Radiator temp after new plastering? (& other plaster queries - scratches etc).

[Mr. Clueless]

Radiator Temperature's:

We've had our living room & hall plastered. Some were ceiling to floor other walls were blended in. The ceiling to floor walls were dot+dab plasterboarded whereas the others weren't.

I'm aware dehumidifiers & sweltering heat is a bad thing but i just wanted to ask about how high a temp/hot should the rads be? All 3 rads are hung on walls that have been plastered (not boarded).

Right now i have all 3 on about 1.5 setting, maybe 2 but no more than that. The stat is set to 16c.

Scratches on New & Old Plaster:

I don't know how it's happened but it's happened - there's scratches appeared on the plaster where it's been blended in.
If they'll all paint out & be hidden then i don't really mind but if they're going to show through paint then it's obviously a problem.
These are close up photos. I can get shots at distance if required.
Q1) Will these lightly sand out?
Q2) Would you expect any of this to show through paintwork as it currently stands?

This just looks like a different colour plaster but when you feel it it dips a bit

This is it whilst standing against the opposite wall...

There's a smaller one on the other wall...

Then there's the scratches around where it's been blended in...

They just look like lines in the photo but they're actually grooves...

The vast majority of the walls are (in my opinion) perfectly fine. It's just these areas that i am wondering about. I'd like the option of wallpaper and paint, not just wallpaper.


Dot & Dab:

I appreciate the dabs will take longer to dry out than the rest of the plaster on that wall. I just ask how much longer? (approx of course).
I was also told (not by those who did the work) that when it gets cold, even when they have dried out, that the circles can re-appear. Is this correct?
With everywhere these days having plasterboarded walls & so many with the dot&dab method, surely there isn't 1000s & 1000s of people up & down the land with circle patches all over their walls?

 

[stevethespreader]

The circles could come back they can come back as cold spots or damp spots, that's a bad job you have there all the scratches and dips should be filled with easifill once mist coated also that's a bad dot and dab job you have you shouldn't see the joints of the plasterboard grinning through like that ,also because u can see the joints you can see they haven't staggard the boards you have a joint go all the way across the wall and I'm wondering if those boards are level because of the joints

 

[Mr. Clueless]

Thanks for the reply.

So you would easifill after the mist coat then & not before? I would've thought you'd sort out these scratches & dints & such before painting, not after it?

As for seeing where the board has been laid out, we had a different company who did the ceiling & you can see the same on there, i thought it was normal & something that painting would take care of? Should you not see where the board has been placed at all?

If it makes any difference whatsoever then this job is between 1 & 2 weeks old.

 

[stevethespreader]

Mist coat, then snag then another mist coat then top coat if your boards are not straight no amount of paint will make it look right are there any deviations on the boards? At the joints? Give them a feel and run a straight edge over the wall on the joints fwiw go to my profile albums you can see a 100m2 ceiling I done at SFC training ground in step by step detail with no joints showing through anywhere, where the boarders had done their job properly and I followed suit by covering the scrim then 2 good coats , was the boards that were dot and dabbed tapered? By the looks of it they wasent, sure your paint will cover joints but if boards are not straight it will look awful, also its not wise to have one joint go all they way across the wall

 

[Mr. Clueless]

The boards were SE not TE.

You can't feel the fibatape on the joints - it's smooth.

There are areas on the wall that do dip. If you put a perfectly straight plank on it for example there will be dips in areas but not huge ones. We're not talking inches.

Hope this helps.

 

[stevethespreader]

Well best you can do is mist coat the walls this will highlight the areas to be snagged also it seals the wall at the same time, get some fine grit and rub down the easifill then give a second mist coat which will seal the easifill then top coat job done tbh I wouldent be happy if that was my wall

 

[Mr. Clueless]

I've just realised -

I got too interested in how you're supposed to board & just realised the question remains about radiators & how hot I should have them.

I don't know how hot I can have them without risking cracking the plaster.

 

[stevethespreader]

I've just realised -

I got too interested in how you're supposed to board & just realised the question remains about radiators & how hot I should have them.

I don't know how hot I can have them without risking cracking the plaster.

First time some ones asked how high to have the radiator MF is not designed for applications over 49c so work it from there tbh most people just use the rads at any temp they want and seems to be fine

 

[Mr. Clueless]

Ha i like to be unique
I only ask because my mother slapped the dehumidifier on all day every day when she had her stair wall plastered.
Ok it's not heat but it is drying the thing out (too quickly) which a stack of heat would surely do.

And that is why i asked

 

[stevethespreader]

I have seen a few jobs where the plaster has crazed around the rads where its dried out to quickly by them using the rads I wouldn't switch them on until the plasters gone pink