You don't seem to always do that, as per:You calculate the size of the cable required and use that size.
Perhaps that has contributed to the fact that some people think it is necessary and required.FYI, a lot of us just fit 1.5 as a default.
You don't seem to always do that, as per:You calculate the size of the cable required and use that size.
Perhaps that has contributed to the fact that some people think it is necessary and required.FYI, a lot of us just fit 1.5 as a default.
That would be the sensible/'proper' course, but it seems that an awful lot of people don't do it - since I imagine that it would be pretty rare (in any 'ordinary' house) for that calculation to indicate that 1.0mm² cable was not adequate, yet it quite often gets installed. As you go on to say ...
... and, as above, it seems that you are far from alone. When you say "as a default", I presume you mean that they just install 1.5mm² cable, without any consderation of whether or not 1.0mm² would have been adequate?
Kind Regards, John
You don't seem to always do that, as per:
Perhaps that has contributed to the fact that some people think it is necessary and required.
That's obviously the correct process (whether or not the installer is a qualified electrician). So why ....Point 1 - As a qualified electrician, I follow the cable calc process as standard practice. As you say in domestic installs, 1.0 is fit for purpose.
FYI, a lot of us just fit 1.5 as a default.
I'm a bit confused - are you saying that the "lot of us" you referred to above does not include yourself?Personally, I fit 1.0 in most cases but am happy using 1.5 if i have some available.
You are very probably right (although I have occasionally seen or heard 'qualified electricians' exhibiting less knowledge and understanding than the OP has in this thread) but, nevertheless, one really should not 'assume'!My answer was to the original poster, who I assume is not a qualified electrician.
I would agree using simple mV/A/m it is reasonable easy, however once one starts to correct the mV/A/m then I would say rather complex, to install using simple maths is OK, however to criticise some one else's install one has to be sure so you have to use the correction, this was why I built the java script program, at the time I was worried about doing EICR and not highlighting a volt drop problem which is latter highlighted and having a claim for any work required to correct it.Not the full calc, but experience tells us most domestic lighting circuits could be wired in 1.0. If I see a CF is in play, I'll run through the calc. It's not difficult maths.
My answer was to the original poster, who I assume is not a qualified electrician.
Measure R2.However once I had built the program it became apparent the meters used to measure the loop impedance are not accurate enough, press the test button three times any you get three different readings.
That's not the debate. We are querying your results.The debate on this thread as to if the design current should be 6 amp or some lower figure
Possibly true, but it is you who always raises the subject.With the length of cable needed to get just 6.9 volt drop, in real terms it is very unlikely that you will ever get to the point where a light failure is blamed on volt drop due to cable length.
No, it isn't.I see a small problem in using 1.5 mm² as in the main triple and earth cable is 1 mm²
Does that matter considering the OPD probably used?so using 1.5 mm² means a change in the current carrying capacity of the cable so much easier to use 1 mm² everywhere.
Does "uproarious" mean that it created an uproar? If so, I'm not surprised. Were those also the days of 6mm², or even 10mm², cooker circuits??When I was an apprentice (mid- late 80's) , everybody in the house-bashing trade was using 1,5. I could not see why and when I said I would use 1,0 my suggestion was uproarious.
Indeed - and immersion circuits etc.. I don't think anyone has suggested otherwise.1.5 cable is useful if you want a dedicated socket for your fridge, or a separate circuit for your boiler....
I suspect that, under current regs, most people just apply common sense about that. However, if it remains per draft, the 18th ed. will allow 'lighting circuits to supply "associated small power-using equipment"..... or if you want to "power" things from your lighting circuit (according to the regs a lighting circuit doesn't power things so can be <1.5mm2)
Uproarious: provoking loud laughter.Does "uproarious" mean that it created an uproar?
Lastly, anybody lying in a bath to relax will not thank you for installing that type of lighting.
I fully agree with you here, however... What type of light fitting would be more appropriate, and not look rubbish in a modern bathroom? This is a genuine question, not least because I'm about to get a new bathroom fitted in my house, after spending many years living in "trendy" city centre flats with annoying downlighters in the bathroom. Annoying downlighters everywhere in fact.
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