage so i can't check the voltage yet in the down light junction box, once I have and I've checked the connections ill let you know.....

Oh, I see - you appeared to just be saying that the cover of the battery compartment was missing, not the entire 'battery cage'. I look forward to hearing what inspection of the connections reveals.

Kind Regards, John

 

[murphyabu]

Sussed it,

There was one duff connection, rewired it and everything's working perfectly,

Thanks gents,

 

[JohnW2]

Sussed it, There was one duff connection, rewired it and everything's working perfectly, Thanks gents,

You're welcome. Glad it's sorted, and thanks for the update.

Kind Regards, John