Nightmare

There are two ways to wire lights, either you can follow the old British method of taking the supply from ceiling rose to ceiling rose then running from the ceiling rose to light switch, or the European way of wiring light switch to light switch with supply and then taking a cable from light switch to ceiling rose. Both have plus and minus for method, and you can mix them.

With the British system the earth loop impedance is better, you can fit emergency lights easily, you can fit independent ceiling fans easily, however harder to fit European light fittings and you have no neutral at the light switch.

There are also some wireless options, you can get units which can replace the ceiling rose which can be used to switch on lights from a remote control, which can look like a standard light switch, so you could get away without any drops to switches, however they are expensive, it is cheaper to hard wire.

So step one with any rewire is design, the electrician has to talk to client and agree how it is to be done, there is no one size fits all. As already said the existing conduit may be unsuitable, however it also may be OK, until some one gets on site and looks they will not know. Surface trunking is the easy way, however there are some new rules about where it crosses door ways and using metal retainers in case of fire to stop wires falling on the firemen fighting the fire.

When an electrician looks at the job he will consider door crossings and may alter his design slightly to comply with amendment 3, I have not got amendment 3 I am now retired, but I know it exists and if I was going to work again I would buy a copy. Because I don't have a copy I can't actually say what difference it will make to the design.

I also had a situation where mothers house I knew needed a re-wire, she was in hospital and I knew it would need completing before she came home, although I could rewire myself, I had to consider the time it would take and the cost of replacing my test equipment which had failed, plus in Wales the cost of Part P notification. So I engaged a firm to rewire for me, who had 2 people every day on the job and flooded it with 8 people on last day to complete it, they also had the tools to chase walls and were able to inspect and test and issue all the required paperwork. It did cost more than DIY but really not that much more once one considers the equipment I did not need to buy.

Before the rewire I walked around with the electrician agreeing what should be done, little things like no light half way up the stairs, but two lights on the landing one which would shine down the stairs, this is all part of the design, because of wood cladding on the stairs it would have been hard to get wires to lights.

So I would say start point is get an electrician to look at the problem and give you a quote, two things, one it may not be as expensive as you think, and two he may suggest a method we having not been on site have not considered. Once you have had an electrician around then you will be in a better position if you decide to DIY. Do consider the cost of paying the council their fees, it can work out rather expensive if they will not allow you to inspect and test yourself, they can insist that an electrical firm does the inspecting and testing, but then you don't get the installation certificate you only get a completion certificate. So you could end up handing the council £500 for nothing, that is a huge lump towards getting some one in to do it.

Do look at these they are expensive but may help,
LMEST1A.JPG
at £40 plus not cheap and personally I would hard wire, but in your design you also have to consider decoration in the rooms, to me wall paper is a nightmare, and I have not fitted sockets to one wall simply because it would need repapering after.

The on site guide does not tell you all you need to know, but goes a good way towards it, if you do go down the DIY route then you really should buy one.
 
The trunking idea is a good one if you can stand the council house/public building look (I know you were decorating to make it look better though)
I can't draw a diagram now but you need 1.0mm t%e from the cu to each light fittings in turn(or switch if it's easier), then from each light fitting to its switch. If the switching is two way you'll need 3 core and earth between the two switches.
Sockets you'll need 2.5mm t&e from the cu to each socket in turn and back, or you could do half the sockets with each separate t&e and use a lower protective device.
Many variations on the above are possible, the main thing is the minimum cable sizes, so push back if you want to do it a different way.
Then if you have any other circuits let us know.
Ideally you'd have 2 lighting circuits on different RCDs but that's so far away on the list of priorities here!
Good luck, let us know if you need anything else.(y)
Any someone else will be along in a minute to point out anything I missed:p
 
Other than advise a complete rewire done by a Professional , IMO it would be dangerous to give this poster any tips on how to bodge the wiring up !
By stating that the lighting ended in a wooden Installation box gives a very good indication as to the age of the wiring.
It also appears to me that the wiring is only twin wiring no Earth .
 
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Thanks both Eric and JohnD v2.0

Here are some photos of inside the light fitting:


IMG_20170330_133825.jpg


IMG_20170330_131255.jpg


So there appear to be three holes in this metal filament/type which I haven't remove yet. So I'm not sure it's quite clear from the picture but there are six wires coming through and 3 are tapped off.

This is a photo of inside the pull cord (3 wires total) :

IMG_20170330_133717.jpg


I gave the pull cord wires a little nudge and saw a fair amount of movement in the light switch wires.

I'm waiting on a friend of a friend to come round who is a electrican and give me some advice before doing anything, and to those that are helping me get there I appreciate the help a lot. The most important thing right now is to have the wires chased so I can close up the room.

I'll post photos of any progress. In the mean time I have to move on because I'm not able to move ahead with this at the moment.

Also, to Bosswhite, I suggest when you don't know how to do something you post a question asking for help so I can be equally as unhelpful and horrible to you. In order to learn you have to start somewhere and I question the mentality of someone who gets something out of going on the internet just to trash someone to the ground. You go and get a life and that goes for anyone else likeminded.
 
Also, to Bosswhite, I suggest when you don't know how to do something you post a question asking for help so I can be equally as unhelpful and horrible to you. In order to learn you have to start somewhere and I question the mentality of someone who gets something out of going on the internet just to trash someone to the ground. You go and get a life and that goes for anyone else likeminded.
The problem is that you don't (or didn't) seem to be listening to all the people telling you that a total rewire of the entire property is probably required as a matter of extreme urgency, and that there is nothing whatsoever which you should do to those lighting cables.
 
