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Hi guys, First post so be kind!

My boiler is a Worcester Greenstar 28i Junior.

The problem is as the title says, Central Heating is fully working but come to turn the taps on and no hot water.

With the CH off, the DHW starts of warmish and the goes ice cold.
with CH on, DHW comes out hotter than warm but not enough to burn yourself.

I've read that the most likely culprit is the Diverter Valve, so I'm just looking for some advice on how easy this is change. I'm not scared of some DIY, I've changed the pressure vessel before (It took all day and had to come of the wall) so I don't mind getting my hands dirty.

Just hoping its an easy fix and some help would go a long way, Cheers guys!
 
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How ever competent you feel you are unless you are a qualified heating engineer or at least have previous experience working with engineers on gas appliances and even then I’d strongly recommend not working on your boiler. I’ve seen something’s in my time and would hate to hear someone had to come to harm from a silly mistake made. There is a saying I’m sure you’ve heard of “ a little knowledge can be dangerous” I can’t believe you actually removed your boiler from the wall at one point.
There is a sticky on this forum from 2004 I believe it says Gas Safe say you can work on gas appliances yourself,in your home if you are deemed competent. I’m pretty sure this has been changed and no longer stands. Please take that in to mind andcthe safety of others.
 
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Forum Rules state that we're not allowed to give advice on here which might lead to DIY gas work, which includes both work on the gas and also the flue system. On your particular boiler, removing the front cover disturbs the flue system by breaking the room seal, and the 26.9 checks must then be carried out before the boiler can be operated again.
 
Forum Rules state that we're not allowed to give advice on here which might lead to DIY gas work, which includes both work on the gas and also the flue system. On your particular boiler, removing the front cover disturbs the flue system by breaking the room seal, and the 26.9 checks must then be carried out before the boiler can be operated again.
I’ll be honest I don’t even like telling customers to top up the pressure on their own boilers. It can cause all types of problems if done incorrectly.
 
OK I’ll bite.
What deems me a qualified engineer? What makes you think I’m qualified?
 
How ever competent you feel you are unless you are a qualified heating engineer or at least have previous experience working with engineers on gas appliances and even then I’d strongly recommend not working on your boiler. I’ve seen something’s in my time and would hate to hear someone had to come to harm from a silly mistake made.
You portray yourself as a qualified heating engineer as well as a RGI?
Are you?
No malice intended just asking that’s all.
 

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