Halogen downlight changed to LED . . . . . . . . . .

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Hi Folks, after much research I have changed one of the Halogen MR16 (GU5.3) downlights in the kitchen where the transformer had gone, to a GU10 5W LED downlight. If successful I'll change all of them.

It seems to simple too be true and I would just like to check if there is anything else I should consider.

Transformer and old Halogen connector removed, Mains now goes in to a connector junction and new LED connectors comes from that straight to the bulb. New bulb fits in the old unit, job done.

Is it really that straight forward? I will call in an electrician if I need to but do I need to?

See before / after photos.

View media item 87894 View media item 87895
Many thanks.
 
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The downlight should be earther now it has 230v going to it.

Having said that, some of the ridiculously flimsy fortuoutous connection to earth on some GU10 downlights renders it, in my opinion, almost pointless anyway!
 
An earth is only needed if this is a requirement of the downlight fitting.

Most GU10 downlights are Class II (double insulated) and do not require an earth. Fitting an earth to a Class II device adds danger.
 
So does, perhaps, putting 230V into a light which was designed for 12V.

And for something made to work off a 12V SELV supply would the concept of Class II, DI etc even have existed at design stage? Perhaps the light is neither designed to be earthed nor designed to not be.

Salad - do you know (and if so how do you know) with certainty that is is safe at 230V?
 
do you have a picture of the lampholder you used.
Is it fixed in or just floating

Afaik there are new rules applying to the manufacture of these holders.
I think mainly arose due to the amount of people doing similar conversions like yourself.

A lot of these GU10 holders where desighned to be securely fixed in a fitting, rather than floating.

Theres a new breed that has cable restraint AND additional cable insulation more designed for floating applications.
However theres not always room inside the housing of fittings like yours to accomadate them
 
So does, perhaps, putting 230V into a light which was designed for 12V. ... And for something made to work off a 12V SELV supply would the concept of Class II, DI etc even have existed at design stage? Perhaps the light is neither designed to be earthed nor designed to not be.
Indeed. In fact, isn't anything used at LV which has exposed-conductive parts classed as Class I by default - i.e. it has to be treated as Class I unless it has been designed to be, and marked as, Class II?

Kind Regards, John
 
And if it was designed for SELV will there be anywhere to attach a cpc and ensure that all of it is adequately earthed?

For the sake of a few quid I'd not risk it.
 
And if it was designed for SELV will there be anywhere to attach a cpc and ensure that all of it is adequately earthed? For the sake of a few quid I'd not risk it.
That would undoubtedly be the right advice to give to a third party, particularly a 'stranger' - but I would imagine that you would be more than capable of making a reasonable judgement as to whether or not it were possible to attach a CPC in such a manner that "all of it would be adequately earthed".

Kind Regards, John
 
We'll never know.

For if I had them, I'd be removing them, not tinkering with the lamp type.
 

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