I note your last comment.

You have asked for advice, judging by the photos of the wiring involved it is well past its "best Buy" date,

So my advice is to have the wiring replaced, you also mention this is part of a flat, so you have a responsibility to others that live in the property

If this is the general standard of wiring at the moment no amount of bodging it will make it safer and comply with present day Electrical Standards. So there is a strong possibility that any Insurance Cover on your Flat will be null and void.
That is the risk you take .

img_20170330_133717-jpg.118388
 
How is the ceiling constructed? I.e. solid concrete or wooden? If wooden which way do the joists above run?
Were both the pull cord switch and the wall-mounted switch operating the light? Do you want to maintain that arangement?
 
How is the ceiling constructed? I.e. solid concrete or wooden? If wooden which way do the joists above run?
Were both the pull cord switch and the wall-mounted switch operating the light? Do you want to maintain that arangement?

Hi mate, solid concrete and a lot of steels.

Basically the pull cord is above a bed and so the light can be turned off without having to go to the door. There are no other overhead fittings in the room. The arrangement is fine and I'd like to maintain it.
 
I note your last comment.

You have asked for advice, judging by the photos of the wiring involved it is well past its "best Buy" date,

So my advice is to have the wiring replaced, you also mention this is part of a flat, so you have a responsibility to others that live in the property

If this is the general standard of wiring at the moment no amount of bodging it will make it safer and comply with present day Electrical Standards. So there is a strong possibility that any Insurance Cover on your Flat will be null and void.
That is the risk you take .

img_20170330_133717-jpg.118388

That's really not the impression I get and I think you know it's not. Parroting the same thing over and over does not offer anything new. No I don't have a lot of experience with existing electrics other than to change like for like. For this reason I wouldn't know the extent of the state of these wires or why they can't be repaired but I want to know what is wrong and I'm committed to getting it right. Unfortunately I've not had a great deal of support with my career choices and of the education I have had has been of a poor standard, or has turned out to be irrelevant. For this reason I am mostly self taught. I have taken on a full scale strip out and refurbishment of a victorian property and turned that over with success but that was starting anew with everything. That property required 2 full installations and so with the support of an electrican friend we ran the cables and he did all the important connections. I picked up a lot from those few weeks but the lighting is something I still haven't grasped.

I think you should be more supportive of people trying to learn and it's not fair to tell other people not to help me when I am willing to learn. This does not mean me 'bodging' the job. Need I repeat that I will not be doing this job on my own I am getting help. Yes my tone started off a little different because I didn't know until getting feedback the true state of the electrics; perhaps why I was a little flippant at the beginning.

Anyway, it will be Thursday now so I'm working on the joinery in preparation and this gives me some time to buy a new light fitting and to try and find a georgian brass pull cord switch to match the other fittings and fixtures in the room.

You don't now need to post again to repeat the same thing.
 
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And the "R" in "VIR" stands for ...... ?
yes but that rubber has like a cloth overcoat, often when you strip it out although the terminations have crumbled, further back under the cloth is generally serviceable albeit temporary.
I do believe there was a plain rubber cable that is even older, lots of Vir is still in use .
 
How is the ceiling constructed? I.e. solid concrete or wooden? If wooden which way do the joists above run?
Were both the pull cord switch and the wall-mounted switch operating the light? Do you want to maintain that arangement?

Sorry not to ask initially ende, do you have any suggestions for a better design?
 
On a positive note it does not look like slip conduit but 3/4 barrel, this is similar set up in shops etc.
It can often be rewired in singles including an earth, one of the holes in the light box will loop to the next room.
Them wires are probably not capped off but possibly Joins in two cables.
A true loop in system you would see the wires come out one hole and go back up the other.
The trick is to pull out the old wires and tie on a draw wire, then use the draw wire to pull the new singles in.
T and E cable is not really suitable
 
You don't now need to post again to repeat the same thing.

OK, then, I will.

I think you should be more supportive of people trying to learn and it's not fair to tell other people not to help me when I am willing to learn.
As I said, the problem was that you did not seem to accept just what a parlous state your electrics are in. Or at least the parts you've shown us; yes, it's possible that the rest is fine, but I wouldn't bet much on that.

If you're willing to learn, wrt this, then what you need to learn is how to rewire an entire house from scratch, because that is what may need to be done. And you do not have time to learn all that you would need to know - you cannot put off getting the work done.


Anyway, it will be Thursday now so I'm working on the joinery in preparation and this gives me some time to buy a new light fitting and to try and find a georgian brass pull cord switch to match the other fittings and fixtures in the room.
That's probably premature.

You cannot do anything with the existing wiring you have shown us. You cannot extend it, you cannot replace any accessories or lights, you cannot even touch it until you are at the point, with new reels of cable, tools for chasing walls and ceilings, capping/conduit as appropriate if you want or need those, etc to hand. And the same may well go for the rest of the installation.

You have seen how those cables are snapping, and the insulation is just crumbling away - for all you know every single bit of wire in your house is like that. Just taking off switches or sockets to have a look could cause catastrophic failure of the wiring so that you're then in a house with no power until the rewire is finished.

The lighting circuit that that room is on should be left switched off, and preparations for a total rewire put into place, with all tools and materials acquired, before you do anything to any other part of any of the other circuits. Maybe you won't need to rip everything out, but you could so easily and quickly pass the point of no return that it would be very imprudent to not be able to start ripping everything out and replacing it the moment you decide to see what state the rest is in.
 

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