Kitchen grid switch and socket

[jimjones235]

In a kitchen we currently have a frigefreezer running off an unswitched socket, with one of those multi appliance grid switches on the other side of the room which turns the power to the socket on/off. We want to install a dishwasher next to the fridge, but it will need power, there are no other power outlets near except for the one being used for the fridge.

My thinking is that the grid switch is wired into the ring (or on a separate circuit straight back to the consumer unit), and each switch simply controls a spur going off to each appliance socket, is that right? On the basis that each appliance is fused in their plug anyway (so the spur itself doesn't need to be fused).

An easy solution for the dishwasher situation would be convert the fridge socket to a double socket and run both the fridge and the dishwasher from here. I can see two issues with this, I'll need to check the cable thickness to the socket from grid switch - if it's 2.5mm then I think the cable should be fine - if it's 1.5mm might the dishwasher and fridge overload the cable? Secondly, what's the regs take on running both appliances from one switch, I know each needs to be isolatable, but isolating them both together doesn't seem too whacky to me. Thoughts?

 

[JohnW2]

My thinking is that the grid switch is wired into the ring (or on a separate circuit straight back to the consumer unit), and each switch simply controls a spur going off to each appliance socket, is that right? On the basis that each appliance is fused in their plug anyway (so the spur itself doesn't need to be fused).

That sounds about right.

An easy solution for the dishwasher situation would be convert the fridge socket to a double socket and run both the fridge and the dishwasher from here. I can see two issues with this, I'll need to check the cable thickness to the socket from grid switch - if it's 2.5mm then I think the cable should be fine - if it's 1.5mm might the dishwasher and fridge overload the cable?

If buried directly in a wall or surface mounted, 1.5mm² can carry 20A. Some might express concern about such a cable only being 'protected' by 2 x13A fuses (in the plugs), hence potentially 26A total protection, but I personally would not be concerned. I would have thought that the chances are that it is 2.5mm² cable, anyway.

Secondly, what's the regs take on running both appliances from one switch, I know each needs to be isolatable, but isolating them both together doesn't seem too whacky to me. Thoughts?

There is actually no regulatory requirement for any local isolation, so I see no (regulatory) problem with that. It might, however, be a bit inconvenient to have to kill the fridge if, for whatever reason, the DW has to be 'isolated'!

Kind Regards, John

 

[jimjones235]

It might, however, be a bit inconvenient to have to kill the fridge if, for whatever reason, the DW has to be 'isolated'!

Thanks - Don't think that's a biggie - the socket is accessible anyway (behind the fridge at shoulder waist height)

 

[JohnW2]

Thanks - Don't think that's a biggie - the socket is accessible anyway (behind the fridge at shoulder waist height)

Fair enough.

What is "shoulder waste waist height"?

Kind Regards, John
Edit: Work of brain in 'predictive text'/phonetic mode corrected!

 

[Taylortwocities]

What is "shoulder waste height"?

Maybe it’s when you dispose of a joint of lamb over a fence?

 

[JohnW2]

Maybe it’s when you dispose of a joint of lamb over a fence?

Whoops!

Corrected.

Kind Regards, John

 

[winston1]

It might, however, be a bit inconvenient to have to kill the fridge if, for whatever reason, the DW has to be 'isolated'!

Kind Regards, John

The best dishwasher isolation is to pull its plug. Won't kill the fridge either.

 

[JohnW2]

The best dishwasher isolation is to pull its plug. Won't kill the fridge either.

The OP has already made that point. When I commented, I wasn't sure how accessible the plug/socket would be.

Kind Regards, John