Underfloor heating problem
- Thread starter rb1980
- Start date
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You need proper kit and chemicals. Just because water is clear doesn't mean it isn't blocked. It solidifies (during summer season) and is difficult to budge!
You may be able to hire kit? Not sure. But it's quite a task and experience gets the best results... Better to do the whole system whilst there! Not cheap but unless you can get a pro to identify on site what else might be the cause, I can't think of any other solution.
You could try sticking a bottle of cleaner in yourself and letting it circulate for a week or two, then drain down, refill and see if that has shifted it!
You may be able to hire kit? Not sure. But it's quite a task and experience gets the best results... Better to do the whole system whilst there! Not cheap but unless you can get a pro to identify on site what else might be the cause, I can't think of any other solution.
You could try sticking a bottle of cleaner in yourself and letting it circulate for a week or two, then drain down, refill and see if that has shifted it!
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Get the strongest you can.
Speak to your local plumbing shop. Sentinel and fernox are popular brands. If you get decent results (dirty water on drain down), then consider a second treatment, it can't hurt and might do the job. Inhibitor needs to be added after final refill if it works!
Glad you found my posts useful
Speak to your local plumbing shop. Sentinel and fernox are popular brands. If you get decent results (dirty water on drain down), then consider a second treatment, it can't hurt and might do the job. Inhibitor needs to be added after final refill if it works!
Glad you found my posts useful
Well, to get the most out of the cleaner you could make sure that only those two UFH zones are open to the primary circuit for at least a day and nothing else and add it to the circuit using a dosing kit. You need to identify a suitable entry point for your system just into that circuit would be best!
Have you left he heating on in those cold rooms for a long time? If the flow and return temps get close to each other it means the floor is no longer exchanging heat with the water, at 10 degrees you are still getting a heat exchange and is still warming the floor. A thick screed will take a few hours to heat up and maybe even longer for the room temp to be noticeable. Sounds obvious but there isn't a lot to go wrong if it has worked previously.
Exactly... Apart from sediments (magnatite) previously held in solution/suspension, in system water, during "heating" season, being deposited and concreting at lowest point of system, during "summer" season, when zone is closed and there is no flow!
Treatment with a cleaning agent (& ultimately a power flush) aims to erode concretions and dissolve them back into a solution (through chemical action and hydraulic pressure/flow) whereby the particles are, once again, carried along in the system water and can be removed with it, at a suitable drain off point.
Think of a stream, reducing to a trickle in summer and depositing its load at various points. Then, during wetter seasons, the flow again becomes a torrent and picks the material back up and carries it away.
In the UK, this obviously occurs on a weekly, rather than seasonal basis
New Carpet in effected room, new underlay? it could be that the underlay and Carpet have too high a TOG rating to allow the heat to penetrate through and heat the room! you are getting a flow rate through the circuit, so I don't see what else it could be!
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